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79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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    Posted: July-20-2005 at 3:58pm
Does anyone know what the porp shaft length is for a 79 ski nautique 351w 1:1 velvet drive 4" coupler? Trying to figure out the right length to order parts so I can fix it on the lift in a hour and not have to but it on the trailer to fix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2005 at 5:12pm
Give Woody a call at SECC. He knows everything and I bet they even have one in stock. I believe that delta prop co has them as well as skidim.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2005 at 5:51pm
Midwest CC said it was a 50" shaft, what's your thoughts on double vs. single taper?

Bill you mentioned on another thread that CC shortened the distance between the back of the prop and the strut. should I take an extra 1/2" or so off of this length to improve the operation of my boat?
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2005 at 8:57am
Good thread... I need the same information because yesterday my shaft BROKE! We've been using the boat 4-6 hours per day lately and everything has been great. ...Then yesterday after our last pull of the evening, one of the little girl passengers asked "can we go really, really fast?", so I hit it and just as I got up to speed (~45mph), the shaft sheared right in front of the prop.

Anyway... I've been considering shortening my shaft as Bill has recommended, but I don't have the exact length to order, so If anyone can help that would be great. My '78 Martinique hull is the same as the Ski Nautique hull, so I assume my shaft length is the same.

Also, who has the best price on a new shaft?
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2005 at 12:48pm
79...:

I recommend the double taper shaft for two reasons:

1) No more worries about pulling the shaft out of the coupling when backing down hard.
2) I believe it gives a more square fit to the coupler for better shaft coupler alignment/trueness.

Also, my '77 Martinique has quite a bit of distance between the prop and strut. I have heard that this can cuase a bit of vibration as the shaft can flex between the prop and strut. My '93 SN has only about 1" of space between prop and strut. The '77 more like 3 or 4 inches. If you shorten the shaft, make sure it does not put the prop too close the hull as this will cause other undesirable problems. What is too close? Good question, but certainly no closer than an inch and probably more clearance is better.

Keep in mind that if you go to a double taper shaft, you will need a new coupler which is not cheap. I purchased a billet aluminum coupler that set me back about $110.00. The shaft was about $170.00 (including machining costs for custom length). I purchased the parts through my local prop shop from McDurmon Distributing. You can get shafts in many different prop end styles that use either: jamb nut, nylock nut, or castle nut. I went with the nylock style.

Jameski:

I would measure my drive shaft ('77 Martinique) for you, but I am not sure how to do it with the shaft in the boat. CC should be able to give you the factory length and then you would have to decide how much to reduce the overall length to bring the prop closer to the strut. Are you running a 13RH13 prop? If so, I believe there is plenty of space between prop and hull to play with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2005 at 1:29pm
I concur with David, double-taper is the way to go.

The couplers on single-taper shafts othen skew from square when the retaining capscrews or setscrews are sinched down, making engine alignment less precice and often a compromise.

The double-taper chafts keeps the coupler exactly square to each other and permits one to align the engine with high precision, and the results are smooth and quiet.

Lap the prop to the shaft, and observe how far it seats without the keyway, then make certain the it sits the same with the keyway before tightening. then if the strut bushing are in good shape, the result is a very quiet and smooth boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2005 at 2:20pm
David F,

Thanks anyway for the offer to measure your shaft. I don't know of any way to measure it in the boat either. I am a little worried about hull clearance if I shorten my shaft. If I remember correctly, I barely had an inch (maybe 7/8"?) with my 13X12 Michigan. I can't measure now, since my prop is on the bottom of the lake. I'll put the boat on the trailer tonight and do some measuring I should be able to determine prop clearance with a tape measure using what's left of my shaft (it broke right where it started to taper - just in front of the prop).

I think I might go with the double taper shaft as well. Sounds like the benefits might outweigh the cost. Where did you buy yours... and did you do much price comparison? What kind of puller do you use to remove the coupler from the tapered shaft? My prop puller was custom made by a machine shop and it uses three bolts - I guess it wouldn't work on a coupler - since it takes four. I have another puller that accepts 2 or 3 bolts, but the center bolt is about 6 or 8 inches long... Would it fit between the shaft log packing nut and the transmission coupler?

