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New starter | which to get?? |
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Spotrep 
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Joined: September-21-2021 Location: Rowlett, Tx Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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 Topic: New starter | which to get??Posted: March-14-2022 at 9:46am |
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This is what I was hoping to hear! Thank you for the confirmation JQ!
Keno, I’m 98% sure the cutlass bearing needs to be replaced. I’ll order one today! |
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KENO
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Posted: March-14-2022 at 7:49am |
If everything was good with the engine before this happened, put it back in for it's test run to check for any freeze damage, otherwise one thing could lead to another and another and you'll end up rebuilding the engine
 Put the transmission back on while it's out, it's easier than doing it after the engine is back in the boat. If you're thinking about checking the cutlass bearing or wanting to pull the driveshaft for any reason, do it now while you can slide the shaft out front once the prop is off. Much easier than pulling the coupling off to slide it out the back |
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Jonny Quest
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Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2843 |
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Posted: March-14-2022 at 12:01am |
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Fuel typically mixes very well with oil. Water has a higher specific gravity than oil, so the oil floats on top of the water. If the engine was running with water in the oil, the oil / water mix doesn't emulsify well and the color typically looks like chocolate milk. Milky brown oil is bad ju-ju. Dark brown oil that is very thin would lead me to evaluate fuel in the crankcase.
JQ
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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-13-2022 at 9:16pm |
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Pulled the motor all the way out. Didn’t seem like much more trouble and having space to work is always nice. I’ll say though working on the boats is so much easier than working on cars, especially late model cars.
Drained the oil once I got it out. The oil is very thin but not too dirty. I think that there may be fuel in it. It’s my understanding that water won’t mix very well with the oil. Is this correct? Could I confuse fuel in the oil with water? Also is there anything I should do to the motor while it’s out? |
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-12-2022 at 7:18pm |
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I have access to a chain hoist and a carport built out of semi truck frames!
I’ll lift a bit, block it for safety, remove mounts, put in new plugs and reverse to get it back in! Then I’ll spend the week getting the flywheel back on as well as the starter and hope she runs - without leaking water everywhere |
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KENO
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Posted: March-12-2022 at 5:15pm |
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You only have to get the front of the engine an inch or 2 up and have some blocking under the oil pan or harmonic balancer to let you unbolt the front mounts and get good access to the front plugs.
If you're equipped to lift it out, just lift it up a little .............or lift it higher or out and do your choice of plugs
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-12-2022 at 2:10pm |
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Update:
After looking I’m definitely gonna have to pull the motor. Or at least remove the mounts somehow. These are commander mounts. Not sure if they’re too much different but there is no way of getting a plug in otherwise that I can think of |
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-12-2022 at 10:45am |
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Great idea Keno! I’ll give this a try!
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KENO
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Posted: March-12-2022 at 6:43am |
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Well maybe those plugs saved the day, maybe not.
Instead of pulling the engine and putting new plugs in, then installing the engine again so you can see if it survived, why don't you get some 1 1/2 inch expansion plugs( aka rubber freeze plugs) and put them in the holes and fire up the engine to check for leaks. Not knowing which plugs popped out, even the difficult ones to access can be done without much problem. Just call it a temporary troubleshooting effort and you can decide what needs to be done from there. Sometimes "temporary" might mean a lot of years if there are no leaks. Now of course, those rubber plugs aren't gonna pop out in another freeze situation. And............. if your engine froze and popped some plugs, there's a good chance that your manifolds froze and have some cracks internally/externally. Here's a link to the plugs at NAPA. In keeping with earlier parts of the thread, as far as their country of origin, it begins with C and ends with hina. |
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-11-2022 at 8:29pm |
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I have indeed! There seems to be a slight amount of bend in the plates that were causing the bolts to bind slightly. I found that if I start them all with only 1-2 threads I had enough clearance otherwise I couldn’t access the holes without cross threading.
However- and I’m ashamed to admit- I found some freeze/casting/frost/etc. plugs in the bilge.. we had a cold Texas evening.. and I didn’t winterize. I have to pull the motor in order to access the plug holes so I can drive new ones in. I’m praying that the block is okay. I’m gonna check the oil for water first thing. |
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KENO
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Posted: March-09-2022 at 11:33am |
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You find three holes that work yet ?
Of the 6 original holes that the bolts went into, you use 3 of them.
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KENO
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Posted: March-07-2022 at 8:21pm |
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Don't even think about it, drop the grinder right now  If you do the grinder routine you'll have the center hub off center and have problems getting the shaft thru the hub and if you do manage to get it thru. you'll tear up the damper plate and/or transmission in a short time. Assuming the damper isn't flipped upside down and you're using the right holes on the damper, make sure you're using the right holes on the flywheel. I'd pull the bolts back out and work your way around the flywheel with the damper till you get 3 holes that line up as they should. Maybe you've tried every position already, maybe not. Post a picture when you're at a computer if you still have a problem
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-07-2022 at 7:03pm |
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Well boys I’m a bit perplexed. I (finally) received my damper plate. But the bolt holes aren’t lining up. I’m using my phone right now so can’t post photos but im using the same holes in this thread:
https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49835&OB=DESC 2 line up just fine. The third hole is maybe 1/32th of an inch off. Should I break out the die grinder and clearance the hole? Has anyone else experienced this? |
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KENO
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Posted: March-01-2022 at 6:38pm |
If you want all your info in one thread just keep this one going. Since you started the thread you have the "power" to change the title of the thread if you go back to the first post and select "edit" and then change the title to something catchy like "Spot's 85 SN project" There are lots of long project type threads on CCF.............although William's is pretty much a classic with a little of everything. |
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-01-2022 at 1:27pm |
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Im pretty confident I can handle it. I was going through William777 thread last night titled "blown" ford 351. It was hilarious and quite the roller coaster. Props to him though for sticking in there Im super impressed. Anyways, you posted a picture in the thread with purple lines showing where to bolt up. Ill get it mounted and strike a line and remove it before I cut. Ive spent a lot of time behind an angle grinder. Sidenote: At what point do I just need to create a new thread for this project?
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KENO
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Posted: March-01-2022 at 1:08pm |
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Or you could just shrug your shoulders and say I got a "good damper at a good price" and make sure you know where to cut it so you don't have to buy another one.
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Spotrep
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Posted: March-01-2022 at 12:04pm |
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Soooooo.. According to fred warner I bought the lower quality damper for a higher price?
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TRBenj
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Posted: February-28-2022 at 12:35pm |
I followed up with Fred Warner as the listing did seem possibly inconsistent… this was their reply: “These are manufactured by HGE and their part number is 4K2C. We used to get these through Alto (DA-106) but their quality was sliding, and the price was about three times higher. So we had them made by HGE for us. The picture is likely still the old one. Looking closely I do see it still says Sachs on it! I'll get the photo updated. The new ones looks identical but the metal is jslightly darker. Thank you, Fredwarner Marine Sales & Support” |
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KENO
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Posted: February-25-2022 at 7:43pm |
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Well lucky for all of us, all these big Multinational companies with factories in cheap labor countries all over the world aren't using any of those cheap foreign parts in any of the things we buy and use over here.
PS Gary.........................I don't think I'd worry about your Brazilian plate, Alto has gotten them from Sachs who have had them built in Brazil for a long time
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Gary S
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Posted: February-25-2022 at 1:03pm |
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Brazil and Germany have always had a good working relationship.
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Spotrep
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Posted: February-25-2022 at 12:58pm |
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Its likely the case that many "made in America" products have parts sourced from the same Chinese plants. My issue with Chinese parts really isn't the quality as Chinese quality has increased significantly (in many cases) but rather their labor practices and id rather not give my money to the CCP. Its possible that the one I ended up buying gets shipped from china in parts and they install the springs and call it Brazilian made |
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KENO
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Posted: February-25-2022 at 9:01am |
So just to make sure I got this right................you're OK with the Brazilian made damper plate since an American company is selling it? How about if an American company is selling something that was made in China or has Chinese parts in it?
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Spotrep
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Posted: February-23-2022 at 12:30pm |
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Ah I didn’t even take notice of that. I’ll buy from your source
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Gary S
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Posted: February-23-2022 at 12:08pm |
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So your alright putting in a Chinese sourced drive plate? To each his own.
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Spotrep
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Posted: February-23-2022 at 11:52am |
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Ill order it today. Fred Warner has them for $88 http://https://www.fredwarner.net/product/marine-drive-plate-gm-chevy-305-350-boat-damper-26-spline-1004-650-006-bbd0107ul/The PO of this boat struck the prop on the trailer. I need to replace or repair the prop. I am hoping shaft isn't bent, I don't even want to check. Im gonna replace the strut bearing and rope seal I think its called. any quick tips I should be aware of? Im gonna fix the trailer to work for the boat. I think im just gonna lift the trailer an inch or two with either shackles of maybe blocks and longer U-bolts and then lower the prop guard. The trailer is a really nice tandem axle aluminum. |
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Morfoot
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Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5311 |
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Posted: February-23-2022 at 8:46am |
 from the looks of that picture with all that rust.....I'd definitely replace it.
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Gary S
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Posted: February-22-2022 at 8:57pm |
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I saw that one Ken but it scared me off since the description never mentioned Sachs or Alto. I'm concerned they used a generic picture.
Here is the verbiage- HGE 4K2C Marine Drive Plate GM Chevy 305 350 26 Spline Velvet Drive 1004-650-006 In the description it says made in China  Here is the other listing,the one I bought- ALTO DAMPER PLATE DA-106 *NEW* It came in a Sachs box.... Made in America......Brazil in this instance |
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KENO
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Posted: February-22-2022 at 7:31pm |
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I didn't buy one of these but I stumbled onto it on EBAY a few minutes ago, just cause I wanted to see if I could find a better price than Gary
link It even says Sachs on it and free shipping too Hang in there Spot, he'll probably come up with a better deal. Edit PS ......... if you go to the Fred Warner website you'll save a little more, not much but a little bit
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Gary S
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Posted: February-22-2022 at 6:43pm |
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I bought one here just last week- http://www.ebay.com/itm/263261551321?epid=1454654804&hash=item3d4b9c7ad9:g:g3AAAOSw9AtZ4P-U
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Spotrep
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Posted: February-22-2022 at 6:43pm |
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What would I do with y’all?!
Thanks a bunch guys |
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Spotrep wrote: