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Ticking noise from front of engine

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote td_in_nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Ticking noise from front of engine
    Posted: January-01-2022 at 7:41am
Went through the same thing sevyears ago and it was the belts
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Wilhelm Hertzog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-01-2022 at 3:20am
Originally posted by td_in_nc td_in_nc wrote:

Did you put on a new alternator belt?


No, haven't replaced any belts yet. I do have a spare set, guess I should try them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote td_in_nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-31-2021 at 6:54pm
Did you put on a new alternator belt?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-31-2021 at 9:27am
Status update: everything seems to have gone pretty smoothly with all the installations, with no signs of leaks anywhere after some good time on the water. However, I still have the ticking noise, and the new water pump did not make much difference to operating temperatures. Using a screwdriver as stethoscope, I can't get to the bottom of the ticking noise. Which to me suggests that it is either belts or exhaust leaks. At this stage I'll probably just live with the ticking noise and slightly high engine temps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2021 at 6:37am
No harm in painting the area you want to paint behind the water pump.

The only thing in there is air or water leakage from the pump backing plate or the outlet ports where they meet the timing cover. That's probably why they weren't painted originally 

As far as RTV or gluing with something like Permatex 2 or something similar use whatever you feel more comfortable with.

I've been known to trim a gasket or 2 in that area to make it fit better. That gasket isn't really any fun at all Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2021 at 4:58pm
After a good bit of spirited tapping with a punch and a chisel, and prying with a screwdriver, the key eventually came out. The key (not the crank) was causing the binding. A few gentle passes with a file (and cleaning up the 'tap' marks) got the sprocket sliding over it eventually. So that took care of the timing set. Installing the sleeve on the balancer (after leaving it in the freezer overnight) went smoothly using a bench vice and piece of wood to gradually press it on squarely.

After not planning to do so initially, I decided the timing cover really does need a new paint job. Took me a while to get it properly cleaned up, but I'm now ready to paint. Two questions:

  1. To me it would make sense to paint the area of the timing cover behind the water pump backing plate: it is exposed metal, does not get any corrosion protection from oil, and paint flaking off from that area won't end up in the oil pan. Yet it seems that that is not standard practice (refer for example to this image: link). Why not?
  2. Anything to choose between black or Ford Blue for the colour of the paint?
And then a few questions as I'm approaching installing the cover:

  1. Looking at the semi-circular rubber timing cover to oil pan gasket, it seems that it is too big to fit snugly into the groove on the timing cover that it is meant to go into. Do the two tabs/ears circled in the picture below have to be trimmed for a proper fit? Or is it meant to fit correctly 'as is'?

The automotive forums have various differing views on what the best plan of attack is to install the cover. I intend to proceed as follows:

  1. Apply a bead of silicone around the water ports on both sides of the timing cover to block gasket
  2. Stick all the gaskets (timing cover to block, rubber semi-circle, cork corner seal) onto the timing cover using either RTV or gluing them down. Any recommendation between RTV or glue?
  3. Apply a bead of RTV in the oil pan/engine block corner.
  4. Fit the timing cover (taking care not to damage the front main seal on the crank key).
  5. Loosely tighten the four oil pan to timing cover bolts.
  6. Install the harmonic balancer before installing any other bolts, so as to ensure alignment of the crank seal on the balancer is properly centered.
  7. Install and torque to spec (or just torque to spec, in the case of the oil pan bolts) all the bolts that are unique to the timing cover (i.e. not also holding the water pump in position).
  8. Install the water pump.
Any comments/suggestions/criticisms on the above? Thanks a lot as always!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2021 at 7:56pm
Originally posted by Wilhelm Hertzog Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Have you taken the key out to see if the sprocket will slide all the way on?

You might need to clean up the key and the shaft a bit to let it go on easily

Said key doesn't want to come out without a fight. The parts manual diagram suggests it is a semi-circular woodruff key, so if I hit down on one end with a punch or such like, the other end should pop up and out, right? Or is there a better way to get the key out?

if it's putting up too much of a fight, leave it alone so you don't end up mushrooming or otherwise damaging the key or the shaft. Sometimes they're a bear to get out and if you don't absolutely have to, just clean up the shaft and key as much as you can.

Keep in mind that you're working right over the open sump so any dropped stuff ends up in the oil pan Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2021 at 5:08pm
Don't try to "seesaw" the key. Using a punch, just tap it on one end parallel to the shaft and it should come out. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2021 at 4:46pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Have you taken the key out to see if the sprocket will slide all the way on?

You might need to clean up the key and the shaft a bit to let it go on easily

Said key doesn't want to come out without a fight. The parts manual diagram suggests it is a semi-circular woodruff key, so if I hit down on one end with a punch or such like, the other end should pop up and out, right? Or is there a better way to get the key out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2021 at 5:37pm
Combination of heat, peening and wire cutters got the old sleeve off. Balancer is sleeping in the freezer in preparation for installation of the new sleeve.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2021 at 5:38pm
Click on the link for some good info Wink

link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2021 at 5:05pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

...with a National brand speedi sleeve, it's about 1.900 inches.


Make that exactly 1.900 inches - at least in my case.

So best way to remove the old sleeve? Heat it up an hope it slides off with some prying? Carefully cut through it with a hacksaw blade? Seeing that the balancer snout will again be sleeved, I don't imagine a few scuff marks on the snout itself from a wayward saw tooth or two will be the end of the world?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2021 at 6:13am
Have you taken the key out to see if the sprocket will slide all the way on?

You might need to clean up the key and the shaft a bit to let it go on easily
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2021 at 3:23am
Another little hiccup: getting the new timing set sprockets on to the camshaft and crankshaft. The old sprockets came off easily enough (cam sprocket needed a bit of prying to get it sliding off, crank sprocket I could slide off by hand), but the new ones are very tight. The crank sprocket I can only get on by hand to this point (and yes, I did apply assembly lube to the sprocket and crank):



The cam sprocket I reckon I'll be able to draw in by tightening down the cap screw that holds everything in place on the camshaft. I can't imagine that this will require so much force as to risk damaging the camshaft's internal threads. But it seems the crank sprocket will require either heat to expand it and allow it to slide all the way in, or some gentle tapping with a suitably sized piece of pipe to drive it all the way in.

Any suggestions as to the best route to follow?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2021 at 8:02pm
If you measure the diameter, you should know if it's the original shaft or has a speedi sleeve over it.

The original diameter is about 1.875 inches and with a National brand speedi sleeve, it's about 1.900 inches.

I don't think it's a sleeve, but that's just me thinkin' Wink

If it is a sleeve, you'll have to take it off before putting a new one on.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2021 at 5:21pm
I intended to fit the speedi sleeve included in the Fel-Pro gasket kit I'm using to the harmonic balancer, but I'm not sure if there is already a sleeve fitted to the balancer which should be removed first. The shiny snout (with black wear lines from the seal lip) certainly looks much newer than the rest of the balancer, and the new sleeve doesn't look like it will fit over the snout without a serious amount of heat and/or coaxing. Pictures of the balancer:



So can anyione advise me as to whether:

1. That is indeed an existing sleeve on the snout of the balancer, and
2. If it is, whether it should be removed before installing the new sleeve, or whether the new sleeve should be fitted over the old one.

Thanks as always for any guidance!


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Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2021 at 7:44am
I guess the 800 bucks in their price list must have included the obligatory PCM markup on the original Ford price Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2021 at 9:09pm
Michigan Motors has them new for 300,which is still to much for me and then shipping and customs yikes! They come up used every so often if you decide yours is unserviceable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2021 at 8:39pm
Considering that a new one probably isn't available and they cost 800 bucks years ago, I think it's serviceable as long as the gasket surfaces are good They look a little rough but workable in the pictures.

The helicoil............not required but couldn't hurt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2021 at 5:37pm
Below are pictures of the timing cover water passages (before any cleaning up), as well as the front of the timing cover after a bit of cleaning up. The area circled in red has definitely had some repair done to it: it seems there was some epoxy or similar used to rebuild material that had corroded away. The hole in the red circle has a helicoil inside it, and there was a mounting bolt screwed into it (which is not really required, as per this thread). This suggests to me there was a leak/corrosion problem in that area in the past.







Questions:

1. Is the timing cover still serviceable, or should I replace?
2. Is a helicoil and mounting bolt in the other non-threaded hole a good idea to help avoid a leak, or is that just unnecessary effort?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2021 at 6:12pm
They just snug up to the block and may take a little trimming to be just right, like you said.

Use your favorite sealer on the gaskets. Put it on heavy where the little pan corner gaskets butt up to the block and where they meet the neoprene seal.

When it's time to put bolts in, put the 4 bolts from the oil pan to the bottom of the timing cover in just snug first, so that the pan's front neoprene seal goes in place correctly then put the rest in from the front, then tighten things up..

