Stripped / Rusted drain plug hole |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Posted: October-30-2018 at 9:38pm |
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I need some engine expert help. I was winterizing my boat and have a problem. The aft / left side drain plug hole has rusted to the point there there are no more threads. I purchased a new drain plug and I can't get it started at all. So I am now stuck in my winterizing process since I can't pour the antifreeze in until I can put back in my drain plug.
The plugs appear to be 1/4" pipe thread. What do I do? I need to tap the block drain spot. Can I buy a tap somewhere and do this? What size? What thread? Please be specific. Do I need to take it to an engine shop? |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10680 |
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They are 1/4 inch pipe threads
If you get a 1/4-18 NPT tap you should be able to use it to make some new threads good enough to put a new plug in there. It's not the best place to be working but you can do it |
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MACS81SN
Senior Member Joined: May-27-2009 Location: NW OH / S. MI Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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Been there. Just need a 1/4” NPT pipe tap. Some hardware stores carry, maybe HD or Lowe’s. McMaster- Carr for sure. Just don’t tap in too deep as it will make the hole bigger and tough to seal because of the taper.
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Mark
1999 -SN - 502 Python 1981 - SN Owned 33 years - Sold 1968 - Mustang - Sold |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10680 |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Awesome. Will stop by ACE on my way home tomorrow. Thanks for the link too. 2010! That a good deep track there. :)
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13511 |
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Solid brass pipe plugs tend to run fatter than hollow
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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Agree on that. But, if the threads are not too far gone, meaning you have some decent resistance right away when you start the tap, I'd try putting in a petcock so you don't have to use the threads any more once you have it in. I've also used 3-4 wraps of teflon tape to add some sealing bulk on the new threads. |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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The problem is that the threads are really gone. There's nothing to "start" to grab. The part where the threads would start to engage looks like a smooth tube. The other drain plug area is fine with lots of thread. This one on the left for some reason is dealing with more rust problems. I'll tap and report back. Thanks, everyone.
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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Jonny Quest
Grand Poobah Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2859 |
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How about careful drilling to 3/8" and tapping new NPT threads? Is there enough metal to do that?
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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Certainly an option I'd suggest. Going to 3/8 pipe means only enlarging the hole .0937" (3/32") in diameter which is only .0468" (3/64") per side. |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10680 |
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Here comes the "backyard hack" in me
I'd try the 1/4 inch pipe tap whether you think it'll work or not and see what you get for results. It'll cost you less than 10 bucks or so to try it. If that doesn't work and you want to get antifreeze into it for the winter, I'd get an expandable rubber plug of the appropriate size and put that in. Here's an example in the link and they do make them small enough. A good hardware store should have what you'd need. link As far as laying on the floor with a 1/2 inch drill with a big bit (37/64), getting a straight shot at the hole with any kind of precision and then getting the 3/8 npt tap started/ finished with any kind of leverage/force................it ain't gonna be easy. The rubber plug would give you all winter to decide what to do if the 1/4 inch tap doesn't work. Disclaimer..................A really accomplished, full fledged "backyard hack" might use that as a permanent solution You could also do the drain and pour some antifreeze in and drain that out and leave it dry method for the winter. I can see Pete clutching his chest as I type this. |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7948 |
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Darn good points and advice, Ken. I once used a whittled stick to plug a hole for the winter so the engine could be pickled. It didn't become a hack job until the boat owner thought it held up so well over the winter that he could run it like that all summer.
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13511 |
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Let's not forget you don't need to plug that hole for winter...
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7948 |
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No, but if you do that, pour some antifreeze through the engine to flush the water out. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21115 |
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Good suggestions above. Have encountered this several times. Running the 1/4” tap deeper and then taping the heck out of the new fitting will almost always solve it. If clearance allows (fords aren’t usually problematic), the McMaster quick drains are nice and will prevent you from putting additional cycles on marginal threads.
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7948 |
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Does leaving the plugs out cause the threads to corrode?
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TRBenj
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Yes
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13511 |
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That's not the cause of corrosion.
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Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
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I don’t know what everyone else does, but I usually put a small amount of grease on the threads, marine grease, bearing grease, etc. it can help to act as a rust preventative if you are going to leave your plug out.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21115 |
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The water and air interacting in the exposed threads would be the direct cause... seems that leaving the plugs out would be a strong contributor to that. I’ve only lost the threads on one engine that I had maintained for a long period of time, and it occurred in the spring following the single winter where I drained only and left the plugs out. Maybe it was a long time coming but that sure seemed to speed the process. Plugs get reinserted now. |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7948 |
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I use Teflon tape and snug them up, not crank them down.
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phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6148 |
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Same here. Forgot they were out. Lucky enough thread deep in the hole cleaned up with a tap worked. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Seachoice wood emergency plugs. |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Purchased a 1/4-18 tap at NAPA on my lunch break. Will report again soon. I’m hopeful that it will be really dry so I can get a good look. Going to look at McMaster quick drains right now...
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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The McMaster part is 4921K2. It's a 1/4 with the removable stem/T handle so you can still probe the drain with some wire checking for sediment/blockage. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Kevin, One thing you should be aware of when running the tap in deep is how deep the water cavity is behind the hole. If there's not enough room, then the tap can bottom out before you get some decent threads cut. There are taps that are called "bottoming" or "short projection" where the taper is larger in diameter at the bottom of the tap. Think about trying to tap a pipe cap. In a pinch, I've cut taps shorter to get the same results. Check how deep the hole in the block is. |
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Faceplant
Senior Member Joined: July-27-2013 Location: Otter Lake , Mi Status: Offline Points: 406 |
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I thought that when you did the " drain only method " you didn't need to add any anti freeze at all ? |
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Feels like I am hanging 10 but in reality - probably hanging 6.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Jeff, Correct. If you drain only, no antifreeze is needed. |
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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I've always squirted a bit of antifreeze in each engine drain, manifold drain, raw water hose, top engine hose. Likely not needed, just an old habit. When I say squirt, I'm using a syringe so barely a few ounces total. |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7948 |
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I always put the plugs back in and pour 1/2 half gallon of anti freeze into engine, then pull the plugs again. Water always proceeds the antifreeze draining out, so if you just pull the plugs, some water remains in the engine.
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