Boats For Sale:
$600 (+-) Oil Change |
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Bri892001 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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 Topic: $600 (+-) Oil ChangePosted: July-23-2012 at 1:43pm |
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Wow, must have felt awesome when that thing finally came loose.
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64stang
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Joined: June-25-2012 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 38 |
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Posted: July-21-2012 at 6:41pm |
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I should have cought the emotocons, actually I ignore them. I like Fram because of the grippy surface and usually use the better ones. The grippy surfacde allows me to put it on by hand and not worry about using a wrench. Some filters are so smooth that I can't grip them and end up using a tool, thus they may end up too tight. But I did sell auto/truck filters for a while and had some training on them and actually all have a pressure release spring that allows oil to bypass the filter during extreme conditions, like hard accelleration. That being said, too much filtration causes the bypass to activate more often. A good quality filter changed frequently enough provides more than adequate protection.
By the way, thanks for all the help with my boat. Mark |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: July-21-2012 at 6:15pm |
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Why? After reading all the tech reports on the junk Fram!!!   BTW, Gary was being factious. Sorry you didn't pick up on that even though he added all the emoticons!!
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64stang
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Posted: July-21-2012 at 6:04pm |
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I like Fram as well, but that was a Purelator Premium filter, not really a junk filter by any means. I think too tight along with no oil on seal was the cause.
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: July-21-2012 at 4:46pm |
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I'll bet a Fram would have come off easier due to their construction
 
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: July-21-2012 at 4:38pm |
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  That gasket sure looks dry. Plus, I have a feeling that filter was over tightened.
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84 BFN
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Joined: August-02-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Posted: July-21-2012 at 4:18pm |
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I got it off. I followed Bulls advice and used brute force. I used a punch and bent the base ever so slightly and then I use the modified tool to spin the base off (counter clock wise or spinning toward the seats). What a relief! Now I can go skiing!! It would have been a drag to pull the engine just for the oil filter and then have to pull it again for the stringer project early next year.
Thanks for the help!   
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84 BFN
Longwood, Florida |
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mark c
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Joined: May-09-2012 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 534 |
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Posted: July-19-2012 at 12:58pm |
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Big block (and small block) Chevies made after 1967 have bolt on oil filter adapters attached to the block with 5/16" bolts.
 After you get the filter off, remove it and get a remote oil filter adapter and move the filter to a more accessible location. |
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JoeinNY
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Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
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Posted: July-19-2012 at 11:51am |
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I would weld that sucker with nothing but some fans, a few leathers, and some wet rags and not worry about it one bit.
I dont know a chevy from chrysler but on a ford the insert that the filter is screwed onto has a large allen socket in the middle if the chevy is the same way I would get me a good well fitting tool in that and put the insert and what is left of the filter off. But I would be sure of the direction it is threaded in before doing so… as it might not be soo righty tighty lefty loosey to keep it from coming out with the filter. |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: July-19-2012 at 8:49am |
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Shawn,
Thanks for filling me in on the precautions needed for welding. I need to ask, in your line of work, do you ever need to "pull" a "hot work" permit for welding or cutting per OSHA? |
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SNobsessed
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Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Posted: July-19-2012 at 1:25am |
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I know a guy who's shop burnt down due to weld spark that landed in the wrong place. I would save this option as a 2nd to last resort. Pulling engine is last.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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harriss28
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Joined: July-24-2010 Location: Titusville PA Status: Offline Points: 128 |
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Posted: July-19-2012 at 12:27am |
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cover work area, get some wet rags to extinguish possible flame...done |
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mark c
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 11:28pm |
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That sounds like its clockwise, which is correct. Guess its all in your point of view, looking down from the top clockwise loosens it, looking up from below clockwise tightens it). Oil filter is on the left side of the engine, if you put a wrench on the filter with the handle sticking out to the left and pull the handle towards the bow (rotating clockwise), thats will loosen the filter, if you pull the handle towards the stern that would be tightening the filter (rotating counterclockwise). |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 11:09pm |
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Shawn, Could you detail the precaution(s) needed? |
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harriss28
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 11:05pm |
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With proper precaution, a nut can be tacked on, no problems. |
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lakedog55
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 8:10pm |
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Since everyone else has chimed in. Line slip joint pliers up with the holes Tap them in with a hammer and turn the correct way and it will spin right out.
Mike |
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Lakedog55
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84 BFN
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 8:02pm |
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I’m spinning it counter clockwise – toward the front seat (left) or toward the front of the engine.
Man, after a while I started doubting the direction, so I used a 1/2” PVC fitting with the new filter to confirm. I talked to Bull and said to use brute force to get it off. So I plan on working from the holes in the oil filter base with a small cold chisel and start prying but staying away from the block. There is an insert in the block that could get damaged if I go completely nuts, but he said it can be replaced. I’ll let you know what happens. |
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84 BFN
Longwood, Florida |
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Dreaming
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Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 7:13pm |
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from the way your bolts are bent, this may be timely advice  anotherthought...if you could get a 90 degree angle pick between the filter seal and the flange, you could run some oil down the shaft of the pick, and onto the filter seal... do this in several locations to help unglue the seal from the motor? |
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quinner
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 7:04pm |
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Righty Tighty Lefty Lucy
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75 Tique
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Joined: August-12-2004 Location: Seven Lakes, NC Status: Offline Points: 6132 |
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 6:48pm |
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Wow!! if that tool with the bolts in it didnt do it, that sucker must be welded on there. Can't be too careful, don't want them spinning off while your heading down the lake.
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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
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Hollywood
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Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13523 |
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 6:17pm |
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and don't do anything that will give you rash
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grim007
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Joined: January-09-2012 Location: portagelakes oh Status: Offline Points: 57 |
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 4:42pm |
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Hang tough man and don't do anything rash that will cost you more. you'll get this and be boating soon!!
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shaken not stirred
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84 BFN
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 4:25pm |
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Thanks, I called Bull & left a message.
A hacksaw wouldn't work. There is a 1" flange on the block that encompasses the oil filter base, plus I'm really paranoid about damaging the block. This job should've taken an hour tops. I'm now going on my third weekend… |
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84 BFN
Longwood, Florida |
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64stang
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 3:58pm |
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I would be concerned about a hacksaw damaging the flange on the block!
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Hollywood
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 3:53pm |
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if you haven't gotten it by now just call Bull
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oldcuda
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 3:46pm |
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Maybe take a hacksaw blade and slip it between filter and block.The more seal you can cut the less it will take to turn it.I know fire and boats dont mix but I have cut rubber seal with a red hot razor and filter base spins right off
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84 BFN
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 10:30am |
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The oil filter was a generic POC.
This is the tool that I purchased on the internet. It had another piece which I eventually removed. I found that the holes for the bolts line up with the holes in the oil filter. I’m using hardened bolts and they are bending or breaking. I think that there is a partial obstruction in the opening of the block. I originally used bolts that were going into the oil filter holes about 1”, but it seemed that they were getting hung up on something inside the block opening. I have since shortened the bolts so they are going into the oil filter only (about ¼” +-). Now it’s a real pain with almost zero leverage.   
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84 BFN
Longwood, Florida |
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OverMyHead
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 3:09am |
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So, what brand was the filter?
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For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
1987 Ski Nautique |
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ononewheel
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Posted: July-18-2012 at 2:40am |
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If this method does;nt get it off the block, you are not doing it right. Long chisel? Get that plate to bend even, and you are almost home. I have used a chisel to cut from the holes toward the large threaded hole, started tearing the plate, and it will loosen before you have to tear into the threaded part. Oh yea, I swear and get mad. 20 MF'ers and that filter is good as off. If that doesn't work, I'd take it to the oldest longest standing auto shop in town(not a dearship), talk to the guy that has turned wrenches for 25 years, get him a bottle of his favorite booze, $50, and you will be boating in a couple hours. He has the tools, knowhow and this is minor compared to the crap he deals with everyday and doesn't get to charge boat yard prices. |
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If we let the professionals do everything it takes all the fun out of youtube
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64stang
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Posted: July-17-2012 at 11:47pm |
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Make a tool. Get a new filter with the same drain hole spread diameter on the base. Now take a nut and weld it onto a 3-inch plate and then weld 6, 2-inch rods onto the other side of the plate using the new filter as a guide. The length of the rods depends on how much of the threaded feed is sticking out of the block. The shorter the rods the stiffer the tool will be. Now take that tool and remove the old filter base, it will have enough purchase easily. Considering the cost of this tool, I would never remove the motor if I did not absolutely have to.
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64stang wrote: