floor repair and exploration |
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teelta ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-22-2012 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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I noticed the pylon cup in the bilge is slightly loose. I am unable to pry it loose with moderate pressure. Can I reinforce it by fiberglassing it to the hull?
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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I would grind it out and then glass it back in. You want to make sure you don't have any voids. |
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teelta ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-22-2012 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Other than glass around it on the sides, how is it attached? Epoxyed to the hull?
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21213 |
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I havent dissected a newer (87+) pylon cup, but the older ones had a flange at the bottom that was glassed down. Nothing was bedded in thickened resin or anything.
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teelta ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-22-2012 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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I have all my foam poured and am about to get all my plywood glued down to the stringers and foam. I know...I'm one of those guys that decided to use plywood on top of foam.
![]() I was planning on putting 3 layers of Biax over the plywood. Does that sound right? Too much? |
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uk1979 ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: June-13-2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1426 |
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Trey, most go with coating with Cpes(thinned epoxy) to seal up the ply all round...well soaked into the edges of the ply,with a layer of cloth to the under side of the ply,then lay and finish the top with layers 2 layers of cloth or biax if your using up supplies you have left over,this is if your using 3/4 ply.... if your ply is thinner then I would add 1 more top layer...as the foam will support the ply too if its all flushed off to the under side of the ply.
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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teelta ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-22-2012 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Yes I've sealed it up with CPES. THX!
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21213 |
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2 layers of biax over a ply floor is overkill... 1 is plenty. I wouldnt use 3/4 ply either- with the exception of the span over the bilge (motor box to batt box). With the support of the foam, even 3/8" or 1/4" would be fine. CC built the floor with ~1/8" thick glass right over the foam, after all.
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ny_nautique ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: June-01-2011 Location: Albany NY Status: Offline Points: 1215 |
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Teelta, I'm leaning towards pouring the foam after the floor is done. Just wondering how your process went, and if you had a lot of waste.
My thought is: 1) Install floor 2) drill strategic holes throughout the floor (every 3 feet or so) 3) Tip the boat on the trailer 4) Pour foam into holes 5) Cap holes 6) Glass floor Did you let the foam expand and then cut it, or did you use something to stop it from expanding above your floor height? |
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- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique |
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Hollywood ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13523 |
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No need to tip boat. Let expand then cut, been documented a few times already (along with some of your other general questions). A CCF google domain search works great.
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teelta ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-22-2012 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Jeff, definitely without a doubt attach plywood, cut holes, and then foam. It will be a lot easier. If I had it to do all over again, which I probably won't because this floor should outlast me, I would foam after the plywood is in place. I used 3/4" in front section that covers the bulkhead and 1/2" the rest of the floor. Under the bow, I am fiberglassing right over the foam. I was going to cut holes in the plywood but when it came down to actually cutting the holes I thought it might weaken the plywood, which was stupid because the foam is dense and will support the plywood very well. I also wondered if the foam would fill all the voids if I had the plywood in already - there was no way of knowing. So what I ended up doing is pouring the foam between the stringers and ended up with a lot of waste. I ordered a 10lb 4lb. density kit and had to end up ordering more because I ran out. I did not enjoy getting the foam flush with the top of the stringers. It was not fun. Unless you have already gotten your foam, I would attach your plywood and use the injectable kind like Pete suggests. And if I remember correctly holes need to drilled every 18" or something like that. Also another advantage to putting in foam after the plywood is you are not cutting off the sealed film or skin that forms once it cures making it more impervious to water. I don't know exactly what you mean by "cap holes" but you can just cut off the mushroom of foam that comes out the holes flush with the plywood and then fiberglass right over it. Another concern I had after cutting off the mushroom is how do you seal the edge of the plywood hole? Maybe fiberglassing over the top will be enough, I don't know. But I guess you could cut the holes and then CPES the edges just to make sure. |
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uk1979 ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: June-13-2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1426 |
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Trey.....your be surprised how much the cloth or left over biax adds to the screw holding especially if there is a layer on the underside which you can screw through....after Cpes the pilot holes and then fixing with a PU sealant in the holes.
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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utahflooringanddesig ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: December-15-2022 Location: 8452 S State St Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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floor exploration is a complementary maneuver for the treatment of zygomatic-maxillary compound fractures that permits the precise diagnostic of the lesion and the correct indication of repair.
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Jason Darger
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