75 separator rebuild

at what age do we become dirty old men?

btw, a portable hand planer would whack that down in under a minute

first, how thick is the mounting area? and are there 2 pieces of ply bonded together? normally you'll have a layer of gel, then glass and finally 2, 3/4 pieces of ply back to back
you'll notice the mounting studs on the gimble are 2.5 or so long. rmember the forces that are pushing a 3500 lb boat are all transfered thru the transom unlike an inboard. good qaulity ply...not marine, cpes highly recommended in this area.
As I said, I make my pattern, pre fit the ply, drill my mount holes, coat liberally to waterproof, mix it on the cool side, lay the piece up in there and go to town with clamps, inluding any thru holes i will use pre determined bolt and nuts to clamp, including tie down holes....anything that has a hole...I have long arm vice grips that i will use thru the gimble hole to reach other ares and at the corners I will tie in kickers screwed to the stringers or anything solid

I vote to leave it.Could it be there for a reason like drain plug support? That is a drain plug there right?

Here is a pic of transom prior to planing! Eric, how am i going to attach the wood to transom. can you give me a step by step and the best products to use , thanks again. and yes this is the best tool for cutting parts out

normally, the first piece of ply goes from corner to corner, the second piece covers the drive hole with extra. i cardboard template the first piece and fit, coat both sides and edges, let dry, scuff with 80, coat ply and use bolts thru gimble holes and tie off holes to clamp along with extended vice grips, at times i will put kickers in from the stringers to the ply to help in clamping

I was thinking of going at the transom core from the inside. Use a circular saw to cit through one layer of the glass, use a grinder to bevel both sides of the cut before removing the skin, then gently remove the inside skin. Use the Fein to get under the existing wet ply, but not damage the outer skin. Replace new CPES treated ply a la vacuum bag and epoxy with the filler of your choice. More epoxy on the inside skin after being prepared, pull another vacuum to re-apply the skin. Build up with 1", 2" and 4" tape around the cut referenced at beginning of the post. This was a way I would replaced rotten core under nonskid sections on sailboats. Those patterns were always a challenge to match.

Anyhow, maybe worth a try here?

Last post should read Fein Multimaster. Dang autotext..

now you know what i do in between transmissions lol, put my share of transoms in and alot of repairs on the Alpha/ gimble rings, crack the drive in half and put a new impeller in there, new rubber and shift cable...dont ask why just do it... lol really, invest in a new shift cable to the drive or the boat will stall everytime you put it into reverse because of the interupter switch.

the baffles are about the size of a coffee can cut in half and mount directly to the transom and they have their own outlet tips that go out the back of the boat, cuts the open header noise in half, really is annoying with straight pipes on I/O's. when it comes to manifolds on these boats i can always think of better ways to spend the money, if its open checkbook, go with your gut. But, I think a pair of Mercs would be the way to go. if your going with a stroked engine there is plenty of useable horsepower
1986 is when they switched to a one piece RM, so the 87 coupling will fit on the crank. when you get to the point of aligning the engine to the drive i will send you my extra tool, but i need it back.
The planer is definitely the way to go to skin the transom, it gets right down to the glass, I have a twin engine boat i have to put a transom in next month and i am not looking forward to it, I threw him a high price to dis courage him and he said OK, when should i bring it? fckkkkkk!!! not so bad though I guess, I need something to fill my days

if you do happen to go with thru hull, they do make a set of baffles, believe me the noise will be annoying as fck after a while, the baffles tame down the noise a bit and the complaints, open exhaust on an I/o is a touch louder than the norm of an inboard

you gotta watch, if you purchase a pre 86 chubby, it is a 2 piece rear main with different crank which warrants a different alpha drive coupling, after 86 is a 1 piece rear main, and to a different coupling....a little pricey and worth purchasing a new one because they tend to fail often.

Hay Riley ! I cant see them thay are to small, are thay alum or cast? i might have a issue with exh cause of the way the steering hooks up do to being a out drive you can give me a ring to explain them if ya like. Thanks Jeff 269 506 1249

connorssons wrote: Riley wrote: I know someone that has a pair of Interceptor "U" outlets if you need them. Hay Riley! can ya get a pic of the u outlets for me? thanks jeff

This is the best pic I got. It's from the ebay listing when we got them. I want the manifolds, but don't need the elbows.