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new 79 tique |
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KENO 
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11269 |
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 Topic: new 79 tiquePosted: January-03-2023 at 6:56pm |
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Once upon a time you had zero experience with lots of things but did some learning along the way,......... we all did
 Here's a good thread to read in the link below that might help you decide if you want to tackle a stringer job. I think they started out not knowing a lot about stringers fiberglassing etc. but did a heckuva job and it's well documented Figure out how long you think the process will take and then multiply that by 3 or 4 and you'll probably be close
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reed462
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Joined: November-10-2020 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: January-03-2023 at 3:04pm |
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so obviously i am aware now that the old girl needs to be completely rebuilt from the hull and up, something that is very inevitable with these bath tubs. i am in school for auto mechanics so the motor, trans, electrical is ez but i have little to no clue on where to start with the hull and stringers. i wanna be able to do it myself but i obviously want it done right so the boat will last the full 20 years or so. just have 0 experience with fiberglass and im not too sure if this is something i should take on if im not confident in said field. any advice from u brainiacs?
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79 Tique
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reed462
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Joined: November-10-2020 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: April-21-2022 at 10:32pm |
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Questions regarding structure of the boat.. The stringers to my knowledge seem sound, when i first looked at the boat i checked the lags and no free spinning on all 8 bolts. Used a socket to tap for delam and disbond along stringers and nothing. No cracks of any sort on the fiberglass coating around the stringers. Just not sure about how they look towards the bow of the boat. Floors seemed warped..? they tend to dip in some spots. not too sure if that is due to wet foam or the floors just being rotted. Just one more note: lots of spider cracking along the hull of the boat and up by the chines, which makes me a little nervous and confuses me because i believe the structure of the boat is solid but isnt spider cracking in the gel from the fiberglass expanding because of heat
or am i incorrect? |
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79 Tique
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MrMcD
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Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3778 |
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Posted: April-17-2022 at 12:46pm |
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Congratulations!
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reed462
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Joined: November-10-2020 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: April-17-2022 at 11:23am |
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79 Tique
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KENO
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Posted: April-14-2022 at 7:56am |
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I'd get it running, then worry about the rust after that.
 If the rusty coil is working, "then don't fix what ain't broke" If you have ignition issues, a coil replacement might be in your future
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reed462
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 11:12pm |
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I have my new impeller coming tomorrow so once I can run water thru her I’ll see if I can keep it running. Should I be worried about the rust towards the front of the intake manifold and down on the pulleys? The coil and distributor are extremely corroded and rusted as well.
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79 Tique
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KENO
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 8:12pm |
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Here are some pictures from Reed.
I got 3 out of 4 right side up ..................not too bad  I think all 79 Commander engines came with the AC pump and a rubber supply line from the pump to the carburetor as original equipment. It may not have the USCG stamping on the hose, but being hose that's about 43 years old, I'd probably replace it........... just because. The flame arrestor has the right fittings for the breather hose from the oil fill cap (big fitting) and the ruptured diaphragm indicator clear hose The carburetor also has a fitting for the fuel pump overflow hose and it looks like the black rubber hose mentioned earlier is hooked up there. Just pick one fitting to use and cap the other one. No real advantage of using one over the other. I think I'd put the carburetor back on, new filter, hook up the fuel line, prime it with a little gas down the carb primary throats and see if it starts and runs, then do things like replace the hose and if necessary the fuel pump and/or a carburetor rebuild. Let's cross our fingers and hope it runs and your fuel supply issue was the filter being plugged. Then you could also change the fuel filter/water separator on the suction side of the pump to make sure that isn't a problem, And then the line from the tank to the filter/separator could probably also use replacement if it's original 43 years old, and the anti siphon valve on the gas tank could be checked too. I guess you could call it a pretty original "survivor"
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cbr1000dude
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Joined: August-23-2011 Status: Offline Points: 330 |
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 4:35pm |
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I defer to the greater knowledge of Keno.
