White steam / smoke

TRBenj wrote: This has been mentioned before, but the 143 'stat seems to be recommended for the 351w. Thats what I run in my boat,

Not entirely, I believe 143 is for the salt water, raw water cooled engines.

I think that Gottaski is right. There was a heavily debated post awhile back that finally came down to that electrolisis on salt water raw cooled engines is much lower if you use the 143 stat.

That is if my memory serves me right. I'm 50 now so that part of my body is definitely starting to go.

It wasn't my intent to revive the 143 verses 160 thermostat discussion

I was just trying to get the point across to Azeus17 that, contrary to other posts, the engine is hot to the touch and some parts are hotter than others.

I do have a 143 stat. And I do run is brackish water, if that does make a difference. My temp stays right around 160. I took the stat out altogether and the temp was at about 140 at about 30 MPH and then would rise up and fall back down after I stoped. I tested the stat and it did open right near 140. When conducting the test, I poked my finger in the water and realized very quickly that even at 140 I could not keep it in there at all. I made the assumption that if 140 water will burn me than 140 steel would too. As I said, I have ordered the IR thermometer, should be here today and then I will be able to get a very accurate reading of what it really is. My VC's also get very hot along with the oil pan, but as was stated before, I think that is normal. Boat is running great, besides the white smoke I am still getting at higher RPM's. I am just going to keep an eye on the oil level for now.
I will post temps I get from the IR next week.

Thanks for everyones help.

TRBenj wrote: backfoot100 wrote: There was a heavily debated post awhile back that finally came down to that electrolisis on salt water raw cooled engines is much lower if you use the 143 stat. That could very well be true. I can tell you for certain that both SkiDIM and White Lake both told me that the 143 is the correct 'stat for my carb'd 351w. In the discussions here, the 143 allows the motor to run around 160, where the 160 'stat keeps the motor closer to 180.

As I've mentioned before, as a part of just plain goodwill maintenance I put three different 160 degree stats in that motor and every one of them had the boat at exactly 180 degrees at idle in the driveway. I was so puzzled that I just put the old stat back in there, so I can tell you for SURE that the 160 stat puts you at 180, guaranteed. End of discussion!

Messer wrote: I understand the temp sending units are different in the i/b vessels...how about the guage in the dash? If you use an off the shelf guage from an auto parts store, does the guage read the boat temp sending unit the same? Will 140 degrees at the sending unit be 140 degrees on the dash? azeus- how did the IR teser work? Can you post the specs on it? Where to buy/cost?

no they are not the same

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no they are not the same
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79, in your opinion if my "auto parts store guage" reads consistant 190, fluctuating slightly on loads (142 stat, sending unit from PCM) how far off do you think it is? Do you recommend any specifc brand guages. Thanks for all!

A 68 interceptor is going to steam more than the later cooling setups in my experience. The newer setups have more bypass which keeps the motor more uniform in temp and has plenty of cooling water going to the manifolds. The logs on the 68 are also more prone to air spots on the top than the pcm style manifolds so anyway in my experience it is different and I wouldn't sweat it.

I was out the other morning plenty of steam cooler water temps and hot exhaust will do that. Yo do need to make sure when you see the steam that it is steam and not smoke. Water should be coming out with the steam If your not getting water you have a problem.