79nautique,

Did Midwest CC say how the 50" is measured? is that tip to tip?
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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2005 at 7:29pm
The ARE coupling is threaded on the backside; (tranny side) They give you a special threaded insert that you screw into the coupler after you release it from the tranny flange and remove the retaining nut. A spanner to hold the coupler is available but most anthing can substitute. Apply torque to the insert with a wrench, and the insert presses out the shaft; no banging, no pulling, no cursing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2005 at 9:41am
BC,
Yes, the prop needs only the distance to be able to put a puller behind it. However be careful that all prop bores are not the same. Take the props if you have more than one and without the key and mark the one further up the shaft you use that spot.
Also that you have at least 1/4 in on top. With the power you have you will see the performance change.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2005 at 11:12am
Well, I've done a little more checking around and I have another question: What material should I use for my new prop shaft? I have found that they are commonly made out of at least 4 different materials: 303 Stainless, Aquamet 19, Aquamet 22, and K-500 Monel. The 303 is the cheapest by far ($108.50) and from what I have read, it is supposed to be good for up to around 300hp. Should I go for the 303, or pay up to $366.94 for the best material out there?

BTW, when I talked to Woody at Southeast CC, he said they don't carry the double taper shafts and he doesn't recommend them. He didn't say why.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2005 at 5:45pm
I don't know if my boat has the original strut, but I noticed that if I shorten my shaft, I will have a VERY small clearance between my prop and my hull. I've been running a 13" dia. prop with about 3/4" hull clearance at 2" behind the strut. If I run a 12" dia. prop, I will have less than 1/2" hull clearance at 1/4" behind the strut.

Here are some pics:








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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2005 at 5:55pm
Would there be any advantage to running the 12" dia. prop closer to the strut, over running the 13" prop on the standard 50" shaft?

I've heard that running a prop at less than 1" hull clearance can cause gel coat scouring and possibly more noise. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Any recommendations?
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2005 at 3:57pm
Bill both of my props are located within 1/8 inch of each other on the taper. I will have to measure the spacing from the strut but the 1/4 is confussing me. It sounds like you're saying that the prop can come within a 1/4 of the underside of the haul? I would think this is a little close?

Will I have the shaft on order already and it is made out of the harder material little under 200 bucks but I may have to shorten it a little but may wait til the off season to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2005 at 8:10am
The reason for the clearance is in the event the hull has excessoive flex in it. The props usually burnish the jell coat behind the rudder, the water follows the top of the rudder post.
All CC with the engine in the rear use a stainless plate in this area so as not to burn holes in the gell. I have a plate in my hull to stop this.
When you get a new shaft, If you are squemish,use the old one and try.With too much power the boat wants to roll on the chine,All my wheel are now 12 inn dia.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2005 at 11:29am
thank you kind sir
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2005 at 1:35pm
How do you mount the stainless plate in your hull? Do you have some typical dimensions? Would it start just aft of the strut and continue past the rudder to the transom? What thickness/gage stainless?

Thanks for your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2005 at 7:38am
I routered the bottom enough to keep the plate level with the bottom. Doesn't need to be a huge plate, just enouh to cover the affected area. Use libreral 5200 and stainless screws.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2005 at 12:10pm
Well I went with a 49.5" shaft instead of the 50" which was the stock length. It leaves plunty of room behind the prop for the puller and there is a tons of room to the haul using a ACME 470 prop or a federal 13x14 prop.

The performance difference is amazing. Once I got it aligned and got all of the vibration out it picked up another 500 rpm and the midrange to top end throttle responce is wicked. It seems to create a little more lift so it rides out of the water more when wide open. It was fun watching my buddies feeeeeble attempt to catch me in their runabouts.

I forgot to right down the shaft manufacturer but I was impressed when I recieved it. It's a single taper shaft with machined recess' for the set screws (no worry about hiting reverse). The set screws where machined 120 degrees apart and directly opposite of the keyway. With this screw placement it will center the coupling so alignment isn't an issue.
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