It's not as easy as doing it on an engine stand with the pan off, but it's not terrible either Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2021 at 5:04pm
Question on installing the timing cover: are the cork corner gaskets supposed to fit in between the block and the oil pan at their back edge, or do they just snug up against the block? If they have to go in between the block and oil pan it seems to require lowering the pan some. If they just snug up against the block, then they require some trimming to align with the oil pan to timing cover bolt holes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OldSchoolBlue84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2021 at 12:44am
Originally posted by Wilhelm Hertzog Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:


Any other suppliers worth checking for the right pump at a good price? Nautiqueparts.com seems more expensive. I have a local reseller who can usually supply me with parts from Summit Racing at a decent price. This Sierra Marine pump looks like it is the same pump as the one Skidim sells, but at a slightly lower price: link. Any reason not to go with the Sierra Marine pump from Summit?


Just replaced mine last week and purchased at www.myinboardmarine.com since they had it in stock and shipped it quick. $119 plus shipping. They have 1 remaining. SKIDIM was on back order at the time. Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2021 at 6:13am
The Summit ad does mention that it has a bi directional impeller so I think you'll be fine with that pump.

It's probably the same pump that SkiDim is selling

I knew you had cooling issues in the past, didn't know if they had all been resolved though. Like you said, maybe this will help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2021 at 2:33am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

If what you have is working and you don't have cooling issues, it would be your choice of what to do.Wink 

Well, now that you've mentioned it...

I have of course been having cooling issues. Have been monitoring the situation carefully, and after doing more research on some of the car forums I concluded that my engine temps are probably on the upper limit of acceptable. But they have certainly been hotter than I was expecting with a 170 degree thermostat. Maybe this water pump is the root cause of that. I'll definitely be replacing.

This one from Skidim is obviously the right one: link. Any other suppliers worth checking for the right pump at a good price? Nautiqueparts.com seems more expensive. I have a local reseller who can usually supply me with parts from Summit Racing at a decent price. This Sierra Marine pump looks like it is the same pump as the one Skidim sells, but at a slightly lower price: link. Any reason not to go with the Sierra Marine pump from Summit?
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Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2021 at 7:45pm
That's an automotive circulating pump with a stamped steel impeller that you're also turning the opposite way it would turn in a car.

Since you have a closed cooling system, presumably with anti freeze in it, it would probably be a good idea to replace it since it's pretty ugly looking. 

Looks like a lot of years without anti freeze to me

The typical PCM pump sold these days is bi directional and has a much beefier cast bronze impeller and a stainless steel backing plate.

Here's a picture of a well aged marine pump with the backing plate off.

If what you have is working and you don't have cooling issues, it would be your choice of what to do.Wink


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2021 at 4:46pm
I did in fact run the engine briefly again today, and could not hear the ticking noise with none of the accessories (raw water pump, circulation pump, alternator) connected. Which makes the circulation pump the prime suspect. I pulled off the pump (which I was intending to do in any case, as I need to fit a fuel pump eccentric to the camshaft - as per my thread here). Here are some pictures.







The front of the timing cover looks pretty nasty to me. So:

1. Does the corrosion on the front of the timing cover and back of the water pump cover plate suggest that the water pump has been leaking? Any way to check/confirm?

2. The circulation pump spins reasonably easily by hand when removed from the block, and there is no obvious free play in the bearing. But there is definitely a slight whining noise when the pump is rotated clockwise (i.e. the opposite direction of rotation to which it will normally be spinning on my reverse rotation engine). Does that noise suggest the bearing is bad, and potentially the source of the yet to be identified ticking noise? Any further tests/checks I can do on the pump bearing to confirm?

3. Anything else that looks odd or in need of attention in the water pump from the pictures?

As always, thanks a lot for any help!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2021 at 2:32pm
Originally posted by Wilhelm Hertzog Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:

I'll report back.

This will have to wait for a while. I've already pulled the transmission from the boat, and running the motor without the exhaust hoses connected to the risers is so loud there's little hope of listening carefully for presence/absence of the ticking noise. I'll get back to this when I have my transmission back in the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2021 at 5:56am
I did not in fact run it for a quick check with the belts removed. I just spun the circulation pump by hand. I'll report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2021 at 5:22am
I'd say your "free play" is normal with a flexible impeller pump like that..

If the pulley is tight on the shaft and the key is a good fit in the keyway and the impeller is a good fit on the key, then that movement is the flexible impeller vanes.

I don't think you ever mentioned whether the noise went away when you ran it for a quick check with the belts removed
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