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Impeller change?

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Warpman89 View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-03-2011 at 9:55pm
I have been looking at boats for sale on this site and many descriptions say "the impeller was changed every year". I assume this is the impeller for the water pump, so is it necessary to change this on a regular basis? How much do they cost and are they readily available? Is it a big job or can most people do it? Thanks

BTW mines '75 with a 351
Stu

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bama Nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-03-2011 at 10:17pm
They are not too expensive and pretty easy to replace. I replace mine about every 3 years and usually keep an extra one in the boat for an emergency. Keep an eye on this post and I am sure someone will post a picture and some pretty straight forward instructions.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-03-2011 at 11:11pm
Warpman,
Welcome to the site! The impeller is one of the easiest things to do and should be part of routine maintenance every year depending on how many hours you put on your boat each year. It's easy and one of the things you don't want to fail.

Loosen the belt that goes to the water pump (prob through alternator on a 351). Then take out the two bolts that attach the pump to the block. It's a good idea to mark which way is up on the pump so you don't re-install backward (take it from a guy w/first hand experience). Take the pump apart carefully (prob three bolts). There will be a small gasket in between the two halves. Take it out (the new one should come with the impeller) and replace. Look to see which way the tines are bent on the old impeller and install the new one so the tines bend in the same direction. You may need to clean the edges of the two halves of the pump so it matches up well. Put it back together being careful not to strip the bolts that hold the pump together. Reinstall pump on block--right side up! Tighten the belt. Wvalla!

There may be a couple secrets to this that I'm leaving out, but it's pretty straight forward. I'm not a mechanic and I can do this. Go for it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-03-2011 at 11:12pm
I should add that I haven't replaced my impeller every year, but do check it each year to make sure there aren't any broken tines or severe stress.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Warpman89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-03-2011 at 11:57pm
Originally posted by The Dude The Dude wrote:

Warpman,
Welcome to the site! The impeller is one of the easiest things to do and should be part of routine maintenance every year depending on how many hours you put on your boat each year. It's easy and one of the things you don't want to fail.

Loosen the belt that goes to the water pump (prob through alternator on a 351). Then take out the two bolts that attach the pump to the block. It's a good idea to mark which way is up on the pump so you don't re-install backward (take it from a guy w/first hand experience). Take the pump apart carefully (prob three bolts). There will be a small gasket in between the two halves. Take it out (the new one should come with the impeller) and replace. Look to see which way the tines are bent on the old impeller and install the new one so the tines bend in the same direction. You may need to clean the edges of the two halves of the pump so it matches up well. Put it back together being careful not to strip the bolts that hold the pump together. Reinstall pump on block--right side up! Tighten the belt. Wvalla!

There may be a couple secrets to this that I'm leaving out, but it's pretty straight forward. I'm not a mechanic and I can do this. Go for it!


Thanks for the reply, that doesn't sound hard at all.
Does anyone know what typically causes an impeller to fail? And what indicates that it has failed while operating the boat? High Engine temp?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bama Nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-04-2011 at 12:28am
Originally posted by Warpman89 Warpman89 wrote:

Originally posted by The Dude The Dude wrote:

Warpman,
Welcome to the site! The impeller is one of the easiest things to do and should be part of routine maintenance every year depending on how many hours you put on your boat each year. It's easy and one of the things you don't want to fail.

Loosen the belt that goes to the water pump (prob through alternator on a 351). Then take out the two bolts that attach the pump to the block. It's a good idea to mark which way is up on the pump so you don't re-install backward (take it from a guy w/first hand experience). Take the pump apart carefully (prob three bolts). There will be a small gasket in between the two halves. Take it out (the new one should come with the impeller) and replace. Look to see which way the tines are bent on the old impeller and install the new one so the tines bend in the same direction. You may need to clean the edges of the two halves of the pump so it matches up well. Put it back together being careful not to strip the bolts that hold the pump together. Reinstall pump on block--right side up! Tighten the belt. Wvalla!

There may be a couple secrets to this that I'm leaving out, but it's pretty straight forward. I'm not a mechanic and I can do this. Go for it!


Thanks for the reply, that doesn't sound hard at all.
Does anyone know what typically causes an impeller to fail? And what indicates that it has failed while operating the boat? High Engine temp?


It is basically just a piece of hard rubber and it will eventually wear out from use. If you notice your engine running hot and you havent replaced it in a couple of years then that is probally the problem.

I found a couple of pics on yahoo and posted them.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2011 at 6:22pm
I used this page when changing mine, and found it to be good:
Aqua Skier Impeller Change

Actually, your boat essentially has two water pumps. The circulation pump (which is just the same as a car's water pump) and the raw water pump. The impeller that everyone is talking about is in the raw water pump. Actually, it's not attached directly to the block, it's attached to a bracket.

I found that a set of SAE "GearWrench" Wrenches was pretty useful for this. Although, I only needed one or two from the set, it made it a little easier than a socket and ratchet or traditional combo wrench.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 5:02pm
I have nevr had any problems yet. I follow every 100hrs or 2 years. I hope this helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2011 at 5:06pm
I have nevr had any problems yet. I follow every 100hrs or 2 years. I hope this helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Warpman89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2011 at 10:03pm
What model # sherwood impeller pump do I have on my 75 351 pcm? Anyone know what the part number is for the impeller?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2011 at 12:37pm
I believe they're all the same for PCM Sherwood:
Impeller Kit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H2oXtremes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2015 at 11:45pm
So I removed my water pump to replace the impeller then reinstalled it to only strip out one of the threads. I re tapped the hole and now my issue is I cannot remember which way the pump gets mounted back to the engine. I have a 1985 Ski Nautique 2001 with a 351 Ford. I have google imaged as much as I can and cannot find a clear picture of which direction the water pump gets mounted. Can anyone please post a picture of which way the water pump gets installed back onto the engine would be great.

Thank you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2015 at 12:14am
If you have the original right hand turning PCM engine your pump should be mounted like this,with the cam screw facing out-


If the engine has been replaced with a left hand turning one,like whats in a car the screw faces in-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H2oXtremes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2015 at 12:26am
Perfect! thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tshetterly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2015 at 11:12pm
Gary, in the top photo (right hand drive) does the pulley turn clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2015 at 11:16pm
Counter clockwise
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foxriver Rat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 1:52am
Gary S,
Curious to know if you have rebuilt this pump? I have a Sherwood 12328 off an '82 with a 351 that fried out the bearings. I was able to disassemble the pump, with some choice words, and now have two empty housing halves and a marred impeller shaft from grinding those two sets of bearings. Are you aware of rebuild kits that would cover all the internal parts as well as the shaft? I can not tell if the shaft was pressed or threaded into the pulley as well. Thanks for any ideas or directions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrazyCanuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 2:37am
If your pump is like this one, the bottom post has a part number for the impeller....

water pump thread
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foxriver Rat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 2:53am
Thank you for the heads up. I have two brand new impellers thinking my problem was a toasted impeller and ordered an extra as a just incase spare. I've completely torn down this pump and now vacillating between rebuilding, buying a rebuilt or purchasing a newer version based upon availability. There is some sticker shock with the new pumps.
Thanks,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 10:09am
Rich I assume you have a Sherwood G21 pump,the number you quote, 12328 is actually the part number of the body. The shaft,part # 13363 is available but you need a press to remove the pulley and reinstall on the new shaft. I have rebuilt 3 this spring. Only one had a bad shaft but I had parts from another pump that had a bad body. So I have never needed to remove a pulley.There are kits by Sherwood but none include the shaft. I was able to find a better quality bearing for 1/2 Sherwoods price on eBay and sourced the seals and clips there too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 11:22am
Could the shaft be saved with a speedi-sleeve?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 12:35pm
It goes bad where it runs in the bearings Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foxriver Rat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 12:47pm
Gary, I can only assume it's the 21 based on discussions but not 100%. A G20? There is one issue that has me wondering if I really screwed up. While disassembling the pump I had to remove a part from the housing that resembles a bunt cake pan. It was, past tense, a brass "cup" and I have not seen one schematic showing this part. From memory the spring/tension seal sat in this cup and created a seal to the underside of the wear plate, my words, opposite the impeller housing. Do you know if this part is a factory install?
Thank you,
Rich

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 3:51pm
That is the seal Rich,number 14 on page 2 of this pdf link
Here is a new one,they have paint on them when new for some reason



Another thing I have found in their instructions is that they tell you to press the seal back in the housing before installing the shaft but you cant because of the circlip that goes on the shaft just before the bearing. Same deal when taking it apart the seal has to come out first so you can get to the clip.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foxriver Rat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 4:16pm
So it does exist! I figured so but never saw a diagrahm with the seal. What was your rebuild time once all parts were gathered together? Also, where did you purchase the seal? I see you shopped the bearing and some other parts off eBay.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foxriver Rat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 4:27pm
Is this a new seal design? Mine had a defined "W" cross section and this seal looks more like a plug. I saw this PDF prior and didn't connect what they show vs. my seal.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 4:35pm
Now would be a good time for you to come forward with pictures, like Gary has done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 4:39pm
Takes way longer to clean them up than to assemble them,once their painted and you have the parts on hand they go together I would guess in 10 minutes. I got everything off of ebay,shopping for price and shipping. Sometimes you need a new end plate #7. Last one I got is stainless rather than brass which will be interesting since that pump is for a saltwater boat,which is the reason that pump looks nasty inside. I bought a whole Sherwood rebuild kit for this pump rather than buying them piecemeal but was not happy with the bearing quality. I have just redone 3 pumps they originally had NTN bearings in them. The new ones in the kit were not but I cannot remember whos they were. 2 pumps I bought NTN's for turn smoother than the other bearings supplied in the kit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foxriver Rat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 4:43pm
Hollywood,
I'll post this evening so you can see my old parts. Which of these icons lets me post pics?
Thanks

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2015 at 6:32pm
Maybe your thinking how it looks when you take it apart and the seal comes off it's holder,the cake pan?

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