1991 Sport Nautique Open Bow Stringer

Looking good.👍

Yep, Marty will hook you right up.

No helping hands  so far I'm afraid but I am lining up some for the glassing part. 

This project is really testing my ingenuity and tenacity. I dream of a garage with a bench and vice .   Main objective now is not to think myself into a standstill, and keep moving forward. Floor in with the engine frame in the right place will be a massive landmark. Wiring is coming along slowly. Engine is now waiting for the last parts to arrive hopefully just as the floor is finished. Thanks for the encouragement!

That looks like a good plan to help you get the right spacing. I would recommend trying to get a basic shape on the bottom so that one of the bottom edges is close to the right line, I used a circular saw for this. Then lay it in next to the spacers you have made and use a compass to measure from the top of the stringer down to the line that is the level of the stringer (assuming you have already subtracted for the plywood that goes on top). Check this at each spacer. Now use the compass to scribe the cut line on in the inside and outside of the stringer. This will give you a line to follow the curvature of the hull. Don't forget that the fiberglass does have some thickness so that if the stringers are right up against the engine frame, it could be difficult to drop it in. It is not a lot of thickness, but I have seen other threads where this has been an issue.

Ian,

Tower was a long shot it's another problem to be solved, I am  really looking for the biggest shade I can find to shade in the super hot Hong Kong sun. It would be good to find something that would fill up the holes where the tower was taken off. bigger issues to solve right now;

I am not an expert using fiberglass either. Including the work I did on my boat, I have done the fiberglass on one boat and nothing else. Epoxy made it easy. I bought the 1 gallon kit of CPES from Rot Doctor and I still have some left over after giving every piece of wood that went into it at least 2 good coats. For Epoxy I used US Composites and got about three orders. I think the first was like 5 gallons and then I had to get like 3 more gallons. It has been a few years since I made my first purchase so I don't remember exactly, but I would say 8 gallons would be the minimum you would need.

Thanks, lucky you have a good memory that post is really useful i could not turn anything up just searching or googleing

On this thread there is a picture and sketch of the front lifting eye from a Barefoot Nautique. I have not seen the details on a Sport, but I imagine it to be similar, just tucked away behind the seats in the bow. I have seen another thread with details on how someone replaced the rear ones, but I can't seem to find it now.

Thanks

Just as I was about to congratulate myself on finishing the surface prep for the floor and stringers in complete white out . I was hit with a curve ball.... the lifting points are mush.  its a funny story I was really angry that when I acquired the boat it was lifted with strops without a spacer instead of the lifting points and the deck was damaged.  If they has used the lifting points I think it would have been gave over.

Thanks the photo is really useful.

I used outdoor grade A/C plywood from my local building supply. I am pretty sure it was 1/2 inch (13 mm). I coated it with CPES and put a layer of fiberglass on it before putting it in the boat.
As they say, there are many ways to skin a cat, but I chose to reduce the height of both the primary and secondary stringers and put the plywood on top. I had seen the cut holes and pour foam method, but I chose to pour the foam, shave to the right height, and place the plywood on top. I believe that cutting holes will still leave voids and I was concerned about cutting holes in good plywood and trying to get it sealed and flush again.
When joining to the original fiberglass I just laid the new stuff on it. The thickness is not that great so it isn’t an issue. The floor gets a lot of strength from the plywood and the epoxy fiberglass, I felt, was to give it a little protection from moisture and impact. I used some chopped strand and some cloth, but I don’t remember the details at this point.
The fairing compound was to smooth out the joints. There were rib lines from the 1708, poorly shaped joints that weren’t nicely rounded, ends of cloth, etc. In the bilge these rough spots would make it harder to clean and drain. On the floor it makes it uneven. Fairing just makes these areas smoother. I would advise making sure you have a good formula. I think I used too much ground glass. It was strong, but when sanding was required and strength wasn’t, it was a pain.