Removing Protec & Throttlebody, installing carb

Getting into this fuel line replacement, is there a fuel filter down in the tank? I don’t have on in-line (I’ve just replaced the fuel separator), and curious what any of you have added fuel filters in-line.

My tank has a bottom with a good sized - about 4” diameter- (assuming it is the bottom of the float & fuel pickup) section in the middle that is lower than the rest of the tank. Curious if I need to remove tank if there’s a filter in there. That would be one bugger of a place to put a filter!

Thanks!
Erik

Thanks. So, is it recommended to add a fuel filter in-line? I see newer boats have replacement ones available... I guess I originally thought the separator worked as a filter...

Any advice on where you guys put yours? I would assume after separator, before fuel pump... although I hate having additional set of clamps on the fuel line if it is not recommended.

Fuel/water separator. https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/fuel-water-separator-kit/

Yeah I guess I’m not a usual suspect :)

Gary S wrote: Your good with what you have - that "separator" is a filter

Thanks Gary!

Anybody have a picture of the bracket that holds the 60A breaker and starter relay? Thanks!

KENO wrote: The picture in the link below is the kit you bought from Nautiqueparts. The bracket is next to the black plastic cover and has a couple of black wires laying on it in the picture  link It mounts using the top two bolts holding the bellhousing to the block

Yeah, I am getting it connected, and yet I’m not sure how the 60A breaker connects to this bracket. Nor how that black plastic cover is held down/in place.

That’s the kind of picture I was looking for... was someone who already mounted theirs, & what the end product looks like. Assuming we’re all installing the same setup, it seems like it should be a tad more intuitive :)

If I need to drill my own / aka if this kit works for many years/ that might explain the not exact bolt holes. Yes the bell housing bolts match, but ... the rest seems like I might need to modify. But I just haven’t seen what the end product looks like... :)

Thanks.
-not usual suspect :)

And here's one from CCF showing the breaker bracket more centered, then the plastic piece should be intuitive after that 

Eric

I upgraded the alternator to the 100 Amp alternator, with new cable from alternator to starter relay.

Since the cable has a 100 amp fuse, I’ll bypass the 60a breaker with this cable. I was going to eliminate the 60a breaker, but the power (red wire) needs something to connect to (in the diagram it comes off the breaker).

The terminals on the back of the breaker are too small for the large eye on the new cable anyway.

I assume this is correct. Correction (if necessary) appreciated! :)

Yep. Won the battle w/ fuel pump. :)

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/fuse-link-circuit-breaker-to-starter-100-amp-fused-wire-pcm-gm-engines-from-2002-on-r153018a/ doesn’t list size. I don’t know the gage wire. But it’s bigger than the old one, and smaller than the ones coming from battery and going to starter.

I just can’t believe the diagram that came with this wiring harness. The new wiring harness has white wires, yet I don’t know what the white connect to. Looking for white connections, If you look at the diagram it says “3” connects to white/red, but next to the image of the “3 wire”, it says white.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15SbXM1X_gZkJpnw50y_JOg1MINMcFnfl/view?usp=drivesdk

Current fight is this wiring harness ;)

At the rear of the engine, just off the plug, there are two groups of wires: approx 14ga red and 16ga purple wire, and a larger red (10ga maybe) and 16ga white connected to many more white of same ga.

Assuming red and purple go to resistor; 10ga red goes to 60A breaker. But those white wires. Has anyone else installed this harness, on a ‘94 SN?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1THnamS_-nEIdq35MTxASzsNO5I2eC-Lv/view?usp=drivesdk

I installed the resistor, but do I have to cut the ends of the purple and red to connect to the resistor? Can’t believe in their “kit” I would need to do this. Hmmm

Thanks for the help. Erik

Erikgundy98 wrote: Yep. Won the battle w/ fuel pump. :) https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/fuse-link-circuit-breaker-to-starter-100-amp-fused-wire-pcm-gm-engines-from-2002-on-r153018a/ doesn’t list size. I don’t know the gage wire. But it’s bigger than the old one, and smaller than the ones coming from battery and going to starter. I just can’t believe the diagram that came with this wiring harness. The new wiring harness has white wires, yet I don’t know what the white connect to. Looking for white connections, If you look at the diagram it says “3” connects to white/red, but next to the image of the “3 wire”, it says white. https://drive.google.com/file/d/15SbXM1X_gZkJpnw50y_JOg1MINMcFnfl/view?usp=drivesdk Current fight is this wiring harness ;) At the rear of the engine, just off the plug, there are two groups of wires: approx 14ga red and 16ga purple wire, and a larger red (10ga maybe) and 16ga white connected to many more white of same ga. Assuming red and purple go to resistor; 10ga red goes to 60A breaker. But those white wires. Has anyone else installed this harness, on a ‘94 SN? I installed the resistor, but do I have to cut the ends of the purple and red to connect to the resistor? Can’t believe in their “kit” I would need to do this. Hmmm Thanks for the help. Erik

Question 1 The green wire goes to the warning light on the dash for low oil pressure or high water temperature, but since the new harness has no connections for that, you can leave it disconnected or run wires to your oil pressure switch and coolant temp switch.

I vote for doing it now while the muffler is out you'll just have that much more room. If your only going to turn it over just remove the belt to the raw water pump

Your SBF distributor runs counter-clockwise.

Perhaps I should clarify...the rotor turns counter-clockwise.