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new 79 tique

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    Posted: October-16-2021 at 11:49pm
Picked up a 1979 Ski tique with a commander 302 with a 4 barrel holley carb for a school project. Boat needs a tune, floors are actually solid, carpet too. Thinking it needs new coil and distributor, it started right up the other day, i tried it today and all im getting is a clicking sound coming from what i believe is the distributor/coil. Any ideas? thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2021 at 12:13am
or maybe a new cap? its really corroded so maybe the connection is being interupted?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2021 at 8:11am
The distributor or coil shouldn't really be clicking

With somebody turning the key for you, check to see if the clicking is from the solenoid/relay mounted on the back of the engine, for the starter 

If your battery is low or you have bad connections you can get that clicking of the solenoid.

If that's the case, charge the battery and clean your connections at the battery, the solenoid and the negative cable connection to the engine block as a place to start.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2021 at 12:37pm
Had someone turn her over for me and I still believe that it’s coming from the distributor/coil area, nothing coming from the solenoid. It only clicks when I turn the key all the way off. Very confusedSleepy 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2021 at 1:28pm
I'm a little confused too I guess Wink

When you turn the key to Start, does the engine turn over with the starter or just click from wherever?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2021 at 7:50am
Just getting a click, no turning over. Cleaned all of the connections for the solenoid, starter, coil, and cap and still no luck, gonna charge the battery when i get home from school today and see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bwinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2021 at 10:33am
Can you turn the motor over with a big ratchet/socket on the crankshaft bolt? May be seized? If you can turn it over by hand then jump the two terminals on the starter with a screwdriver or the like and see if it cranks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2021 at 11:39am
Originally posted by reed462 reed462 wrote:

Just getting a click, no turning over. Cleaned all of the connections for the solenoid, starter, coil, and cap and still no luck, gonna charge the battery when i get home from school today and see what happens.

Don't forget to clean your battery terminals also, sounds like it could be a bad battery connection.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2021 at 7:44am
You did check oil levels and quality before this initial start up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2021 at 11:43am
Yes, Oil is good and tranny fluid has a solid red color, no milk. Was just going to test my little fix on the float bowls and idle adjustment and was baffled when i got nothing after turning the key.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2022 at 1:20pm
So the only way the boat will turn over is when it’s in gear. I get that clicking sound from the distributor area when I leave throttle in neu, when I throw it in fwd it turns right over but doesn’t start. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2022 at 2:46pm
There is a neutral safety switch on the transmission and it needs to tell the boat it is in neutral or it will not turn over at all.  Sometimes you need to jiggle the shift lever to make sure it is in neutral to make it spin the engine when you turn the key.  Once it is fully in neutral pull the shift button out locking it in neutral and allowing you to now use the throttle without engaging the tranny.   
It sounds like your tranny shift linkage may not be in sync with your throttle linkage.  You could just disconnect the tranny shifter cable at the transmission and leave it loose until you sort this out.  Manually shift the tranny into the center lock position, you can feel the ball detents engage at Forward, Neutral and Reverse.  Test all three and make sure it is seated in neutral.  Then try your key, the engine should spin.

 As far as your clicking sound, are you sure the dist cap is properly seated and the rotor inside is not hitting the cap as it turns?  There is not much there than can click.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2022 at 8:19pm
thank you for that info, tomorrow ill disconnect the cable from the trans and play around with the lever, ive fiddled with the lever on the trans before and there is some play in the nuetral gear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2022 at 9:21am
If the engine turns over but won't start when you have it in forward (because of cable adjustment issues like mentioned above), if you adjust the cable correctly, then you'll have an engine that turns over in neutral but still won't start.

You seem to have 2 unrelated issues, first the neutral safety switch/shift cable adjustment and second an ignition issue since when it's turning over, it won't start. 

When it's turning over, have you checked for spark?

You seem pretty adamant that the noise is from the distributor, so what's under the cap, points or an electronic conversion?

What brand is the distributor?

You've also said that the engine isn't turning over when you hear the clicking, so it wouldn't be anything like the rotor hitting the terminals in the cap since nothing is turning.

I'd straighten out the shift cable adjustment first, then replace whatever you have under the cap along with the cap. That would be the points, condenser, rotor and cap or if electronic it would be the module, rotor and cap.

If there are points under there, have you tried cleaning and adjusting them?

PS ............you've e mailed me pictures before (your broken damper plate issue), so e mail whatever you want for this problem if you have questions on the distributor brand etc)  And if you don't still have the address it's keno439@gmail.com Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2022 at 11:35am
I’ll state what everyone is likely thinking… the clicking has gotta be the relay due to a low voltage condition…. Could be the battery, cables or dirty connections.

