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New Boat- 1995 Super Sport

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    Posted: September-10-2020 at 11:41am
Hey CCF,

Got three questions for y'all.

Since Ol' Horney is taking so long to be finished, Lauren and I decided to purchase a new boat in the interim. Having grown up competitive waterskiing, we never owned a v-drive. Since we are planning to start a family and since the longhorn boat is going to be white glove only ;) I figured an older v-drive would be a great addition. I found a very clean 95 in NC with 550 hours, GT40, all original interior and carpet in excellent condition, original gauges, etc. No ballast or stereo add on's, etc. Even the gelcoat looks great. The only thing not original is the addition of the FCC system. I'll post pics soon.

The boat also came with the original OJ 14x18 3 blade. While the gt40 runs great, the prop leaves a lot to be desired. We don't wakesurf but we will definitely throw about 1500 lbs of ballast and strap on a pair of cutoff jumpers. At 26 mph, this prop put me at about 2700 rpm. The downside is that this thing is a dog out of the hole and as a result, I am actively looking for a new 4 blade.

Questions are:
1. What is the gear ratio of my trans? The stamped plate on the trans is very hard to read and cannot make out what the ratio is. The original manual from 95 lists a PCM 1:1 and PCM 1:25. The other options are Warner 1:1, Warner Reduction Gear, and Warner V-drive. Depending on who I speak to, they tell me the trans in my boat is actually a 1.48:1 but this is nowhere in the manual. I know my trans is mated to a Warner v-drive but cannot get a definitive answer on the ratio of the transmission. I have 1 1/8" shaft.
2. Those familiar with these older PCM trans/Warner v-drive combos- Have you experienced any high frequency vibration when accelerating? Once on the plane, the vibration goes away but there is still a whine. It's a weird feeling because you can feel and hear the vibration. Not sure if this is due to misalignment or bend prop?
3. What would y'all recommend for a prop? I am thinking either an Acme 536 or 644 or an OJ 13.7 x 17.

Thank you,

Dom


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2020 at 12:32pm
PCM 1:1. The reduction is done in the Walters vdrive. Yes they make noise,never noticed any vibration. Alot of extra things spinning in there. Mine came with a Acme 380. Runs around 46/47 but with these 2 and 2 in the boat it was going 41. Cant remember what Pete,triathlete had on his '96 644 maybe?
Struggled with 3 here-  I suspect if we had connected the ropes down low it would have helped,with the pole it stood the boat up like an I/O . 

with 2- 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2020 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

PCM 1:1. The reduction is done in the Walters vdrive. Yes they make noise,never noticed any vibration. Alot of extra things spinning in there. Mine came with a Acme 380. Runs around 46/47 but with these 2 and 2 in the boat it was going 41. Cant remember what Pete,triathlete had on his '96 644 maybe?
Struggled with 3 here-  I suspect if we had connected the ropes down low it would have helped,with the pole it stood the boat up like an I/O . 

with 2- 



Are you saying the boat linked above had the 644?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2020 at 12:54pm
No thats mine with the 380
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2020 at 1:39pm
Gary has a good memory. I ran a 644. You’re going to top out at 45 but the revs will be closer to 5000. Hole shot is really good. I think four guys would still stand the boat up on end though. That’s a lotto beef to pull with all the mass in the ass and the high tow point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-10-2020 at 6:18pm
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2020 at 8:18am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

No thats mine with the 380

Gary, it looks like you have some speed data for the different props... do you have corresponding rpm (wot) data?

I assume your set up is a LH GT40/1.5:1 v-drive (model/brand?) that allows the RH prop? There’s some confusion on propping the slightly earlier Excels, but there appears to have been a few different engine rotation/v-drive ratio set ups. Any insight/info you have would be appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2020 at 9:21am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

No thats mine with the 380


Thanks Gary. Could you also clarify, how many quarts of atf are you putting in your trans? Again, manual tells me 2 but I keep reading conflicting information with the "v-drive trans". I initially poured 2 into the trans but that the oil line sits almost at the top of the fill tube. I know there is a hot and cold procedure. Just seems a little off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2020 at 9:38am
If you keep an eye on the dipstick and only put in what you take out you can manage the ATF level pretty well. I used to top off the level at end of season and measure what I suctioned out as a measure of what to put back in. Never had a problem doing that.

The 30W that went into the Walters V-drive was another issue. I stopped changing it every year and went to every other year as it was always crystal clear and topped off. I kept the bilge pretty dry and as long as you don’t let the water down there get to the trans level you should never have an issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2020 at 2:46pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

 
Gary, it looks like you have some speed data for the different props... do you have corresponding rpm (wot) data?
 

Actually Tim I only had the info for the 380,I never had any others to try. It seemed to do what I needed so when a new 380 came up for 200 I jumped on it for a spare. I lost what little info I had since it was on my phone so I will have to redo that sometime. I will check the vdrive ratio as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hal2814 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2020 at 4:19pm
I had a 95 Super Sport until last year. I’m curious how they mounted the FCC. The kit for direct drives doesn’t work.

Noise? Yes. Vibration? No. How is the alignment?

As far as prop that really depends on what you want to do. I was running about 3,000lbs of ballast and wakeboarding/surfing mostly. I went to an ACME 1234 and it was amazing for that but forget top speed for that setup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2020 at 6:48pm
For obvious reasons PCM calls that a reverse riser engine. This is supposed to be the FCC bracket R090181 for that engine and the way it's made goes on the transmission side of the 5,6,7,8 cylinder bank. Hoses for the for the reverse riser are available as well.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2020 at 8:33pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

For obvious reasons PCM calls that a reverse riser engine. This is supposed to be the FCC bracket R090181 for that engine and the way it's made goes on the transmission side of the 5,6,7,8 cylinder bank. Hoses for the for the reverse riser are available as well.






I'll have to post some pictures of mine tomorrow. Our SS has the older style FCC where the low and high pressure pump are separated. The low pressure pump is hung down below cylinder 8 and the FCC canister is mounted in the normal location in front of cylinder 5 but the top of the fcc has 6" fuel riser tubes. The fuel rail hose connects to the top of these two 6" riser tubes. It's definitely a little odd. Especially compared to my DD gt40.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:07am

I've had her for about 2 weeks now. GT40 run's phenomenal, vinyl and gelcoat are in great condition. Everything is original including the wiring. Nothing modified or mutilated. Only non-factory items are a replacement headunit and the FCC upgrade. So far I've completed a full tune up. In the next few months I'll give it a little refresh:

  • Polish/buff
  • Fix the cosmetic blemishes
  • Replace observer seat cushion
  • Fix the crack on the dash
  • Replace steering cable and bilge pumps
  • Replace rudder and prop shaft packing
  • New prop
  • Throw a OEM FCT2 tower. White lower, teal upper.

Other than that, this boat is pretty pristine. Got lucky because I bought it without seeing it in person.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:11am
More pics.

















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 1:54am
I love those intakes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 11:23am
For a 25 year old boat that is in amazing shape!  Very nice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:03pm
Dominic,
Great find. Enjoy some fantastic water time with it. I too agree that it sure is in amazing shape. 

I thought I've asked before but maybe not? What photo service do you use for posting pictures? The reason I ask is the amount of time it takes to load on the thread pages. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:34pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Dominic,
Great find. Enjoy some fantastic water time with it. I too agree that it sure is in amazing shape. 

I thought I've asked before but maybe not? What photo service do you use for posting pictures? The reason I ask is the amount of time it takes to load on the thread pages. 


I used Flickr this time because it retains the image quality but in the past I’ve used Imgur. Let me know if there is a better hosting service and I’ll give it a shot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 4:18pm
Don’t mind Pete, he’s probably still on a party phone line with dial-up LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 4:26pm
Are you sure Paul ? I heard a rumor everything up that far north is carrier pigeon- unless you want to go into town for the telegraph.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2020 at 8:39pm
Sweet Find, great looking boat. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2020 at 3:11pm
Beautiful Boat! Fantastic shape for 25 years old. Enjoy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:35pm
Spent the last week completing some much needed maintenance:
  • Remove fuel tank- This was the only way to access the front bilge pump, wiring harness, and bilge hoses.
  • Bleach and pressure wash bilge from bow to stern.
  • Replace prop shaft and rudder packing
  • Install two new 800 gph bilge pumps
  • New bilge hoses
  • New steering cable
  • New fuel hoses
  • New fuel pickup tube
  • New check valve
  • New vibration pads under the fuel tank
  • Clean up exposed wire and replace old connectors
  • Pressure wash all carpets
  • Pressure wash all panels

Couple things I found when working on this 25 year old bold.
  • CHECK EVERY SINGLE NUT AND BOLT- Prior to replacing my steering cable, the helm had some pretty significant movement. I attributed this to just being old. Once I put the new cable in, I noticed from under the dash that the helm seemed cockeyed. Low and behold, the nuts holding on the lower steering assembly had backed themselves off. Each nut took 7-10 turns with my socket wrench to tighten up. Once I did this, the movement was mitigated but there was still some movement within the steering wheel itself. I popped the center cap off. The nut holding the steering wheel to the helm shaft was so loose, I could spin it off with my fingers. Once I tightened this up, virtually all play was eliminated. Steering is now buttery smooth with that new steering cable.
  • When removing the gas tank, the first time is going to a huge pain in the ass. There is very little room to slide the tank out from under the ski pylon support brackets due to the vdrive. Because the filler neck is raised off the tank, the tank hits the right side pylon support bracket and hits the front of the vdrive case when you try to lift the tank out. You have to literally pry the tank out of there. Based on the force I had to use, I knew the tank would not be going back into the boat unless I removed some of the obstruction. It was clear Nautique installed the fuel tank before the engine. I decided to cut a small notch out of the right hand side of the pylon bracket. Made reinstalling the tank a breeze. Now if I ever need to remove the tank again, it will slide right out with no curse words.















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:52pm
Very nice work. You’re restoring a keeper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHMcFadin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2020 at 4:03pm
Oh the joys of owning a 25 year old boat. So as you see above, I spent a number of hours cleaning the interior and hull of the boat. Also completed quite a bit of maintenance. I also upgraded the GT40 ECU to the newer 300m calibration. Since then, I've taking the boat out a number of times and it ran beautifly.

The last time I went out, I noticed some new water in the bilge. Replaced the shaft and rudder packing with gortex. Test drove and still had a leak. Filled the hull with water on the trailer and waited. Water started dripping from the shaft log. Turns out the 3M 5200 sealant has started breaking down after all these years. Unbolted the shaft log, slid it down to the strut and then went through a very tedious process of cleaning all of silicon off while laying under the boat. Reinstalled with new silicone and all was good. 

Took the boat out a few more times and then started to smell exhaust within the boat. Found that now one of the exhaust manifold gaskets started leaking and that one of the exhaust manifold gasket risers had been leaking. The boat sat for about a week while I waited for parts from SKIDIM. Prior to letting the boat sit, I did a pretty thorough analysis of the engine, transmission, v-drive, hoses, dash wiring, battery cables, etc just to make sure there wasn't anything else I might need. Everything checked out.

Parts came in last Friday and I brought the boat to the house. Opened up the engine hatch and noticed a small amount of red fluid sitting in the bottom of the boat under the transmission. As you guessed it, the trans has developed a small leak. I looked closely at where the fluid was dripping from and it appears to be from the seal between the transmission adapter housing. I then took note of where the small amount of fluid was pooling. It was pooling within the crevice between the shaft log and the hull of the boat. I now believe that the reason the shaft log stared leaking in the first place is that the 5200 sealant broke down due to extended exposure to transmission fluid. Could be wrong. When I got the boat from transport, there was NO transmission fluid in the bottom of the boat so it's all speculation at this point. Regardless, it looks like I will be replacing the seals in the trans.

Moving on from that issue, I circled back to what I originally was planning to repair, the exhaust manifold and riser gaskets. Got the passenger side manifold off and replaced the gasket no problem. Bolts were rusted but I purchased the complete service kit so I was going to be replacing everything including the elbows and hoses. Then I proceeded to unbolt the riser. Put my 1/2" socket to the bolt and gave it a decent amount of force. Felt and heard a "snap". Riser bolt was now sheered off within the manifold. Drivers side was in the same condition. Went to unbolt the other riser bolts. Snap, snap, snap. What was initially going to cost about $150.00 to fix is now an $800.00 repair. New manifolds and riser sare on their way from SKIDIM as we speak. I am still trying to figure out what to do with the trans. I really was not planning or wanting to do much more on this boat for the time being. I wanted to have a boat to go have fun while the longhorn boat was out of commission. If y'all know of any alternatives other than to pull the trans and v-drive out of the boat, let me know.

I love working on this stuff so I gotta laugh. It's just one of those things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2020 at 4:18pm
I suppose using an extractor that far down in the hole was not realistic, but I’m sure the thought crossed your mind. New manifolds are probably a good investment at the 25 year point anyways! You’re doing things the right way. Your interior is in great shape by the way. A few cracks on the passenger seat bottom seem to be all you’ve got to deal with. That’s incredible. On my 96, all the seat bottoms had been redone. I had to replace the rear engine cover pad and the bow triangle. If I had kept the boat, the curved pieces front and back were due for replacement. You might want to hand paint those side decal scrapes since they are NLA. I posted partial artwork for those side decals but they were lost in the website hack—not sure if anyone saved them. All I can say is you’re rebuilding that boat the way it should be done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2020 at 4:33pm
No Pete once their all off the riser separates from the lower manifold and look like this except with bolts broken off in the holes. Then it's best to find someone with a EDM machine they can then remove whats left. Drill a hole for an extractor and end up breaking one of those off in there then you do have problems. This is a PCM manifold I recently bought that had a defect right from the factory on that upper left hand hole. Had to send it back....


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2020 at 5:13pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

it's best to find someone with a EDM machine they can then remove whats left. Drill a hole for an extractor and end up breaking one of those off in there then you do have problems.

Not realy a problem. The EDM you mentioned will burn it out too.

FYI, the real fancy EDM's will even "tap" threads in hardened tool steel. The electrode is shaped like a tape and rotates as it feeds into the pilot hole. 


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