prop shaft removal |
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behindpropeller ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: July-31-2006 Status: Offline Points: 1810 |
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I just went through the shaft thing..
Best deal going is the complete ARE system for $283.00 with your CCFAN discount. Tim |
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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Tim,
From SkiDimm? I am trying to get a local shop to straight my strut. Does anybody recommend repair shop or if I have to buy a new one from where? |
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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Pete, what is the minimun variance I should see in the shaft. I got a dial indicator but I don't have the V block. First test using whatever I had the indicator showed +/- 0.01 variance. I bet some of that is due to my setup. I can see +/- 0.003 just by touching it.
I sent my strut to Murphy's propeller in VA. Somebody recommend them in another thread. They seem very nice and at least have an idea of what they are doing. Must of the people around town didn't and I got the "hmm we can try" answer. I think it would cost about $175. That includes getting straight, removing the set screws which I strip the socket, and a new bearing. I thought about putting a new XPC bearing but for convinience I went this way. Whatever they put on can't be that bad. |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Anthony, Glad you found someone to try and straighten the strut.
It sounds like you need to get the shaft set up in something better to get some decent readings. Ideally V blocks on a surface plate. The straightness tolerance on a good or new shaft is .001 to .002 inches per foot. I feel a bad shaft would be anything over twice that. This means if you have 2 feet between the V blocks, you do not want to see a reading in the middle over .008" It sure doesn't sound like very much but it doesn't take much to get the vibrations going especially now with the fancy CNC props. Do check at the small end of the taper as it will check for bending just aft of the strut. This is the spot that you will see the most problems from hitting something. Did you ever see that picture that Reid posted of his broken shaft? It was just aft of the strut. Eric, What do you consider bad? |
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behindpropeller ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: July-31-2006 Status: Offline Points: 1810 |
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Yes- From SkiDim. ANd for measuring your shaft: You need to measure the shaft runout and also check the face runout with the coupler on. A local machine shop should be able to help you. Tim |
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eric lavine ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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I seen a spec on new and it was .002 over 4ft.
I checked into buying 1" SS shaft because I was going to cut 50 inch lengths and have one side tapered and threaded by my machinist which was a one time in the cnc process and then i would cut the shaft to size per what length someone would want and i would chuck it into my milling machine and key it, I was hoping to keep the shafts around $125.00 each, but then they offer 20 different types....pump shaft, ground to size, 306, unfinished etc... so if anyone knows the the exact material i will research it further and start making shafts and possibly couplings |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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Looking for V blocks prove to be challenging but I found something similar in Harbor Freight:
I set them 2 feet apart and the maximum variation was 0.006 and that was at before the the beginning of the key. Now, at the end of taper before the thread start I noticed a variation of 0.014. I am concern about that. What you guys think? Should I buy a new shaft. Thanks, |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Anthony, Considering the bent strut, I would have to say that your boat took a hit and at that time bent the shaft too. There are shops that will straighten shafting but it is risky. If the bend was in the middle so the support is on ether side (between the coupling & strut), I would consider the straightening but on the prop end I wouldn't. I also notice the dark area of the shaft at the coupling end. This is a indication of fretting so that would be a negative on the fit of the shaft/coupling. If you have the $$, I would go to General and have them set you up with a new shaft and coupling. They will make sure the coupling fit is correct and true the face of the coupling up to the shaft. Did you indicate the middle? Just being curious! Nice idea on the V blocks! Inexpensive Harbor stuff but it worked.
Eric, Do a internet search on marine shafting and you will find lots out there! I would say that getting into the competition and the investment on all the different couplings and shafting of different diameters/materals would be a struggle. Would the return be that great? I have heard so many different opinions on the shaft material. Last week I was talking to a friend who was repalcing both shafts in his 24' twin Chris. He is the guy I know who rebuilds the Chris/Hercules so on the tech end is very competent. He told me he decided on 304 rather than one of the fancy "marine" grades. Half the money and just as good. I have 304 in both my X55 and the Atom. I would go with 316 for salt water. Keep in mind that the fancy "marine" grades are nothing more that private labeling of standard grades with tight control on the alloys. It's almost like drinking bottled water over tap water. (exception: not Louisiana tap water) |
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eric lavine ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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I thought about it and he has the CNC's to handle the job and he also is looking for other sources of income, were reverse engineering Lamborgini door hinges right now...how i get my self involved in this stuff I don't know!!!
but the shafting wouldnt be so bad in quanities, the problem is the capital to manufacture and stock them |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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Pete, thank you so much for your input. I hope one day I can repay the favor. I never noticed the dark spot at the end. Good catch.
