1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

Pete I planned on painting them but first things first. Got to get this baby together if I'm going to take her on our trip first thing tomorrow morning. Man I'm cutting it close. Probably rebuilding or replacing the short block next year so I'll paint them then.

Left to do....
1. Flywheel
2. Dampener
3. Bellhousing
4. Transmission
5. Line everything up so I can cut my exhaust hose to the proper size.
6. Figure out my shaft log hose length then put it in place.
7. Instal prop, already lapped
8. Connect remaining wires and hoses
9. Instal gas tank
10. Build side pannels
11. See if she runs

Never can get quite as far as I'd like to in the time I have. This morning I started putting the engine in. Installed the flywheel then moved to the dampener. Sheared off one of the dampener bolts around 20 ft lbs. Don't know if that was too much torque or if the bolt was just too old. I'll pick up 3 new grade 8 ones at the hardware store.

When the engine tilted back, oil came out of the flywheel holes. Oops. Cleaned up easy enough. I know to seal the threads when installing but what is this extra hole for? I assume it's not open to the crank area?







Debating on keeping these babies free of flaps....

David,
No, it shouldn't hurt it. The ampmeter has a solid conductor post to post carrying the current. Then there's windings around it that create the magnetic field moving the needle. With a good battery that's not run down, I'd be surprised to see it hit the 40 amps.

David,
Alternators never put out their "rated" ouput. The output of any alternator really depends on the condition of the battery and of course the other small loads. If your battery is run down, you may peg the gauge but only for a very short time.

Yes on the ignition switch. Same "bat" term in and out with the heavy wire.

No on the ampgauge. Go back to your original drawing - In one post and out the other. If they are backwards, the ampgauge will just read backwards.

vondy wrote: So from amp to BAT on key. Then do I go from BAT to Solenoid?

Yes but you want it connected at the solenoid to the stud where the + battery cable is connected. Don't mix it up with the small wire that energized the solenoid coil. That should be the white wire.

David,
The red from the amp goes to the red on the key switch which is the "Batt" terminal. Leave all the rest of the wires on the key switch the same.

The 3rd terminal on the amp is for lighting but should be the switched hot. The case would be the ground. Do check it out since some gauges are set up slightly different.

BTW, the way you have it drawn, you would have power to the ignition all the time. Think of the key switch this way - the "bat" terminal in "IN" and all the rest are switched "OUTS".

David,
Take a look at this wiring diagram. Maybe it will give you a better idea rather than me trying to put it in words. But yes, aternator to te ampmeter, ampmeter to the key switch and then the key switch to accesories,ignition system and back to the start relay (solinoid) to charge the battery. It goes to the key switch so the ampmeter will indicate the total load on the charging/battery system. Keep in mind the wire gauge to the ampmeter and back to the relay neds to be rated for the alternator output.



The 3rd post on the ampmeter is for the internal lighting. The case is the ground for the light.

Well most everything is in and done besides the engine. Still have to hook up the prop, various wires, put the gas tank in, connect the exhaust, and other little things here-and-there.

Pete I need some help on this alternator wiring. I know we discussed but want to make sure I get it right so I don't blow anything up.

You say to run my single wire from the alternator to the amp gauge. What post would I want to hook it up to on the amp gauge? I believe there are 3. Then you say from there go to the key switch. Again, what post? From there it runs back to the starter solenoid. I believe here it should connect to the post the battery connects too. It also appears there is a smaller post on the alternator, don't know if it's a ground wire or something?

Almost there guys! Will drop the engine in tonight and pray she fits. Then pray she starts! Then pray she floats!

David,

Nice work and the motor looks great - I know this is a very minor comment in your overall progress, but is a little easier to do this now than after you get all the belts, cooler, etc. put back on the front of the engine. I see you put timing tape on the damper and I had done this as well when I recently replaced my timing chain and in the humidity under the motor cover it lasted one trip to the lake. From my experience you might want to use a paint marker to identify the degrees adjacent to the timing tape now before bolting all the appurtenances back up.
Great job I will probably have to do this project sooner or later with my 75 Mustang

Exactily how mine were done too.

Hay Vond! looks super, you have been kicking aassssss! good luck on the maiden voyage

8122pbrainard wrote: David, Look'n great. I especially like the vinyl wall covering for the floor - Yes, keep it ORIGINAL!!! Where did you find it?

If he's keeping it original,he'd have a fiberglass pan ----

I think it looks great David,your engine turned out nice too.

Yes, I smear a thin layer in the hole with a healthy bead on the tube.
Cleans up alot better with mineral spirits than it does with acetone or lacquer thinner.

When my red carpet is done I hope to switch to the nautolex flooring too. I like the look of the red but it shows every little speck and is a chore to keep it looking clean. I am curious to see how much it takes to cover the floor and walls. Pretty sure the carpet I got was 6' wide and 15' long and I only ended up with 1 seam on the SB wall.