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1991 Sport Nautique Open Bow Stringer |
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Ian H 
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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 Posted: March-20-2021 at 1:23pm |
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Floor is in, buoyancy using foam board cut with a sawsall and fixed with aerosol expanding foam where needed was quick and accurate and got over the variability problem using polyurethane in high temperatures. it was 28 in the shade today.
  bridge with pylon hole is successful with three layers of bi axial layed up on cling film on a board and squeezed in with clamps from below. very stiff and thin enough to fit over the engine frame . |
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Ian H
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: March-19-2021 at 12:00pm |
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Well spotted , the top of the ski locker was originally plywood with fiberglass on top to make the bow floor. The wood was rotten , so I extracted it all and cut out a part of the floor over the locker by mistake when I took out the ballast tank. I cut a piece of ply to slot in about 90% in I put it in temporarily to get the space right when I reconnected the ski locker to the floor and fitted the front floor panelp ,but you have reminded me I still need to remove it and saturate it with epoxy. I plan to rebuild the step floor bit when I do the top fiberglass floor layer .
I stood on the floor with just the hardened peanut butter today and it feels good . should be even better after the top cover of fiberglass goes in. |
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MechGaT
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Joined: March-09-2015 Location: Chattanooga Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: March-19-2021 at 7:09am |
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Looks like great progress. I noticed you are missing a strip of wood behind the ski locker. Do you have a plan to install some there? It gives the back of the locker support, and I think you will probably step in that area more than you think you would. Edit: I see now in an earlier post that you do have something to go in that area and have a plan, just haven’t installed it.
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'92 Sport Nautique
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NCH20SKIER
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Joined: December-16-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2207 |
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Posted: March-19-2021 at 5:59am |
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moving forward. keep pushing or pulling whatever the case may be
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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN |
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samudj01
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Joined: March-10-2009 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 947 |
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Posted: March-18-2021 at 7:54pm |
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Great progress. Enjoy following this. Keep up the good work!
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78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
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Ian H
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: March-18-2021 at 10:35am |
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Yes I am still pushing on. The sticking it all together bit is quite stressful and after all the effort to get the bits to fit together I was a bit nervous on my limited glassing skills. Resin finally turned up I manged to gather together 32 liters of 105 West system Epoxy close to the 8 gallon estimate from MechGa T Lets see If it can do the job! Epoxy was a very good decision, working outside were ambient goes from 17 deC up to close to 28 in one day with direct sun I could tweek the mix enough to give enough time to work and go off in an hour.
My prep on the position of the stringers worked perfectly and with the stainless screws adjusting the gap for the peanut butter I could get the stringers bedded in exactly on the planned position just screwing down on two screws in 30 seconds leaving enough time to smooth the fillet and get the first 2 inch tape on before the butter started stiffening and avoided any rework.  Everything ready on the start line mixing table on the stern of the boat to minimize time climbing in and out  Peanut Butter and 2" tape in on secondary and primary cut outs on the holding jigs allow the 2" tape to be threaded in to give a good robust bond before knocking out the position jigs. Then marathon of laminating I followed the plan courtesy of MechGa T + as I could not source 1708 an additional layer of bi axial. Pre cutting the shapes to fit the stringers with tabs was a good prep as no time to um and urr or think about cutting shapes.   Here is the result  My stack calculation worked out good I was aiming to have the same 6mm wall thickness on the top of the stringers as the originals and I was pretty dead on so the floor still fitted and the engine frame mounting points look good and space between the stringers is dead on. I made a jig to calm my nerves so i could check as i went along .  I used hard drainage pipe for the ventilation which I then glued up ready for the floor to go in  I bought enough polyurethane expanding foam to fill the voids but High ambient caused overheating and my tests expanded ridiculously quickly which could deal with but the foam over expanded not leaving closed cells so the foam deflated a short while after. I managed to do the essential bow end filling around the vent pipes in the bow. the other areas i fitted pre expanded foal board into the voids before putting the floor on top. I do not need the structure as I have 15mm birch board with a layer of glass on the underside too so I only need the emergency flotation properties of the foam. This allowed me to keep moving and get both sides of front floor down on peanut butter held down with cast iron drain grates  dark air full of mosquitos I will get a better photo later. I am so happy the levels look good and boat feels very rigid. Just got to find the energy to finish in the next window of dry weather. BTW my stingers were 8% moisture level after living in our bedroom with a dehumidifier so I think the bond will be good with the wood.  On the engine front the gearbox is now on the engine and off the stand. Compression Wow Yes Fuel yes but no spark.... Can you believe the cruel trick that those nice guys at Sierra distributor paid on me... Yes the connector is correctly inserted But it took a bit of finding to see that green and red wires are swapped on the connector.  Electrical system on a board let me check that I had oil pressure and all the sensors on the engine work while manually priming the oil pump and cranking to try and start. . Good weather then switched all effort to hull I will start the engine on the next wet day. I hope.... I am now thinking of the next challenges..... How to get the engine into the boat and how to align the prop shaft with the engine.  I dream of doing this in a garage with a bench a vice .... Many thanks for the encouragement and in particular for the layup plan from MechGa T it worked a treat even if i did laminate a lot of it with my bare hands (glove-less) to squish out the bubbles Desperate laminating techniques!Its warming up here so I need to finish the big stuff soon!
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Timr71
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Joined: March-28-2016 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 80 |
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Posted: March-16-2021 at 9:49am |
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Hi Ian - any updates. You seem to be making such good progress on this one.
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uk1979
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Joined: June-13-2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1411 |
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Posted: March-02-2021 at 11:19am |
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Look at this thread it has Tim's link on home brew CPES,
https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20669&title=home-brew
You may be able to thin the treacle after you have added the hardener first... best run some tests, I found my Epoxy worked best as a CPES @ 80% Xylene to 20% Epoxy... Do all your mixing/working outside this is not good stuff to breath.. some use other types of thinners too. Good luck with it. |
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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MechGaT
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Joined: March-09-2015 Location: Chattanooga Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: March-02-2021 at 10:16am |
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Looking good on the progress! For the ends that butt up, once they are glued down with the epoxy peanut butter, take a little more and smooth out the transition. Then fiberglass over them and if still not as smooth as you want, use some fairing compound. If you are putting in carpet it doesn’t have to be perfect, just smooth enough it won’t be noticeable.
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'92 Sport Nautique
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Ian H
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: March-02-2021 at 10:01am |
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Dry floor fit up looks like this, not sure yet how to join the two butt ends of plywood floor together..Peanut butter on top of the foam??
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Ian H
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: March-02-2021 at 9:51am |
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I am still batting on, after convincing myself epoxy is the way to go, I ordered out of China it only to get the wrong thing with a consistency of very stiff treacle even when heated in a bath of boiling water. Penetrating epoxy also was not what I was looking for. The failed attempt took some weeks but i found a source for West system in China and a method of shipping it out but Chinese new year then fell and everything ground to a halt. My estimate is I need about 30ltrs all in all to the job done I now have the first 3.7 in hand (US Gal) I am crossing the rest will turn up this week.
In the meantime I have had time to plan better. I decided the air vents are one of the best paths for water into the under floor space so I have used 3 1/4 drain pipe which should let me seal the water upstairs. I dont have a photo but the back two vents are the same plastic drain pipe and 90 degree bends.   The pylon foot used the last epoxy I had. Then I had to start on other stuff.  I managed to get the new cutlass bearing in with the technique recip saw and threaded bar learned on CCF   I could get 2 4 6 and 8 inch fiberglass tape to layup the stringers but bilabial came in a 1.5 m roll so I have cut the forms to drape over and get the constant overlap at the hull without too much excess at the top when the stringer high gets short. ( Three pallet table on top of a dead fridge works   Now just need resin... Then on to engine. not perfect engine building conditions outside under a tarpaulin but it rained to damp down all dust just at the right time. Big relief when I got it all closed up from the elements. Not pretty but I hope should be reliable. Sierra Distributor and coil, new alternator, starter oil pump, raw water impeller pulleys ...... valve covers are too tall and just hit the exhaust manifold but I have another set of Edelbrocks on the way that should fix this. The PCM alloy ones were corroded too badly to save.  Bounce on the engine support started to freak me out so the tripod came out early as additional support .  I had most of the cast iron parts sand blasted and I then repainted. Engine mounts with new rubber worked out well  Oh and in my spare time I completed the full electrical rebuild on a board ready to hook up with the engine for an out of boat start up.  I hope my next news will be to show the stringers and floor going in..... I hope my layup thicknesses work out to the floor height comes good.
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C_Heath
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Joined: January-21-2020 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 207 |
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Posted: February-09-2021 at 2:14pm |
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awesome thread IAN! keep it current and dont make us come to hong kong for updates!
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1979 Calipso Runabout (the boat that got it all started)
1988 Mastercraft ProStar 190 (sold) 2000 Pro Air Nautique/GT40 |
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Ian H
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: February-06-2021 at 7:38am |
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Finally rebuild time. Peanut buttered the new lifting points into place ready for glassing in tomorrow. managed to squeeze them in good and tight and hold them with a cam effect lever pivoted far away on the stringer. the excess squeezing out of the sides gives me confidence there should be no voids.
Floor is now dry fitted on top of the dry fitted stingers spaced with packing to allow for the Fiberglas layup thicknesses. levels came up pretty good so I could route out the thickness of the old floor to join the ski box to the new floor. Ugly now but should be strong I hope All my materials have just arrived from China just before the big slow down for Chinese new year. Epoxy is not the low viscosity I was looking for but is great for peanut butter. Lamination is not possible with this treacle so managed to find a source in Hong Kong for West System which works fine but not sure its going to be enough, ??? Is there a problem to use the thick epoxy for the peanut butter and put the low viscosity laminating epoxy on top?
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: January-31-2021 at 7:19pm |
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Ian,
Good work with the adhesive lined heat shrink crimp on connectors. It's an item I always recommend. Yes, the old wire can be a real PITA. Thanks for the tip. It's too bad there aren't many boat builders that go for the extra cost of using tinned marine grade wire.
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Ian H
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: January-31-2021 at 7:05pm |
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Thanks for the picture I was wondering what those two blocks were in the bilge.
I have now filled them with resin and chop to put them to use. going to be tight with the rudder cable clamp....  New lifting mounts are made ready to glass in and floor is cut to first rough fit.  |
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Ian H
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Posted: January-31-2021 at 6:56pm |
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I have had to almost completely redo the wiring but I have managed to keep the original big connectors.
I used the heat shrink crimp connectors in the photo below. You need a good heat gun to melt the glue and get them to seal. they are great as they are rock hard and impossible to pull the wires out of the crimp after they hare shrunk. It is much easier to get good joints with the think ring crimp like the RS pro ones in the photo the crimp is always good the think one are a bit variable so worth hunting these down. One other tip is that where you need to splice a wire to the old harness and there are oxidated black wires normal flux is not good enough to allow a solder or the crimp has a bad resistance. I was very successful in solving this by soaking the stripped ends in vinegar and salt solution for a few hours and then soaking in bicarbonate of soda to neutralize the effect. I was able to get perfect tinning for my soldered splices like this. Saved the day for me!      |
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MechGaT
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Joined: March-09-2015 Location: Chattanooga Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 5:36pm |
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I always wondered if it was supposed to have a battery box. It is good to know that my boat is not the only one without one.
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'92 Sport Nautique
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ultrarunner
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Joined: October-02-2005 Location: Ridgefield, Ct. Status: Offline Points: 1809 |
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 10:10am |
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You could be right. I was just thinking 'big picture' of an electrical source and fuel source in such close proximity, in an area not well ventilated. Clearly, however, we're not seeing issues with all these older boats with batteries in the back.
Mark
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 10:05am |
Mark, I've been around boats for around 60 years and have never seen nor heard of a battery problem causing a dangerous situation. I feel you concern is unfounded.
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ultrarunner
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Joined: October-02-2005 Location: Ridgefield, Ct. Status: Offline Points: 1809 |
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 9:35am |
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I had a lead acid catch fire a bunch of years ago. Wasn't in a boat. Nicads can be nasty also. The AGM's might be a better option next to fuel.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 9:06am |
Mark, What falure are you speaking of?
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ultrarunner
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 8:58am |
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Learn something every day!
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samudj01
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 8:56am |
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Same location for the mid/late 80s Martiniques.
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78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409
Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
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ultrarunner
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 8:42am |
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Wow! Some engineer needs a spanking for that brain-child of an idea! I’ve see batts fail. It’s not pretty. Less pretty next to fuel would be my guess;-) I’m guessing the factory saved a few bucks on copper cable with that short run.
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10726 |
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Posted: January-27-2021 at 8:17am |
For those times when you want to stay up all night just print this picture out and keep it in a handy spot for quick reference.  I think this is a 94 Sport Nautique factory location like MechGaT mentioned for his 92  |
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ultrarunner
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Posted: January-26-2021 at 9:49pm |
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Hmmmm, battery located in the area of the gas tank would not seem ideal, or factory. Things that would keep me up at night!
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MechGaT
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Posted: January-26-2021 at 9:42pm |
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On our generation of Sport, the battery is located in the rear, under the center of the rear seat. I am on my phone and can’t post pictures, but the two blocks of wood between the rudder and shaft penetration are the blocks that hold it up off the bottom of the bilge. I am not sure my arrangement is factory. When I get some time I will try to find a picture of my battery.
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'92 Sport Nautique
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dockedwages1
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Posted: January-26-2021 at 8:07pm |
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I’m in the process of cleaning up my wiring harness. Can you tell me where to get appropriate wires and if you used heat shrink tubing to kind of keep everything together?
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ultrarunner
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Posted: January-26-2021 at 8:04am |
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Hi Ian, you're making some great progress and your workmanship looks really good.
Regarding the battery, on Sport's the BATT would be located under that forward most hatch in the center of the bow. If you look in there, you might find evidence of that by holes drilled into the glass where that BATT cables would have been run. This is the BATT location on slightly newer Sport's, and I'm guessing similar on yours. It's a good spot. Others have also added second batteries in the adjacent lockers, if you thought you would have a need. One of the folks on here will shoot you a picture of their setup on that generation of Sport. Keep the pics coming Ian. Mark This was a change from the typical Ski Nautique which has the BATT in the general location of the aft portion of where the ski locker is on the Sport.
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Ian H
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Joined: September-24-2020 Location: Hong Kong Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: January-26-2021 at 12:58am |
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Thanks, finally I am happy with the fit and the level of the stringers, I cannot really do anything on the floor fitting as my stringer positioning jigs are higher than floor level. I have finished the lifting mounts and rounded of the tops of the stringers to help with the glass.
I have been working on finishing the wiring, basically all redone from scratch badly corroded and endlessly cut about with lots of twisted fixes  . So all new. I have one simple question . Where should the battery be? there was a tractor battery under the passenger side and an isolator but no mount to fix it in place and all battery cable corroded solid. A photo of the fitted battery would be really helpful.
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ultrarunner wrote: