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’83 "2001" New Problems

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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 2:02am
IMHO the compression is liveable. For a nice picture of your distributor showing the firing order cut and paste this URL into your browser address bar:
http://www.carmemories.com/cgi-bin/viewzoom.cgi?image=2055

As long as you are going to set the timing after you are done you can pretty much set the dist in the block anywhere you want as long as the dist rotor is pointing toward the terminal to which you are connecting the number 1 cylinder when the balancer is at TDC AND the number 1 cylinder is on it's compression stroke. (The dist rotor makes one complete revolution for every two revolutions of the balancer.)

Once number 1 is wired just follow the drawing all the way around.

I can't help you on the jumper wire.

*****************

Warning! The pic I referenced is for an automobile engine with "standard" direction rotation. Your marine engine may very well be and is probably a "reverse rotation" engine meaning the spark plug wires must be connected in the opposite rotation of the pic that is referenced above.!!!! Know what you are doing! In other words, if your 351 is a reverse rotation engine your firing order will be 8-4-5-6-2-7-3-1!!!! Someone please confirm this!
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 2:10am
Oh man! Important info I need to add. Your engine is probably a "reverse rotation engine" meaning you should run the wires in the opposite direction of those shown in the PIC I referenced. This is crucial and I am considering pulling down my post. The pic I referenced is for an automobile engine!!!!!!! If you wire your engine according to the pic I posted your engine could be damaged!!!!!!! I am going to edit my above post.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 2:40am
According to the service manual it states, "Distributors on all models, regardless of engine rotation, turn counter-clockwise, viewed from the top on Ford engines and CW on Chebby's". So I think your pic is valid no matter what rotation. The firing order on the page is incorrect. Mine is 1-8-4-5-6-2-7-3.

So....thanks for the pic. I think it is okay unless someone else chimes in with evidence to dispute our claim.
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 2:42am
I was hoping not to have to take the distributor out, or loosen it, thus disturbing timing in that manner. Let me know if my assumptions are incorrect. I do have a timing light and dwell meter to check the settings.
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SS 201 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 7:53am
Ford engine all run dist counter clockwise no matter what the engine rotation is.Only the firing order is different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 11:35am
You should definately get the electronic conversion kit. Your distributor plate and points are full of rust. The conversion will pay for itself in a couple of years just by not having to mess with points again.

That voltage drop to 6 volts at the distributor is too much. Gottaski is right about the poor wiring in the Nautiques. your guage problems probably come from the wiring inadequacies and/or corroded/loose contacts.

Got to Holley.com. It does sound like you have a 4160, and Holley does not list the specs. The specs were left to correctcraft to determine. Look around on the site, they have a Holley repair manual there specifically for the Marine carb series. If your list is 81265, the specs are not listed, but I can give the info I used from C/C.
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 11:56am
Good point on the pic. You are correct. It's the firing order that is backwards!

You probably will not have to yank the dist. It's just easier to work on on a bench and it comes out pretty easily.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 3:46pm
Skyhawk...For now I have ordered a renew kit for the distributor that includes new cap, rotor, points, and distributor. I do agree that the plate and such looks pretty corroded. I will probably get the electronic conversion towards the end of the season. Just need to get it up and running good for now to get the wifey off my back for getting rid of the '77 (which had no problems at all) and buying the '83 (have replaced starter, and now full tuneup coming). Still I am well under a grand for the upgrade to the "2001" with all the needed parts. Plus, it's bigger, throws a way phatter wake, and has better resale potential. It is still hard to get her to see it that way though.

Peace
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Bob's2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob's2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 7:35pm
I have an 83 also and I just put in a marine renew kit for my 4160 Holley. I got it from Summit Racing for less than SKIDIM or Jeg's and a LOT cheaper than the local places. The list # on my carb is 9392.
Bob Ed
83 2001
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2005 at 9:04pm
I ended up ordering from skidim b/c I was getting a bunch of other stuff. I wish I would have known sooner. How much at summit?

How was the install for the renew kit? Did it make much of a difference?

Thanx
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2005 at 12:59am
I put on the new plug wires and routed them to the old distributor cap just to see if they were all the right length for the location. I have one on the #8 cylinder is a little short to route it with the others.

My question: Are these wires (quality Belden) able to handle the heat if I have to route it around the back of the manifold and along the valve cover/intake manifold? I can probably make a few brackets to make sure that it doesn't make direct contact with the heads. I got these wires from Napa b/c skidim had theirs on backorder and needed them ASAP. I guess I can get them to make me one longer, but hopefully I can get these to work and get me up and running.
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gwatson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2005 at 2:41am
Run the wires around the front of the engine. This will save on the length witch will reduce resistance. I used the vertical wire loom from century performance. I posted a topic on the issue. This secured the wires to the first bolt on the valve cover closest to the distributer the remove the other mounts from the clips and just use them as seperators. Worked killer and really clean. Go for the electronic ignition. Really. I have the same issue with my 351. Low voltage. The voltage drop your getting is normal unless the engine is running. The balist resistors are measured under full power. If you do the MBI distributer, be aware that the voltage will be low and then spike high when the the module triggers. My system was all around 12vdc with my module unpluged. When I pluged it everything droped. Positive side to 3.75 and negitive side to .94. been on the phone to Mallory for hours. Sent off my modules and all is fine! Remember that the coil stores voltage, that's it's job. It gets triggered by the negitive side to release power to the cap. good luck with it all. I have the mallory ylm 554cv with the 609 module and a epoxy coil. 7mm wires and plat plugs gaped at 35. Once you have the ignition solved and it runs bad, you know it's the carb!
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2005 at 2:55am
I have the wires running around the front. Isn't that they way they are supposed to be? Or do you mean you run them up between the manifolds and valve covers to the front?

I will have to regap the plugs, b/c the ones I got, I think, are plats that are gapped at .040.

I have been reading up on distributors on how to setup the dwell and adjust the points, so hopefully all will go well when I try to replace the points and condensor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob's2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2005 at 3:26am
The renew kit was not too hard to install, just time consuming. It included power valve, gaskets, needles & seats,O-rings,etc. Most of the time was spent on cleaning, dipped in carb cleaner(which is some evil stuff, I read the cautions on the label!)The price was about $3 less at Summit than SkiDIM and $20 less than local. Finally got the carb reinstalled and running today. That old Ford still sounds sweet. I haven't had it on the water yet but it sure does start easier.
Bob Ed
83 2001
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gwatson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2005 at 3:45am
Don't run the wires between the valve cover and the manifold. Just use the vertical loom kit on the first bolt on the cover closest to the dist. Then route them down the regular way.
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2005 at 12:52pm
The plugs that I got are gapped .040". Should I regap them or do yall think they will work. They are Bosch platnums if it makes any difference.
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2005 at 11:43pm
Alright guys, I need your help ASAP. I got the point changed. New rotor, and cap. I set the dwell with a dwell meter to right at 26 degrees(the spec is 24-29).

When I go to start it up, it starts to catch, but then it backfires and dies. Any ideas? Could it be that I need to gap the plugs down to .035" from .040", or do I have different problems.

I am dead sure that I got all the plugs and wires hooked up correctly in the right order. The number one plug is straight aft on the cap, but twisted slightly clockwise from that point. It seems correct that it should be twisted that way to get 6deg BTDC. I did not adjust or loosen the distributor from the block.

Please Help!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2005 at 12:08am
My 289 backfires violently and even starts a fire above the carb when my timing is a little retarded. It does this right after it sounds like it is about to start. I discovered this the first time I had my distributor out. It sounds good and then BAMM! In my case turning the dist. to advance the timing a little, solved the problem. I was able to get it started so I could throw a timing light on it.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2005 at 2:16am
Woohoo!!!!!!! I got it running. I have to retract my statement about getting all the wires in the correct order. I must have had a brain fart and had two wires wrong. I ended up taking all the wire off again. I then used the thumb over the cylinder head spark plug hole trick to make sure I was at TDC on #1. Then I proceeded to rewire the plug wires one-by-one and triple checking it. When all connected back together..she fired up on the first crank.

