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'83 351 stalls in idle gear.

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    Posted: July-14-2016 at 6:30pm
Hi everyone this is my first post here on the forum, I'm also a new boat owner as of the beginning of June, and we have been having a great time so far with the old 2001.

The current issue with the boat is a stall in idle gear, seems to run great otherwise, but the stalling is a potential hazard when docking, loading the trailer, or picking up a skier. And it's an annoyance on a couple of long no wake zones on a nearby lake.

When the boat stalls, it seems like the motor bogs down to a stop while trying to idle fwd. then less often, after idling through a no wake zone the motor stalls when I give it throttle.




As far as what I've tried and a little background on the boat, the PO installed electric ignition, and apparently did not treat the gas before storing the boat. He also had a spare carb that needed rebuilding. So on my first lake test the cab was flooding the primaries, I got a needle and seat, as well as a rebuild kit for the spare carb. I swapped the needle and seat, then realized the floats needed adjusting, I got the float to a point that is no longer flooding the barrels (idk if I over adjusted). I siphoned a lot of the old gas out, and have been topping the tank off with good fuel each weekend, most all of the old stuff is probably gone. I used a vacuum gauge to set the idle mixture and it seemed to help the stalling but did not solve the issue.


I don't exactly know where to go with the issue next, I have the rebuilt spare carb done, but it is not installed/ adjusted. And I am not an engine guy so please bare with me.

I appreciate the help in advance.
Trevor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2016 at 7:50pm
What RPM is she idling at? Do you know which power valve was installed in the carb? Have you confirmed the choke is operating properly?

'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2016 at 8:18pm
Also check timing. Should be set between 8-10 BTDC at idle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2016 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

What RPM is she idling at? Do you know which power valve was installed in the carb? Have you confirmed the choke is operating properly?



In gear idle is around 8-900, neutral idle is around 1000ish.

I do not know off the top of my head which power valve is in the current installed carb. When I rebuilt the uninstalled spare I did research which of the 2 included power valves in the rebuild kit to put in, I can't remember which I ended up installing on that carb as its been about a month.

As far as the choke is concerned, it seemed to operate on its own with the flame arrestor (or whatever) off the carb. I really don't know what is proper operation,


By the way, I never have a problem getting the boat to fire back up, sometimes I do have to open the throttle all the way, then back to neutral, then start. But it always starts back with little struggle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2016 at 9:05pm
I will put that on the to do list, I was told by a car guy (not a boat guy is what I'm getting at) that if the timing were off, it would generally run like crap, so I kind of wrote that off as a possibility
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2016 at 9:53pm
Idle seems a bit high. Should be about 600-700 at idle.

Proper choke operation is that it should be almost fully closed when cold (1/8" gap at the air horn). Should open fully once she's up to operating temp.

Have you checked for air leaks where the carb meets the intake manifold?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-15-2016 at 9:43am
Power valve has nothing to do with a idle problem.
Check your idle mixture adjustments, 600 in gear is your target. A vacuum gauge will help track down a leak and get you setup right.

Lots of good Utube videos by Holley on how to tune your carb correctly.

PS:   timing is everything
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tomj72mus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2016 at 2:10am
I just fixed this problem today with my 72 mustang. I put a new fuel pump in and voila. Check your fuel pressure to see if it's below 4 psi or so. If it is change it out! Maybe it's not your carb, it might be your fuel pump. Maybe this will work for you idk, good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2016 at 11:09pm
Thanks for the replies guys, I finally got to the water on a day that wasn't overly crowded, i.e. Not a Saturday or Sunday. Anyway, I now have the idle down to the 6-700 range in gear, I also made a relatively descent attempt to adjust the idle mixture at that speed, the boat runs good under throttle but still tries and does sputter to death in idle.

On the to do list is check the timing and fuel pressure.

Anyone have a tips on where to gain access in to the fuel system?

Also I may not have mentioned it before but the PO did install electric ignition instead of points, and he also did a fuel filter conversion, if I recall he said it was a mercruiser filter. I will have time again this week to mess with the boat, so id love to have it figured out.


Thanks again for any help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2016 at 10:21am
What do you have to do to the boat to restart it after it dies in gear? Crank it? pump it? open the throttle?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2016 at 10:57am
Are both idle mix screws effective? Can either stall the engine at idle when closed? They should, else metering block is boogared up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 10:39pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

What do you have to do to the boat to restart it after it dies in gear? Crank it? pump it? open the throttle?



Typically I open the throttle fully, then back to N and then it will fire right back up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 10:40pm

Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

Are both idle mix screws effective? Can either stall the engine at idle when closed? They should, else metering block is boogared up.



Both will choke out the motor separately.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2016 at 10:55am

Have you observed the open carb when its acting up at idle? There should be no drips.

Its best to set idle mix to best vacuum when in gear, not when neutral. Like the procedure for old automatic trans cars.

Very rare for a fuel starvation at idle condition, it will manifest under high load first

Yes, best check timing and for vacuum leaks as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2016 at 11:12am
Ok, it is either not getting enough fuel or getting too much air. By pumping it to full throttle you are injecting 30cc of fuel into the primary venturi via the accelerator pump.

Usually, if you have a vacuum leak the idle mixture screws will not kill the engine but do look for vacuum leaks for good measure. Confirm timing setting and check back with results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2016 at 8:14pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Ok, it is either not getting enough fuel or getting too much air. By pumping it to full throttle you are injecting 30cc of fuel into the primary venturi via the accelerator pump.

Usually, if you have a vacuum leak the idle mixture screws will not kill the engine but do look for vacuum leaks for good measure. Confirm timing setting and check back with results.


I'm getting too much air...after being frustrated from trying to adjust and check the above things yesterday, and making it worse. I decided to start from scratch, so I put on the spare carb that I had rebuilt initially and not installed. The boat fired up instantly in the driveway, but was running around 2000 rpm, I backed that down and cleaned up for the evening.

This morning I headed to the ramp with the plan to make the adjustments and be finished with it. After fighting with it all day, float adjusting checking the timing and so on I got the boat to run on the trailer, again at about 2k rpm. While it was running there I noticed a bit of a hiss, and I was able to pin point that down to the spacer under the carb.


I have tried new gaskets, still having the vacuum leak. I tried the MR GASKET, Holley gaskets, as that's what the previous owner had on it when I got the boat. Only issue with those is that they don't "hang out" of the mating edges, so I'm not sure if they are the reason for the bad seal, or if the spacer has warped.

I have not been able to locate the PCM gaskets locally, so if there is another part # that will work that would be great.

Also if the spacer is warped, could I use any ol spacer, or do I need a specific one?
The main issue with the "any ol spacer" is the lack of vacuum port on the rear


Thanks again for the help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2016 at 9:33am
Following my last post yesterday, I found this thread http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7620&PN=3&title=forward-idle-and-stalling
And I saw the comment about some gaskets not fitting correctly, as well as an unrelated carb page about older auto motors having incorrect gaskets. A pep boys near the lake had "cut it yourself" gasket material that I had picked up yesterday just in case, so I decided to give it a shot. I traced an ultra thin Holley gasket that seemed to fit better. I cut out 1 for the carb and another for the spacer. I threw them on the boat and fired it up.

The boat ran better than I have seen it run yet, granted it was in the driveway, but it was noticeably better idling then I've experienced in the 2 months I've owned it. Also I let it run for 20-30 minutes, which was also longer than any other time I've seen. So tomorrow first thing, I will lake test. Double checking the idle speed, timing, idle mixture, etc. in Neutral, the idle was at 900 rpms, timing was at 9*

Thanks guys, I will continue to update as progress is made for future searches.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2016 at 11:49am
Very nice,

Keep truckin. Another way you can test vac leaks quickly is to spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner at the base of the carburetor. If the motor idles up when you do that you still have a leak somewhere.

The carburetor base to the intake manifolds take a specific gasket but the carb to spacer doesn't.

I doubt the base is warped as that is pretty thick cast metal. The carburetor base is most likely to be warped. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and buy a new carb..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2016 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Very nice,

Keep truckin. Another way you can test vac leaks quickly is to spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner at the base of the carburetor. If the motor idles up when you do that you still have a leak somewhere.

The carburetor base to the intake manifolds take a specific gasket but the carb to spacer doesn't.

I doubt the base is warped as that is pretty thick cast metal. The carburetor base is most likely to be warped. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and buy a new carb..


Thanks, if it will get me by tomorrow I will be glad to continue diagnosing the issue. The pro wakeboarders are in Atlanta at lake Allatoona and the finals are tomorrow. Ideally, the boat runs great out to the tournament area and then runs great back to the ramp at the end of the day. I will be getting there early and toting the tools, vacuum gauge and timing light. Hopefully the idle mixture and a double check of the timing will be all I lack for tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2016 at 9:02pm
UPDATE: just got off the water. The boat seemed to run much better in idle gear today, but still needs something. It seems like it's still not quite right.

On the vacuum gauge what kind of reading should I be looking for roughly? Idk exactly where to start beyond where it's currently reading. Around 15.

There is still a leak on the rear where the hose comes from the carb and hooks to the elbow on the valve cover, the leake is away from the carb, and the boat would not start at all until I plugged that end of the hose with my vacuum gauge.

The other problem is when you go to give it throttle the boat hesitates before it takes off or dies completely. The hesitation is new but I may have forgotten to mention that it would die sometimes if you did not give it really hard throttle then back off it after it takes off


Thanks

EDIT: turns out the elbow I was talking about is the PCV elbow, I may have actually stretched out the vacuum hose by shoving the guage in to that end of the hose. The valve is not seized up.

I think the hesitation may be the accelerator pump. I tried to adjust it to the .015 but may have done it incorrectly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tfreeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-05-2016 at 6:46pm
Hopefully the last update on this thread. I went ahead and replaced the pcv valve, grommet and vacuum hose. The new pcv has an extra smaller port that is perfectly sized for the tubing on my vacuum guage, so it will stay capped when not in use.

The accelerator pump is now properly adjusted and solved the hesitation problem mentioned above.

I will be starting a new thread about a separate issue that I think is unrelated to this post.

Thanks for all of the help.
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Hopefully the last update on this thread. I went ahead and replaced the pcv valve, grommet and vacuum hose. The new pcv has an extra smaller port that is perfectly sized for the tubing on my vacuum guage, so it will stay capped when not in use.

The accelerator pump is now properly adjusted and solved the hesitation problem mentioned above.

I will be starting a new thread about a separate issue that I think is unrelated to this post.

Thanks for all of the help.
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