ZDDP Question

Jonny Quest wrote: Duane in Indy wrote: Like I've said before,   add a can of Lucas ZDDP additive to your favorite oil and forget about it.   That is what it is made for. +1 on what Duane sez...

Thanks for the link Keno.

Back in the second post of this thread last summer there was a link to this thread that talked about changes in diesel oil.
CK-4 is the latest rating, it's been around for about a year now and some but not all CK-4 oil is lower in zinc with levels of about 800 or so ppm

Rotella T-4 and Valvoline Premium Blue 15w 40 diesel oil both have high zinc levels still in spite of their CK-4 rating.

Chevron Delo and Mobil Delvac, I 'll let you read the charts

With the previous rating of CJ-4 it was safe to say that any 15w40 diesel oil had the zinc levels people are looking for. With the advent of CK-4 it's now a crap shoot.

You can still find CJ-4 diesel oils with good zinc levels, you just have to read the labeling on the bottle and look at thePQIA link here to see what they have for zinc/phosphorus levels in the stuff they tested.

Straight 40 is the factory specified oil for most any Detroit 2 stroke.
Had the darnedest time trying to convince the fd leadership till i showed it in black and white, and they were still skeptical. typical.

So, sniff out where 2s detroit owners go, we'll fine the straight 40W

MrMcD wrote: Rotella and Delo are on the shelf at Walmart, SAMs and most parts stores and has the ZDDP in 15-40W. .

And the HD even stocks it!

Pete, AMS Oil has a ZDDP line for old engines. I've never used it as we use either VR1 or Straight Rotella in our boats. I have used AMS Oil 15-45 in our Malibu since new. I used to use it in my trucks, but no longer do as it is a PIA to find a shop that stocks it. Plus its expensive!

rosconole wrote: Yea just trying to get some more input for something outside of sae 40 W for 454 and changes in specifications . not an easy oil to find like it used to be and pricing all over the place.

Ross,
Are you going by what the manual says? I agree with Gary regarding multi weights:

Gary S wrote: Keep in mind the manual was written 20+ years ago things have changed

Have you considered a multi weight?

rosconole wrote: another view on ZDDP here with some options... https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/

Ross,
Did you read the article?
Regarding tappet and cam wear, I do find this statement interesting:

"Because most V-8 engines of the muscle car era came standard with flat-tappet cams, the problem is especially prevalent to classic-car and hot-rod owners. In these applications, modern oils, such as AMSOIL synthetic motor oils, are capable of providing adequate wear protection after the engine has been broken in. But due to variables like severity of service and level of modification, AMSOIL primarily recommends high-ZDDP oils in these applications"

So, they too recommend ZDDP for our flat tappets!!

To me, it looks more like an ad for Amsoil!! ,

The Multi Viscosity oils are thinner when cold. If you have leaks, you will leak more oil.
The leak could be at the valve stem seals. Thinner oil can pass more than thicker oil so this could cause more consumption.
If your Piston Rings are good they won't care what oil you run. Rings in good shape will run fine on 5-20W and not burn any oil.
If you are leaking oil past the valve stem seals, just one drop per revolution can burn a quart of oil in 400 miles. What is that in a boat? I don't know, maybe 8 hours use?
I have run both Chevy and Ford V8's in my Ski boats the last 40 years and never needed to add oil between changes. Originally I ran 30W then switched to 10-30W but for the past 5 or 6 years I've run 15-40W Diesel Engine oil ( Delo, Castrol or Rotella ) to maintain the ZDDP at a reasonable cost.
A good engine will not care what weight oil is in it as long as it has the proper lubricants and is not too thick. 50W is pretty thick oil, I would certainly not go any heavier.

Bruce, my opinion and experience is this - no difference in consumption between multi and straight weight. Difference in oil pressure is a different story, but in engines that consume oil I've seen them continue to consume oil of higher multi, or straight weight.

I have had direct experience with a change of brand/type of same weight having an effect on consumption. I have no idea why this is, but have experienced it several times.

Yep.

What you actually have is hydraulic flat tappet cam. If they were solid you would have to adjust them,hydraulic ones self adjust. Keep in mind the manual was written 20+ years ago things have changed and Ford certainly has not kept up with testing obsolete engines.   If you can find a single weight oil that has 1200 ppm of zinc go ahead and use it. Many of us use 20w 50 Valvoline VR 1. I can get it usually under 4.50 a qt. There are many oils you can use, some cost more very few if any are cheaper- check with the manufacturer many of their web sites contain that data

If the cam lobe wore enough to expose the oil passage it could be a large oil leak but that would mean a half inch of lobe was worn away. I have never seen that.
I suspect you have a plugged oil passage or a missing block plug causing pressure loss and cam failure.
Note many core blocks will sit for extended periods before they are put back in service.
If the lifter bores get rust in them they can keep a new lifter from spinning.
This alone has caused many cam failures. 5 minutes with fine Emory cloth can eliminate this.
High pressure valve springs are another common cause.
I know engine builders that will break in a flat tappet high performance cam on light pressure springs and install the stronger springs after break in to avoid failure.
Factory springs only had 75-90 seat pressure. Your triple spring package is way above that.

phatsat67 wrote: See if J-Bear can come up and assist with the internal engine work.

OMG....I will clear the calender!



john

If it comes to that I certainly will Zach. There must be a F 12 key on the back of the engine somewhere