Sounds pretty good. Just got to replace the impeller tomorrow, and then, for the water test. If all goes well, I will probably hold of on doing the carb if it seems to be running well. Oh yeah, I need to find another timing light to verify the advance. I did get it adjusted pretty well with the dwell meter.

Overall, I am stoked to be able to do the points, etc. I became a master at pulling the cap off, and adjusting the points in the process. I'm not sure how anyone would adjust them perfectly without a dwell meter. The feeler guage, and recommended point gap was only a starting point.

Thanks for all the help guys, and I'm sure I'll let yall know if it still runs rough after all is said and done.

Cheers
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2005 at 3:27am
I got the impeller replaced, and started it up. I checked the timing with the light, and it was right at 6 deg TDC. I let her run for about an hour. Seemed to idle good, and run good at 1800rpm for a while. It did seem like if I ran it up to 3K it seemed to miss slightly.

What adjustments do yall think I could make to make it run smoother top end? Carb mix?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2005 at 5:35am
Make sure all of your wires are pressed in tight on the cap and on the plugs. They can fool you and cause a miss.

Also, I do not know the specs on your engine but 6 deg. sounds a little low. I have been running my 289 at 18 Deg. initial advance but I am going to adjust it back to 14 Deg tomorrow. I think the specs on the 289 call for 10 Deg initial timing. Get some other opinions on this for your engine before you adjust it though.

I would run a tank of gas through it (if it is not a real bad miss) just to see if it clears up.

If it doesn't clear up and advancing the timing does not clear it up and all of the plugs wires are tight I would get rid of the points. Now is the time for the conversion. I'm sure others that have made the conversion will chime in and agree.

My experience is that I was living with a "slight" miss at the high end (3000 and up). I could adjust the points and it would clear up for a short while and then I had to adjust again. It was never ending. I went with a Petronix conversion because of the low price (about $75.00 I think but I don't remember where I bought it - somewhere online) and my boating pleasure increased dramtically. The miss has been gone forever and the engine starts noticably easier.

I bet you and the wife are relieved. Have fun and always remember the question my girlfriend asks everytime we go boating: "Did you put the plug in?"

Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2005 at 11:27am
Originally posted by Jim_In_Houston Jim_In_Houston wrote:

Have fun and always remember the question my girlfriend asks everytime we go boating: "Did you put the plug in?"


Is that what kids are calling it these days?
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billgatesceo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 12:35am
We took her out today, and for the most part she ran great. Started up everytime. Idled perfect. There is definately something still wrong with the top end of the rpm range.

It would only top out at about 35MPH, and 3200rpm. It I put it all the way down(throttle), you could hear it miss and bog slightly. Good think that wakeboarding is only about 2K rpm, so it worked great for us. Just had to remember not to punch it full throttle to pull up the boarder.

So my ideas of the problem:
1) mechanical advance not working correctly
2) still have old plug wires (skidim was backordered, but ordered some anyway, should be here on Tuesday). I was trying the ol' pull a plug and see if it runs rougher trick to make sure all the cylinders were firing. On number #7 and #8, it didn't seem to make as much of a difference, plus, when I pulled the wire off, it was continually shocking the hell outta my hand. I could have a couple of bad wires.

I guess I can check the advance with a timing light rev'd up to high rpm. Anyone know what the timing is supposed to be at higher rpm's. I'm pretty sure from the service manual that idle timing should be 6deg BTDC.

Thanks....Almost there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 2:10am
http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/timing.htm

Check it out. This is an awesome article.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 11:05am
Great article Jim. Now all I need to do is figure out what cam duration I have (to determine optimum static timing) and what heads (comustion chamber) I have (to determine optimum maximum timing). The engine mods on my boat were done by a previous owner and I don't know what parts they used.
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94 Sport Nautique
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78 Martinique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 2:13pm
So it sounds like a timing issue? From a dead start, if I full throttle it, it seems to bog, and I have to accelerate at half throttle.

Thanx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billgatesceo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 2:21pm
Anyone know the correct timing specifications for a "stock" engine (idle, high rpms), so that I have a basis to work with?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 5:48pm
I set my timing at 10 BTDC at idle and reved up to 3000 rpms and it advanced to 30 BTDC.
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