Living in the country

Okie Boarder wrote: For any of you using a wood stove, are you using room (house) air or did you set it up with the fresh air kit?

Plan for a fresh air intake due to I assume will be a tight house build. I'm going through this now for the house rebuild up north. I have a Vermont Casting now in the house down here and want to go with them again. However, I'm having a real difficult time getting the exact location of the stoves fresh air intake so I can incorporate it in the wall/floor protection. VC has gone through several ownership's so I don't think anyone there knows what's going on!

turningpoint84 wrote: Random, but I noticed my biggest leak area in my house now is my damn 6" oven air exhaust vent.

What is producing the negative pressure? 6" round???

Random, but I just came across

2 - Laars 95% Boilers NXT080NXN1 and NXT080NXN2

1 - Noritz NH-150-DV

1 - Noritz NH-199 - DV

if anyone is interested...make a decent offer, they're brand new never used.

I'll definitely give CCF discount.

not products we ever see in new england but value is value wherever they are popular

service   gas units themselves?????? i hope you are joking

peter1234 wrote: if you have a door on your vent hood outside you shoudnt get too much cold back feeding . sometimes as Pete said you will get the negative pressure if say your water heater or furnace/boiler is pulling air from your living space. is your house really tight? make sure that vent door seals tight regardless.

\

Peter,
I missed this earlier, thx, and no my furnace and hot water heater pull air from the outside.

I'll check the vent.

Okie Boarder wrote: So, on the subject of the tankless units, I talked with one of our potential contractors about what he's done. He said the system he puts in does a small whole-house unit in the garage that preheats the water. Then, he uses small point of use tankless units in each area you want them. I've been doing a lot of reading about the tankless units and their pros/cons. It seems like this dual unit hybrid type approach maximizes the benefits of tankless. If we go with him for our build, we're leaning heavy towards this idea.

Not a bad idea, but idk if i'd want to buy 4-5 boilers.

turningpoint84 wrote: peter1234 wrote: service   gas units themselves?????? i hope you are joking What? I service my tankless hot water heater. Hell I installed it myself... Not sure what the issue is?

Primary and secondary heat exchanger PLC controlled along with all the other devices. Good luck!!

BTW, I googled both brands of these boilers I have never heard of looking for dealers/service. None in Wisconsin and only a rep in Illinois. Peter, put them up and ebay and see if you can get a return on your investment.

Okie Boarder wrote: turningpoint84 wrote: Okie Boarder wrote: So, on the subject of the tankless units, I talked with one of our potential contractors about what he's done. He said the system he puts in does a small whole-house unit in the garage that preheats the water. Then, he uses small point of use tankless units in each area you want them. I've been doing a lot of reading about the tankless units and their pros/cons. It seems like this dual unit hybrid type approach maximizes the benefits of tankless. If we go with him for our build, we're leaning heavy towards this idea. Not a bad idea, but idk if i'd want to buy 4-5 boilers. Why?

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

turningpoint84 wrote: Okie Boarder wrote: turningpoint84 wrote: Okie Boarder wrote: So, on the subject of the tankless units, I talked with one of our potential contractors about what he's done. He said the system he puts in does a small whole-house unit in the garage that preheats the water. Then, he uses small point of use tankless units in each area you want them. I've been doing a lot of reading about the tankless units and their pros/cons. It seems like this dual unit hybrid type approach maximizes the benefits of tankless. If we go with him for our build, we're leaning heavy towards this idea. Not a bad idea, but idk if i'd want to buy 4-5 boilers. Why? $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

From what I'm hearing from this contractor, we'd be looking at about the cost of doing a zoned system or two traditional tank style water heaters. He's thinking around $1100. That doesn't seem too bad to me.

It will be $1100 total instead of spending $xxxx on the standard whole house tank style water heater.

I think he was just talking cost of the water heaters themselves as a point of comparison. I would imagine to truly compare, I'd need to also inquire about the extra electrical costs, too, right?

Yes inquire about electrical costs too. Electrician should get the sane to wire it as the plumber gets to dope it up. Electrician may get 15% more in reality.

turningpoint84 wrote: Orlando76 wrote: It should cost $1100 just to wire 4 20a/120v insta hot. Which is nuts it's something I could do in an afternoon, myself.

NEC requires a disconnecting means for insta hots. So for each unit 120V:
20a single pole push in breaker-$8
Average of 100' of 12-2 Romex (which I'd never do) at I'm guessing $0.50 per ft for EACH unit
3' min of 12-3 SOW cord, I'm guessing $1.00 ft
4x4x2/1/8 box and RS cover-$6
1 nema 5-20p spec grade plug-$10 and up
1 nema 5-20r receptacle $8
3-1/2" nm clamp/squeeze connectors per unit-$3 each

For each unit. Thats $95 in material before screws, ground screws, stupid non metallic staples.
$380.
4 units-$1000 to install.

Now for $620 you have to run the wire.
But before all that can take place:
You have to hold a master EC license for the company with 14 hours of annual continuing education. The test and schooling is pretty brutal and $, if you fail start and pay again. Post bonds and liability insurance through a company. Workers comp. Annual state fees. Annual local municipality fees. Pull the permit for the job (just 4 units if the house was already built) $75 average and 2 hours. Meet and wait for the rough inspection and final inspection. If you fail $150 reinspection fee, start over again. Now, with what might remain from that $620 you have too:

Wait for finishers, wait for the cabinets to be set, wait for plumber to finish. THEN you have to crawl into that cabinet and wire the unit.

Sure you could hire last weeks orange picker for $10 to jerk the jerk-mex. You'll have a real good reputation 20 years later.
Or you hire a worker who has a chance in this world (IBEW $27-35 hour here) pay their medical, retirement, supply them with a stocked truck and auto insurance and proper tools to do a proper job. And a chance to have a family and and further education.

End of my soap box, I apologize. Back to Living in the county.

I figured it at the min per NEC. Note I said I'd never use jerk-mex and never 12ga. Even when EMT is required, sow in less than 6' would be legal without the greenfield sleeve, again per NEC min.

Side note- being a house, even though it's a dedicated circuit using a single chassis receptacle (non duplex), I'd bet inspector would require it be GFIC protected and I agree.... Add another $50 per unit.