Need Advice on my Trailer

My '93 Sport trailer is really starting to piss me off. I have had continued problems with this thing since I bought the boat. I have put more money into my trailer than I have in the boat since my purchase (no kidding). My latest problem is with the one wheel heating up. I had removed and repacked the bearings twice. Today I replaced the races and bearings (inner and outer) on the side that is getting hot. I took it for a ride and it heated up again. So, with new bearings and everything rolling smoothly, I started to think it was maybe the brakes were hanging up. I adjusted the brakes out so they were dragging less when I spun the wheel while it was on the jack. When I took it out for another spin it heated up again. So I started poking around with the brakes. I jacked up the side that gets hot and had a friend spin the wheel while I used the emergency lever to pump the brakes. They didn't work. I replaced a leaking wheel cylinder on the other wheel last week. So, I thought maybe I didn't bleed them good enough, which I didn't . after bleeding them again they seemed to be working fine, and the side that stays cool drags more than the side that gets hot. so why the hell is this wheel still getting hot?

I am at the end of my rope with this thing. what are my options for replacing this trailer. I am starting to think I should just scrap this thing after putting over $900 into it (and it still looks like crap!). Someone posted a '99 Super Sport trailer for sale on ebay here a few weeks ago, the guy was in Columbus, OH and wanted $750 OBO for a nice looking trailer. I could kick myself now for not jumping on that!

what year trailer would work for my boat? does anyone know where I could pick one up???

The trailer has surge brakes. I am talking about the lever on the top of the surge brake that is attached to a wire that attaches to the tow vehicle. I used this to "pump" the brakes instead of pushing on the tongue, which I started out doing...

it has drum brakes. and I packed the brand new bearings very well in marine grease. forcing the grease from the larger side out the smaller side. The brake pads are new and nothing indicates that they are rubbing. actually, the side that stays cool seems to rub more than the side that gets hot. I was told that they should rub a little bit...

Are you talking about the actual wheel? the thing the tire is mounted too? I would think that they would have noticed if it was bent when I had the tires installed. It may be worth a try to swap the wheels since I'm running out of ideas...

what do you think?

the whole hub/drum is getting hot. it's hard to determine what is getting hot the bakes or the bearings since the whole thing is hot. I think it has to be the brakes. I have repacked the bearing twice and then replaced them with new bearings and races today, and they seem to roll fine.


the drag is not consistent and does vary as it rotates. when I turn the wheel, it seems to drag in one area. Could this be the problem?

Randy_in_Ohio wrote: the drag is not consistent and does vary as it rotates. when I turn the wheel, it seems to drag in one area. Could this be the problem?

Unfortunately, I'm not there to feel it. If it is dragging significantly harder in spots, it could be a symptom that the drum surface is out of round, or if severe enough a symptom that the whole drum is warped.

As Pat suggested, if you can deactivate the brakes, and it is still getting hot, then it would indicated you have an issue in the bearing assembly. If it does not get hot, it would indicated you have an issue in the brake assembly. BKH

It drags a little bit but not anymore than the other side which stays cool. I did notice that the drum appeared to have a slight "wobble" to it when it was turned but nothing too significant.

Could I swap the hub/drum from one side to the other? if the problem follows the hub then we know it is the hub. or are they side specific? if you pull the hub assembly off of the spindle should you replace the rear seal?

I could clamp the rubber hose where it connects to the "Y" to go to both sides. But since the brakes weren't working originally due to air in the lines, I don't think this would reveal anything new.


I really don't think it is in the bearings. I took the trailer to a trailer shop when i first picked it up in September. they put in a new set of bearings on both sides. they never put hub caps on the hubs and I wiped all the grease off of the exposed nut and then put it in the water. like a dummy. then it sat all winter. when I took it out this tear I noticed the wheel heating up. I took it apart cleaned out the bearings with kerosene and a tooth brush real good. then rinsed them well in the sink with water. and blew them dry with the air compressor. checked them out and insured everything was rolling well and they were as clean as I could get them, besides a little corrosion or burnt grease on them they seemed fine. I repacked them with Valvoline industrial and automotive grease which I found at the auto parts store (said it had a high water resistence...) and reinstalled them with a new rear seal.
They heated up again, so I took them apart again and found that the rear seal had seemed to pop off some how (I found this puzzling since I know I had it all the way on). anyway, cleaned them and repacked them again.... took it out and they heated up again.
Yesterday, I got up early and went to Akron bearing with the old Timken bearings and the hub in hand. they matched them up with some NTN and Koyo bearings and races. I went ahead and got two sets ($113.00). I picked up some marine grease from the local marina and went home and sent the good part of the day installing races and bearings. I was very careful installing the races and made sure they were seated properly (although this is the first time I have ever done this). when I put it back together everything seemed to roll real smooth, even smoother than the other side.