I've had 4 CCs and all had metal fuel lines, and thought it was standard. Routing of rubber fuel line so close to high heat sources and spinning belts, moveable dog house engine cover, also seems dangerous to me. Just my opinion of course.
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reed462
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 4:13pm |
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Thank you for that info regarding the pump and my fuel filter and fuel lines.. i will add some pictures of the boat
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79 Tique
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KENO
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 12:09pm |
Reed Your fuel pump is an AC dual diaphragm marine fuel pump, the green arrow points to the place where you can hook a hose to that would run up to the carburetor/flame arrestor to indicate a ruptured primary diaphragm. Somebody has a black hose hooked to it. It's a lot easier to see fuel in that line if it's clear That line being clear vinyl is OK per the USCG regs and speaking of the USCG regs, rubber fuel line between the pump and the carburetor is perfectly acceptable as long as it has the right rating and the hose clamps are clamping the hose onto barbed fittings. The hose is rated USCG A1-15 or a later version is A1-10. You won't find it at your local car parts store. Here are a couple of links you can read http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/AssetManager/ABYC.1002.01.pdf https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2011-title33-vol2/pdf/CFR-2011-title33-vol2-sec183-558.pdf CBR1000 dude should probably read them too, it's been gone over many times here on CCF. Some people like rubber, some like metal, the Coast Guard just tells you what they approve. And for your other question..............yes a plugged fuel filter could be your whole fuel delivery problem, but the stuff plugging it had to come from the someplace like a dirty gas tank. More pictures of the engine would be good. |
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cbr1000dude
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 10:25am |
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That pump doesn’t seem to have the clear fuel line that returns to the carb, maybe it just doesn’t show in the photo, anyway, that line is a marine safety feature that shows fuel leaking past a cracked diaphragm in the pump.
Also, a metal line from the pump to carb is required for safety. The term “death trap” comes to mind. A clogged fuel filter is the least of the problems imho. |
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reed462
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 9:58am |
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Was just about to make another reply regarding the fuel pump. I removed my duralast fuel filter that connects the hoses in the middle going from the pump to the carb. And I turned it over and fuel actually did come out, u can see the little amount of fuel in the little mason jar. Could it be as simple as the fuel filter?
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79 Tique
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KENO
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Posted: April-13-2022 at 6:39am |
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Portable tank straight to the pump suction and nothing coming out the discharge is pretty much confirming the pump is no good.
You could be stubborn and crank it longer, with a piece of clear tubing on the suction line so you can see if any gas is moving at all. If it doesn't pump, a pressure gauge won't do you any good. You probably have a Carter pump. The Carter number is M60389, you can find them for a wide variety of prices on line Or you could get in touch with Then and Now Automotive in Weymouth and get a rebuild kit or have them rebuild what you have now. The newer ones aren't rebuildable, the older ones are. Their rebuild job will be more expensive, but seems to use better parts than the newer pumps Send me pictures if you want to verify what you have for a pump Here's a link to Then and Now |
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reed462
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Posted: April-12-2022 at 7:27pm |
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Just tested the pump and got nothing, not a drop of gas. Cranked for around 10 seconds. Aren’t you able to run tests on these mechanical pumps with a pressure gauge?
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79 Tique
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cbr1000dude
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Posted: April-11-2022 at 11:32am |
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So I read the whole post and still don’t know if the fuel pump works!
This would seem the most likely problem to be addressed first, since it fires up with gas down the carb. |
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KENO
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Posted: April-11-2022 at 7:07am |
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Since you have the fuel pump sucking from a portable tank and the carburetor is off, aim the fuel pump discharge into a container and crank the engine with the starter and see if gas is coming out the discharge line to at least give you some indication that the pump is working.
