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318 Block

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Chris View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-25-2005 at 2:12am
I have a 1972 S/N with a 318 and a cracked block. How do I find out what I can use for a replacement. The motor still turns and ran fine when it was put away. So I can use the heads and front cover assembly. Does anyone know how compatible the 318 block is withvarious years? Thanks.

Chris
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kenny g View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenny g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2005 at 10:03am
1968 to 1974 the 318 is the same block.
kenny g
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2005 at 11:00am
You can use the block as a core on a Jasper engines and transmission short or long block and reuse all of the good parts. Most re-man outfits will not take a craked or junked block and charge you a pretty good core charge if it is not re-buildable, Jasper's only criteria is that it cannot have a visable hole on the outside of the block and you get full credit for the core and a 18 month warrenty. Also if you want something a little stronger than what you had ask for a Class II long block.
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tleed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tleed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2005 at 2:29am
You can use an automotive 318, or is the marine 318 different?

And is there any good reason not to jump up to a 340 or 360 if you have to get a new block?

Thomas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2005 at 3:19am
Auto and marine blocks for that engine are the same.

Motor mounts are in a different position. Are you up to relocating your motor mounts? I wouldn't. If you have the danolia to spend stick with a 318 block (for ease of mounting back into the boat) get a set of post '72 340 or 360 heads (they're everywhere, cheap, and have larger runners and valves than the 318 heads), get a stock 340 cam, a 600cfm 4v and you will have a smokin' mill. Be sure to get an intake to match whatever heads you get. Your compression will drop a lot with the 340/360 heads but their flow capability will help out the cam and 4v carb and will let you run cheapo gasoline.

Then agian, if you don't mind moving your motor mounts there is no substitute for cubic inches.

I miss my Mopar.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2005 at 12:31am
I'm with J.I.H. and BC on most of this. Make note however that should you go larger, the 360 block is not directly interchangeable and you'd need another oil pan, but no big deal. The blocks are easy to find. If you're going to do an entire rebuild and not go with the Jasper, then I'd go the 340 route if you can find the block. It'll run you probably $3-400 more than the 318, but all the rest of the parts should be nearly identical in price. I've got several of the 340 HP spec rev. rot. cams still available, which will also work with the 318 of course.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2005 at 1:39am
Let me add that the 273 is still my favorite Chrysler small block. It's light and has a low deck height - it can fit into small spaces and is very capable of 300+HP.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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