I suspect if the control isn’t in neutral when the trans is in neutral that he’s unable to pull the pin and introduce fuel while cranking. Gotta get it adjusted appropriately before doing any kind of troubleshooting on the no-start.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2022 at 1:46pm
Well, Reed sent me a couple of pictures and a short video of the engine cranking over.

Sounds like an engine that has no spark or no gas.

Told him to check for spark and try priming it with a little shot of gas down the carburetor being careful to watch for a backfire out the carburetor.

Like he said earlier and the video also showed, it turns over with the shifter in forward completing the circuit through the Neutral safety switch, the relay/solenoid isn't his issue

The distributor has a Prestolite electronic module in the original Prestolite clip down cap distributor.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2022 at 2:26pm
You hear any of the described clicking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2022 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

You hear any of the described clicking?

No but.............he says up above that it only "clicks" when the shifter is in neutral and he turns the key to Start  (maybe an electrical arcing noise?)and the starter has no power, but when he moves it to fwd, turns the key to Start and the misadjusted cable lets the NSS feed power to the sol/relay and the starter, it turns over making normal turning over noises. 

So I didn't hear the "click", maybe it's there but covered up by the noise of the starter and the rotating but not starting engine.

Kinda "weird"

I'd post the video but it might take me a year or so to figure out how Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2022 at 3:32pm
Coil and distributor look to be in poor condition…from the outside anyway.  Love the fuel line.  

I would trust KENO’s nose and troubleshoot spark and fuel first.  2-3 tablespoons of gasoline down the old carby has worked well for me.  Be sure to replace the spark arrestor first.  I’m putting my money on spark problems.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2022 at 6:44am
Well, rumor has it that Reed has an engine that runs now, but it has to be in Forward to start it, so some cable adjustments are needed.

Here's some reading and a video that should help you out Reed

link to cable adjustment thread

link to video

PS.............what did you have to do to get the engine running?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2022 at 10:41am
Couple shots down the carb is what gets her to fire off. Doesn’t run for long before quitting. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2022 at 12:52pm
It seems you have isolated a fuel-delivery problem…

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2022 at 9:36am
So, a fuel delivery problem. Where exactly do I start with that? The carby, pump, and filter have seen better days.  








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bwinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2022 at 7:58pm
Fuel delivery. Is there fresh gas in the fuel tank? 5 gallons or so?

Ok, after that I see the carb bowls have bolts that hold them on. I’ve removed the bottom ones and drained out a mixture of fuel/water in boats that have sat for a season or more.

You could remove one bottom bolt. If there is no fuel in there leave the bolt out and crank it to see if the bowl is filling up. It would be recommended to disable the ignition before that to prevent an accidental fire of course.

If there’s no fuel still I would be looking at the the needle/seat for the carb or plumbing to the pump.

Some boats had fuel shut off valves and if it has one make sure it’s open.

Some had water separator filters also. Good idea to replace every season as they do collect water.

Does this help?
Burton

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bwinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2022 at 1:22pm
Any updates? There’s no better feeling then getting a classic like this running again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2022 at 9:38pm
So I removed the bottom bolt of the back fuel bowl and cranked, but I wasn’t pulling gas from the tank because it is bad. I took the fuel line going from the separator to the pump and put it in a tank with fresh gas and cranked, I got little sputters but no start. No gas ended up coming out of the back bowl. I pulled the plumbing and used the air compressor to clean anything but the hoses seemed to be fine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reed462 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2022 at 10:00pm
Is this the needle/seat? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2022 at 6:54am

Here's a picture of a Holley inlet seat partially screwed in (orange arrow)

The yellow arrow is pointing at the plug you have circled in your picture. You don't want to mess with that plug unless it has an external leak.

You access the internally adjustable needle and seat by taking the float bowl off and removing the plastic baffle, the float and it's spring 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2022 at 7:01am

Here's a slightly fuzzy picture of what it looks like if you take the bowl off and hold it upside down Wink

The white baffle slides out to access the needle and seat after the float and spring are removed.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2022 at 7:07am
Since you have the fuel pump sucking from a portable tank and the carburetor is off, aim the fuel pump discharge into a container and crank the engine with the starter and see if gas is coming out the discharge line to at least give you some indication that the pump is working.

Use the container because it'll spray out the line and surprise you and make a mess too if you don't use the container Wink

Since the boat originally ran for you, I'd check the pump before tearing into the carburetor.

If you're gonna tear into the carburetor, do yourself a favor and get one of the many Holley carburetor tuning or rebuilding books that are on the market.

Here's a link to some examples


They all have their good and bad points, but the David Vizard book is probably one of the better ones
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