I'm not sure what to try next. I was thinking about replacing the brake wheel cylinder, since I replaced the other side last week. I'm thinking maybe it is hanging up. It seems like I am just grabbing at straws at this point.

Sorry for the rambling...

Thanks for the help

Does anyone know if the rubber hoses can purchased at an auto parts store, or do you have to get them through a dealer?

Could possibly be a hitch height issue. If the hitch is too low the brakes could be just slightly activated by gravity as you drive. The side furthest from the "T" in the brake line at the axle would be affected less by this slight activation, which could be the cool side. It's a longshot, but I'm just throwing it out there.

Yes sometimes they are specific to side . I didnt relize that on this model. for 22 bucks its worth a shot .

P/Allen, most wheel cyl. are not the same , r & l have the bleeder port in different locations.
Yours may be different, have ran into that monster on both disc and drum setup.It will fit but the bleeder is not at the top.
As far as the rubber hose there is a lot of difference between the pressure of actuating the M/cyl. by hand and the surge system working it,
Go for a ridestop a few times ,pull to a safe spot and jack up the wheel. Try to turn the one that is hot,then try the one that is cool,is there any difference?????????

Two things can cause the wheel/hub/brake assembly to over heat:

1. Bad or improperly installed/lubricated bearings.
2. Dragging brake shoes.

Take number two out of the equation by draining fluid and disconnecting the fluid lines at the wheel cylinders. Ensure the shoes are not dragging on the drum and test drive. If no heating issue, then you know to concentrate on the brakes.

Brakes: I would do the following:

1. Remove rubber line and inspect internal condition. Replace if necessary.
1a. Using compressed air, ensure all fluid lines are unobstructed. Go ahead and clean the lines with (denatured) alcohol.
2. REPLACE master cylinder and any other worn parts in the actuator while you have it apart (like the shock absorber).
3. Replace the entire brake assembly with a new bolt-on assembly. Ensure the brake assembly is of the "free-backing" design (you need a right and left). Brake assemblies are available for about $50.00 per side. IMHO, it is simply not worth the time a trouble to rebuild the brakes when the entire assembly can be purchased so economically. Of cours you have to remove the hubs to replace the brake assembly.

What I have noticed in all the posts above is that you never have paid attention to the master cylinder. Also, the emergency brake lever is a lock-on device. In other words, once activated (via the trailer coming off the hitch) it does not automatically reset, but rather keeps the brakes applied. So, you should NOT use this lever to "pump" the brakes, but rather use a removable hitch as a pumping handle.

Yes, the cable is there to apply the brakes. if he coupler comes off the hitch. I indeed may be wrong about it not resetting, but I seem to remember this being true in the event the trailer breaks totally free from the vehicle.

David,

The whole master cylinder/surge brake assembly is   brand new. actually, once I replace this cylinder on the side that is getting hot the whole brake system will be new.

I think I may try disconnecting the brakes and go for a ride just to confirm my theory of the brakes dragging and to rule out the bearings.

I have the cylinder and am going to replace it now. I'll let you know what I find.

I think behindtheprop may be right. If I had to do this over again, I would probably go electric. But, as I said, everything is new now.

How much does that rubber hose cost?Reson sometimes does not apply to some mechanical problems,Do you have steel line from the M/Cyl.to the rear then the hose, the hose to a tee then the curley Que ti each wheel cly.
   boat dr

To make sure I understand:

You replaced the master cylinder (in addition to the wheel cylinders)? You replaced the brake shoes? You replaced these items on BOTH sides.

Ok, my next theory is that the side that is dragging is working and you have a fluid restrictin somewhere. The side that does not get hot is not working at all, or is adjusted to loose to get hot.

I vote against electric brakes as they will tend to corrode and fail from repeated submersion in water (more so in salt water obviously). There is a reason 99% of boat trailers have surge brakes. When setup properly and maintained (i.e changing fluid yearly) surge brakes can and do work well.

I took the wheel off again. I messed with it for about 3 hours. I cant see anything wrong with it, it looks pretty new actually. I thought maybe I just had the adjustment off. so I adjusted it then pushed the actuator a few times spun the wheel and it drags. I would adjust it back until it spun free then I would push the actuator and release it and it would start dragging. I adjusted it way back but it still drags after you push the tongue.

I am going to see if I can get a brake assembly locally, or order one.