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79 nautique rebuild |
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wayoutthere 
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Joined: February-28-2020 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 391 |
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 Posted: September-12-2021 at 3:53pm |
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I didnt make any carb adjustments, i just marked, lightly closed and reset to mention it and see if it raised any flags.
This morning was a no start, pulled the plugs they were carboned up, cleaned them and no start. Noticed the carb was dry, 1 oz of gas, no touch throttle, in nuetral and it immediately fired and sounded good Took it to the gas station filled it with non eth and it's right back to were it was, hard starting, running bad and making black sooty rich smelling exhaust. Tomorrow i'll order the cap rotor and wires. Ill be totally stuck if that doesn't clear it up. Starting to sound like an over fuel problem, coincidence it cleared up and started running good right at the end of gas ?
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10729 |
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Posted: September-12-2021 at 5:29am |
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Since it runs with the new module installed and apparently no timing adjustment, you really have no idea what the timing is besides "it's somewhere in the ballpark"
It may be perfect, it may be "wayoutthere" in left field and need adjustment , so before really fiddling with the carburetor too much at all, you should verify/set the timing when you start it again. The no start after you turned it off sounds like it may be flooding itself
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-11-2021 at 4:55pm |
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 Majority of soot and i think it means rich condition was from port bank. If restart tonight i'll try for video maybe somene can hear and point something out. Like i said smoke and smells rich cleared up.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-11-2021 at 4:17pm |
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Ignition module installed, huge difference, only 2 cyl's not firing.
Made the rounds, napa had a cap no rotor, held off , everyone else had nothing but diy wires, i passed. Bought an inline spark checker, it only broke 3 times. Cleaned cap contacts with emory cloth, mild difference. Spark on all 8 but a few seemed weak, regardless it significantly cleared up and smoothed out, after running /as it ran. throttle linkage disconnect and idle linkage screw turned down to just under a thousand rpm, because it kept climbing as it cleared up. A 3 thousand rev helped it pretty good, from that point, no smoke blue white black or otherwise from either exhaust now. Revs nice but belt sqeels (spelled wrong) Let run 7-8 minutes then shut down to get timimg light. No restart sounds like no spark, but spark checker says yes. On battery charger now. Going inside for coffee and cheesecake. Port idle/air screw 3/4 out from light seat as was and left Starb idle/air screw heavy 1/2 say 7/16 out from light seat as was and left. I'll try restart and time if it plays nice in a few hours.
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KENO
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Posted: September-11-2021 at 2:06pm |
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Just can't slip nuthin' past you I guess
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 8:16pm |
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Sounds like a plan
Sorta sounds like some carb work might be in your future too maybe
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 7:49pm |
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Thanks for those numbers keno, napa in stock online only, skidim has cap rotor and wires for 11 dollars more than amazon, If no different results with new module i'll place the order monday morning.
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 6:29pm |
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For your screw down cap Prestolite here are some part numbers
Cap NAPA/Sierra 18-5352 PCM RA108003 Rotor NAPA/Sierra 18-5403 PCM R103004 Unless your O'Reilly's has Sierra parts, (the one closest to me once did) it may be tough to find something there because I don't think that screw down cap was ever used in an Automotive application that could be cross referenced. You being in Florida, you'd think they would though. You may have to visit Ms NAPA otherwise If you buy wires for a 351w in a car, truck etc, they tend to be short, but some Chevy wire sets are longer and fit better. You might want to bring your longest wire for comparison purposes.
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SNobsessed
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 5:28pm |
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Maybe try to isolate the non-firing cyl by pulling plug wires 1 at a time.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 4:10pm |
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Well i put the bolts back in frankensteins head and no leaks, but because it can't idle really not able to get down there real good.
Not firing on all 8 could be module cap rotor or wires, hope it's not carb related both primaries are wet with gas and an adjustment to the accelerator pump helped a bit. Didn't pull plugs, digital thermometer shows 100 degree difference between exhaust pprts Oil pressure showing 50, 20 at 800 rpm, it's charging, but not ran over 30-45 seconds so no temp yet. Rain now so tomorrows another day. All spark plug wires are correct, firing order is correct Have a to try list; New module 1st, then cap rotor and wires, then squirt bottle with gas. Figuring the cap rotor and wires are not marine so hopefully mr o'reilly has them on the shelf. Hard starting, runs rough, stalls under 8-900, smells rich w/ soot on transom |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 2:03pm |
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I googled and it took me to mustang something.com and found out what and why. Just got back from ace 5/8-11 allen wrench plug things, installing now. Thanks guys, hope to hear it idle today
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 1:53pm |
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Just to clarify a little, you should be able to screw a 7/16-14 bolt into the hole because the hole is originally 5/8-11 as built and there's a threaded insert screwed in that has the 7/16 -14 threads on the inside and the bolt will screw into that. The insert is dead ended( except maybe in your case it rusted through or somebody did something strange)
 One at each end of the head, both with the same thread setup. One or the other of the sizes will fit depending on what been done in those holes |
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ultrarunner
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 12:47pm |
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Bolts that resist rust in FL salt would be a good choice
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 12:28pm |
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Try a 7/16-14 bolt in there edit......or it may be a 5/8-11
It was used on cars for an EGR system. It's usually plugged inside if not used for EGR and shouldn't leak with no bolt in there, but give the bolt a try.
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ultrarunner
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 12:21pm |
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[QUOTE=wayoutthere]
 
Dan, what you are pointing to is were the OEM engine lift ring goes.  |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 11:30am |
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Im gonna go into this under the too big of a coincidence theory. The engine had a bolt in each cylinder head that stuck out about 3 inches, i figured someone had the engine out at some point. The bolts are tapered fronts then threaded, only a few threads were showing, the rest was all shank. When i pulled the engine i used those bolts and the chain dinged up the valve covers so i bought the carb lifting plate and removed those bolts. They are long gone and exhaust comes out of them when the engine runs. So ford did this ? And it's a coincidence or bad news ? I put the old ignition in just to start run and check the engine, no leaks good oil pressure and so forth but now what. I have a 1/2 -12 bolt that seems like it threads in but i thought 1/2 was 1/2- 13, maybe i measured wrong and there bigger/different or special
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 9:23am |
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Don't overthink this
Install the module and crank the engine over while looking at the timing with your timing light. You never know, it might just start If it's off by 20 degrees, you turn the distributor half of the amount it's off. For example, 20 advanced, turn it counterclockwise 10 degrees and that'll retard your timing by 20 degrees at the crankshaft where you're measuring the timing. If it's retarded, do the opposite When it's running, then set your timing at 10 degrees and tighten down the clamp
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 9:04am |
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Skidim told me there is about a 20 degree timimg difference between the modules. Some research says turning the distributor in the opposite direction of rotor rotation increases timing. The rotor turns counterclockwise, to me the new module would be advanced. rather than turning the distributor so the module is in the same place i'm thinking about moving the plug wires over 1 moving counterclockwise, because i don't know if the engine will start with 30 degrees of advance IF all things are correct 10 degrees timing plus 20 degree difference. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-09-2021 at 7:15pm |
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There was some plug/mold tinkering going on prior to the boat following me home.
Along the way the seat mold was finished and 4 seats pulled, 2 of which ended up in the boat. From some experimental material a plug was made that can be converted to a usable part once the mold gets pulled from it, the fiberglass stern tube and some other material for the second mold falls under the i wonder if category otherwise known as r&d, ski boat or no ski boat those molds and parts were going to made so after double checking pictures and receipts against eachother in good conscience they can't be tallied. Pull 1112.39 for the above puts all fiberglass & related @ 4155.05 in material. To include 2 layer staggered joint laminated 1 piece stringers, floor, custom/modded dog box and seating all made from marine ply wrapped in glass all the way thru gel and tuffcoat. Easy 20 grand from a fiberglass shop (granted their gel and polishing work would be better)
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67 ski nat
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Posted: September-09-2021 at 4:22pm |
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Very original |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-09-2021 at 4:00pm |
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Keno your pretty close, almost like you've done this before.
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KENO
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Posted: September-09-2021 at 3:50pm |
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8,122 dollars and 69 cents
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-09-2021 at 3:46pm |
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A touch over 2 thousand more than i thought off the top of my head.
1 extra +ish in fiberglass, resin, gel & tuff coat (all related) 1 extra +ish in the engine, drivetrain, gauges, controls, wiring harnesses, stereo & speakers. Still have to go into gmail for the trailer but i'd say under 400 in new axel, lugnuts, winch, paint and coupler. Lights and wiring for the trailer i had, plus all the heat shrink connectors, cushion clamps screws, looming, misc fasteners and things i had in a box that got used up in the boat, just got used, theres no receipts for any of that. i'll have to go thru all receipts again specially the local ones like lowes home depot oreilly advance ace for acetone rollers brushes rags nuts bolts fasteners consumables oil belts hoses filters plugs grease paint sand paper grinding discs, everything listed from lowes, ace etc, you know, the ole i'll just run up and grab ? Totalled $ 990.14 I want some guesses tho
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fanofccfan
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Posted: September-09-2021 at 3:17pm |
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No guess but an curious as to the total $$$!
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2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-09-2021 at 2:46pm |
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Wasn't aware the order could be placed directly.
Fuel pump is on, i used the #1 to tdc then full turn trick to install it, the hard line needed just a bit of manipulation but started at both ends easily and snugged up just fine. Rotor rotation for module install, tdc and 10 degrees all re marked. Primed with gas up to the pump, wires cleaned up then rain started. Module install, start idle, time & cable adjust tomorrow i hope. Adding receipts now, should i go thru the pain, any guesses ?
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Gary S
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Posted: September-08-2021 at 2:43pm |
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Is there a problem ordering direct from A.R.E.?
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KENO
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Posted: September-08-2021 at 1:05pm |
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The Pertronix Lobe Sensing stuff was around a long time ago, but seemed to get replaced with the kits with magnets and now it's coming back again. It seems like a case of old tech that's been recycled and hopefully improved.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-08-2021 at 10:49am |
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I just ordered the a.r.e. dual tapered shaft and coupler kit along with the removal tool from ski boat parts online (ron tanis).
Ron is running back and forth from the shop to an area that has wifi so he can process orders and get the shipping started. Power is out for another 10 days and internet is out for another 30 (both estimated timeframes) There having a tough time but are still answering the phone answering questions and processing orders. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-08-2021 at 7:37am |
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I hope it works too, it's 50 bucks cheaper. Even tho the old one works it makes sense to change it, the wires on the prestolite conversion are a little short and the rubber grommet is starting to wear out.
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KENO
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Posted: September-07-2021 at 8:56pm |
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Kinda makes you wonder why they (SkiDim) sell the PNX-91589 kit specifically for your distributor (Prestolite with the Prestolite module and the 8 vane reluctor wheel aka 8 vane doo-hickey) in their catalog I guess you'd have to say that both kits work I'd install it and make sure it fits and works right. Hope it works out for ya |
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67 ski nat wrote: