Help Noob Determine Interceptor Engine Size

Gary S wrote: I've been working on my typing    It worked but I needed more power so I put on the 4bbl! A little nervous about the overflow but I never had any trouble with it. I did notice that with the Holley that it did start easier.

Working on my typing too, more work needed obviously but between us we got him covered on the carburetor. At least we gave him the same info.

I've had them or a variation of them on quite a few land based Fords in the 60's, 70's and 80's..

The truck that moves white stuff around in the winter still runs good with a later Autolite 2150 on it.

Gary S wrote: The numbers on that tag that's on the float bowel screw is what you need,that's an original Autolite Ford carb. Had the same on my Holman Moody. Napa might have access to a kit

I almost said Gary S can tell you about this carburetor. You're just faster than I am this morning Gary

The numbers on that tag that's on the float bowel screw is what you need,that's an original Autolite Ford carb. Had the same on my Holman Moody. Napa might have access to a kit

Did you figure out which engine you have? The casting number will give you the year. Just because the boat is a 68 doesn't mean it has a 68 engine. A lot back then had blocks and heads from the year before. My 66 Mustang had a 65 block and 64 heads. How many bolts are on the bell housing? The casting numbers will end like C8 which is 68, C7 is 67 etc.

Yo, forgive the late responses. It's a busy time of year!

So, I've gathered all your help and advice and any final questions:

Spark Plugs: Autolite 45 plugs

Spark Plug Wires: Reasonably priced suppression type wires. Should I buy wire and ends separately and make up the length needed as suggested by 8122pbrainard, or is there a fool proof way of getting them the correct length?

Engine Oil: I'll use a 15w40 diesel oil of any brand knowing you guys have all kinds of opinions on your go-to brands!    However, whatever oil I use, I'll make sure it has ZDDP content between 1200 and 1500 ppm since that is critical to protecting the flat tappet cam (whatever the hell that is )

Transmission Fluid: A Dexron 3 transmission fluid also will be just fine.

Distributor: I'll replace the points, distributor cap and condenser not the whole distributor. I'll keep in mind it's a crab cap distributor and be sure to stick with that type. I'll be sure to buy the complete tuneup kit with the cap to save money. While I'm in there, I'll check the advance springs. I'll have to do some research yet on what exactly those are and how to check them, but if they're bad, am I hearing keno correctly that I'd have to look for vintage replacements that cost a *************** load!?

Carburetor: I've forgotten to deal with the carburetor as mentioned by keno many posts above. He said it should have ID tags or info stamped on it to help identify it. Do I need to identify it and replace it? Or am I just cleaning it?

Parts: I'll be getting this stuff from NAPA down the street from me. If I understood correctly, I can use Sierra or Mallory part numbers because they are the same number and come from the same warehouse? I'm a little confused because a few posts up, Gary S said he has the same distributor and got his genuine Mallory parts at Summit. Though they're not cheap, it's good quality stuff, for example the Sierra cap has aluminum contacts while the Mallory has brass. If the part numbers are the same, how can they have different contacts? I'm hearing brass is better.

Reply to dochockey: I boat on West Lake in Portage, MI about 90 minutes from Lake James. It's August 9, and I'll definitely look into attending!   

Final things: Other than that, I'll be sure to follow the directions in the manual when doing this work. I remember seeing in there that you have drip a few drops of this on that or smear a little bit of that there and stuff like that. Once I'm done and it's purring in the water, I'll be sure to update a pic of your handiwork! You all have been so great.   

While you're in that distributor, check the advance springs. They're a little harder to come by if they're bad.

You guys are great. Your help is making this possible for me. Can't believe there's so much nuance to parts and products!

Other than hoping my new spark plus wires are the same lengths, it looks like I'm good to go. Guess I'll head over to NAPA this week(end) and pick things up unless you think I should order online from one of this sites sponsors or somewhere. Thanks!

8122pbrainard wrote: Gary, Also, As Ken mentioned, Napa can use part numbers to cross reference. I also printed out the list because my 312 has the Mallory and I figure in about 15 years I'll need a tune up! But, I'll also wait to see if you can find your list or use Kens.

It's not much of a cross referencing job, since the part numbers are the same and they come from the same warehouse in Litchfield Illinois

It's just one big incestuous industry where plenty of outfits are related through being bought out by bigger outfits and all those old names are either gone or owned by a big conglomerate.

I think it's in Quinner's interceptor thread that Pete actually admitted to having a Sierra tune up kit for his Dunphy but of course he never used it   

Quinner had the normal cap so the rotor and cap numbers would be different but the condenser and points are the same.

I have got to type faster some where though I have the official list

You of all people referring him to Sierra! Let me do some searching for part numbers,l have the same distributor,got my genuine Mallory parts at Summit. Not cheap cap is 50,points around 20,rotor about 15 but good quality stuff, for example the Sierra cap has aluminum contacts,the Mallory has brass.

The Sierra numbers will work if you go to your local NAPA store. Make sure you read the notes in the page Pete linked. Yhey'll tell you the complete tuneup kit with the cap is 18-5272 and the price is better than the individual parts

If you want some Mallory part numbers here you go

points    25042

condenser    400

cap   221

rotor 319

Keep in mind that you have the crab cap as it's called and you can't substitute a regular stack style Mallory cap because they have slightly different diameters and it would be a loose sloppy fit on your distributor.

Plenty of places on line for the Sierra 18-5272, here's one example
.
crab cap tuneup kit

Thanks Keno. That's a great help. Looks like I'm really close to having identified all the correct parts and products to get.

One final question about plug wires. When I buy them, will they automatically be the correct lengths just by telling them it's a Ford Interceptor 289?

As far as the distributor goes, I took a couple pics hoping that'll help you advice me on what to get.

It's a Mallory distributor, Model: YL   Type: 519 BO   

Thank you everyone for your knowledge and advice. You've really helped set me on the right path. Thankfully, I have not run the engine out of the water so I don't have to worry about that, but thanks for the warning. Since I read all your posts, I've done some research. I've learned some things and encountered needs for further advice/clarification.   

Spark Plugs:   The manual says Champion UF9Y plugs. They're still for sale on Ebay and elsewhere, but apparently I can simply use an alternative plug. This website here has two links to alternatives and there are different plugs listed on each one. Can someone help me figure out which is correct or if there is a superior plug I should select?

http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/UF-9Y
http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/UF9Y

Spark Plug Wires: My basic question is how do I know how to order the correct type and lengths. Am I understanding correctly that I need a stainless steel core wire for marine use? The wires are really easy to access, so would high performance wires be a waste of money?

Engine oil: The manual recommends 30w (MS) for warm weather operation. What does the MS stand for? Do I simply walk into an auto parts store and ask for it? Or is this obtained from a marine supplier?

Transmission Fluid: Automotive Type "A" suffix "A" is listed. Researching this got really confusing about which ATF to select as there are different brands and generations to sort through. It's looking like some formula of Dexron, but I could really use some guidance here!

Distributor and points: Someone told me to replace these as part of the tune-up. The manual says distributors seldom require extensive repairs. Not sure what that would mean, but should I do this? Remember, I have help from two of my neighbors who have all the tools and enough knowledge to work on their own cars their whole lives.

Other than that, I guess I need to clean the carburetor. It floods easily on a cold start and the manual says this is caused in many instances by dirt, water, or other foreign substance in the carburetor. Is this easy to do?

Again, many thanks.