![]() ![]() ![]() It will be great to have Eric in the shaft buisiness. It would definetly make things easier. But the capital investment might be a big obstacle. Maybe if he finds somebody going out of buisiness... wishful thinking |
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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I called general. They need a part number. Where can I find a part number for my shaft?
Thanks, |
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behindpropeller ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: July-31-2006 Status: Offline Points: 1810 |
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Looked into it last year... I will even fwd you the quotes. Not a money maker.... Tim |
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SUNAPEE CROW ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-06-2008 Location: Methuen,MA Status: Offline Points: 110 |
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No, No I did not want to bugger the faces of the flanges and as someone suggested the were rusted together. I have a fine selection of hammers, chisels and punches but they are my last resort. I just ordered the shaft log rubber and GO TEX shaft seal from SKIDIM today, so I will be revisiting this real soon.
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SUNAPEE CROW ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: February-06-2008 Location: Methuen,MA Status: Offline Points: 110 |
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Eric,
In order to make your prop shaft business proposition work you have to think about manufacturing in quantities of one. The only inventory you have is bar stock and if you do it one at a time, the value added (labor) becomes a receivable as soon as you ship. With CNC capability the changeover time between pieces should be insignificant |
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eric lavine ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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i was thinking of having him make 20 of them at 52" and cut to size needed and key, my biggest concern was the material. i checked into and there are 20 different materials from 306 to special ground pump shaft which was more pricey, i need to find out exactly what material is used....i know i could use ground to size pump shaft but then that would inflate the cost
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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306?? Eric, Thought you may have missed this. From above: "I have heard so many different opinions on the shaft material. Last week I was talking to a friend who was replacing both shafts in his 24' twin Chris. He is the guy I know who rebuilds the Chris/Hercules so on the tech end is very competent. He told me he decided on 304 rather than one of the fancy "marine" grades. Half the money and just as good. I have 304 in both my X55 and the Atom. I would go with 316 for salt water. Keep in mind that the fancy "marine" grades are nothing more that private labeling of standard grades with tight control on the alloys. It's almost like drinking bottled water over tap water. (exception: not Louisiana tap water)" |
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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Here is an update. I sent the strut to Murphys propeller in VA and they got it straight, replaced the stripped screw, and put a new cutlass bearing. Cost me $195 and I think it was worth it.
before: after ![]() New set screws: My new shaft ![]() Thanks for all the help. |
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eric lavine ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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couple whacks with a hammer and your all set to go...oh sorry...that will be 195.00 lol eric. seems they have nice equipment
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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LMFAO
![]() ![]() ![]() Getting it straight was about $65. Hammer $5 know where to hammer $60. I think they heated too because is repainted and the old caulk is burned. To removed the stripped set screw and a new bearing was $110. The turn around was quick. Within 2 days they had it straigthen and within a week I got it back. Not bad, it was nice to deal with them. |
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BuffaloBFN ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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So, you're a chiseler?!!? ![]() |
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78SkiTique ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: April-29-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 70 |
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Anthony: I am going through the exact, and I mean exact same problem as you have. You can follow the thread under "new owner problem". My strut was even bent and twisted the same as yours. I just got it back from being straigtened and it seems we paid about the same$$$. They put new cutlass bearings in, checked the shaft, corrected a slight bend in the end of the shaft, and tuned up the propeller. I am just starting to put it back together and am going to shoot for perfect allignment. Good luck! I had my strut straightened at Bay View Marine in Warwick, RI. If all goes well after I get it running I would say I would highly recommend them.
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anthonylizardi ![]() Gold Member ![]() Joined: July-25-2007 Location: DFW, TX, USA Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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