Use the container because it'll spray out the line and surprise you and make a mess too if you don't use the container Since the boat originally ran for you, I'd check the pump before tearing into the carburetor. If you're gonna tear into the carburetor, do yourself a favor and get one of the many Holley carburetor tuning or rebuilding books that are on the market. Here's a link to some examples They all have their good and bad points, but the David Vizard book is probably one of the better ones
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KENO
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Posted: April-11-2022 at 7:01am |
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Here's a slightly fuzzy picture of what it looks like if you take the bowl off and hold it upside down The white baffle slides out to access the needle and seat after the float and spring are removed.  |
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KENO
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Posted: April-11-2022 at 6:54am |
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Here's a picture of a Holley inlet seat partially screwed in (orange arrow) The yellow arrow is pointing at the plug you have circled in your picture. You don't want to mess with that plug unless it has an external leak. You access the internally adjustable needle and seat by taking the float bowl off and removing the plastic baffle, the float and it's spring  |
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reed462
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Posted: April-10-2022 at 10:00pm |
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Is this the needle/seat?
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79 Tique
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reed462
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Posted: April-10-2022 at 9:38pm |
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So I removed the bottom bolt of the back fuel bowl and cranked, but I wasn’t pulling gas from the tank because it is bad. I took the fuel line going from the separator to the pump and put it in a tank with fresh gas and cranked, I got little sputters but no start. No gas ended up coming out of the back bowl. I pulled the plumbing and used the air compressor to clean anything but the hoses seemed to be fine.
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79 Tique
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bwinn
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Joined: July-13-2009 Location: ct Status: Offline Points: 396 |
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Posted: April-10-2022 at 1:22pm |
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Any updates? There’s no better feeling then getting a classic like this running again.
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bwinn
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Posted: April-05-2022 at 7:58pm |
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Fuel delivery. Is there fresh gas in the fuel tank? 5 gallons or so?
Ok, after that I see the carb bowls have bolts that hold them on. I’ve removed the bottom ones and drained out a mixture of fuel/water in boats that have sat for a season or more. You could remove one bottom bolt. If there is no fuel in there leave the bolt out and crank it to see if the bowl is filling up. It would be recommended to disable the ignition before that to prevent an accidental fire of course. If there’s no fuel still I would be looking at the the needle/seat for the carb or plumbing to the pump. Some boats had fuel shut off valves and if it has one make sure it’s open. Some had water separator filters also. Good idea to replace every season as they do collect water. Does this help? Burton |
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reed462
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Posted: April-05-2022 at 9:36am |
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So, a fuel delivery problem. Where exactly do I start with that? The carby, pump, and filter have seen better days.
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79 Tique
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Jonny Quest
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Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 3032 |
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Posted: March-16-2022 at 12:52pm |
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It seems you have isolated a fuel-delivery problem…
JQ
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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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reed462
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Posted: March-16-2022 at 10:41am |
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Couple shots down the carb is what gets her to fire off. Doesn’t run for long before quitting.
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79 Tique
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KENO
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Posted: March-15-2022 at 6:44am |
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Well, rumor has it that Reed has an engine that runs now, but it has to be in Forward to start it, so some cable adjustments are needed.
Here's some reading and a video that should help you out Reed link to cable adjustment thread link to video PS.............what did you have to do to get the engine running?
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Jonny Quest
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Posted: February-24-2022 at 3:32pm |
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Coil and distributor look to be in poor condition…from the outside anyway. Love the fuel line.
I would trust KENO’s nose and troubleshoot spark and fuel first. 2-3 tablespoons of gasoline down the old carby has worked well for me. Be sure to replace the spark arrestor first. I’m putting my money on spark problems. JQ
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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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KENO
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Posted: February-24-2022 at 2:50pm |
No but.............he says up above that it only "clicks" when the shifter is in neutral and he turns the key to Start (maybe an electrical arcing noise?)and the starter has no power, but when he moves it to fwd, turns the key to Start and the misadjusted cable lets the NSS feed power to the sol/relay and the starter, it turns over making normal turning over noises. So I didn't hear the "click", maybe it's there but covered up by the noise of the starter and the rotating but not starting engine. Kinda "weird" I'd post the video but it might take me a year or so to figure out how
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TRBenj
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Posted: February-24-2022 at 2:26pm |
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You hear any of the described clicking?
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TRBenj wrote: