Boats For Sale:
ignition switch confusion |
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hotrod5337 
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Joined: June-22-2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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 Posted: June-18-2019 at 12:26pm |
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no it wasnt intentional. couldnt find and diagrams of the dash wiring and I didnt know what I was doing.
the original wiring was a mess and no help. I'm glad I posted. I will fix Thanks!! |
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21122 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 12:18pm |
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Nice clean job... but man is it confusing with no color differentiation between 12v batt and 12v ignition (typically purple).
It also looks like you used the ignition breaker/fuse to fuse the ignition circuit rather than the 12v supply to the dash? I haven’t seen this before. Was it intentional? |
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hotrod5337
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Joined: June-22-2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 12:15pm |
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yes all switches were Cole herse
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TRBenj
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 12:12pm |
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I’d return the switch. Is it a decent quality one like a Cole Herse?
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hotrod5337
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Joined: June-22-2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 12:11pm |
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-E7bD2dnc1TC0CtHtZEQZgOPINJ1Q35Q/view?usp=drivesdk
I cant seem to get these pictures to post right |
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hotrod5337
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Joined: June-22-2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 12:08pm |
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here's the way I wired the back on the dash. I used buss bars to keep from having too many ring terminals stacked on top of each other. the positive buss bar sees 12.5 volts. the battery terminal on switch sees 12.5 volts. the ign terminal on switch sees a little over 11 volts with switch on. |
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hotrod5337
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Joined: June-22-2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 11:57am |
yes readings were taken at the switch. and yes it was simplified. wiring was done following the diagrams I found on skidim for pcm |
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hotrod5337
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Joined: June-22-2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 11:54am |
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thanks for the reply KENO.
it's a 1974 PCM 302. it does still have the points setup. I didnt think much about what the volt gauge was reading until I cranked it up and volt meter didnt show the alt charging. the gauge sits on 11 volts with engine running or not. but like I said the battery shows 12.5 testing w multimeter. the charging wire from the alternator was reading right at 16 volts around 1500 rpms. I didnt check the output of wire coming from regulator yet. maybe it's the culprit thanks again. |
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21122 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 11:34am |
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it’s unclear if the voltage readings mentioned are being taken right at the switch (in the on position) or not. That would take all the variables out like ken is saying. There should not be a significant voltage drop through the switch.
You also seem to omit several components in your description of the rewire (namely breakers/fuses)... should we just assume that was for simplicity sake in your description? |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10688 |
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Posted: June-18-2019 at 11:19am |
What kind/year of engine are you dealing with.? When you turn the key to the ON position you're supplying voltage/current to your ignition system and your electric choke whether the engine is running or not. Assuming you have points and they happen to be closed, grounding the coil you have some current draw right there (maybe a couple or few amps) and your electric choke when energized draws about 1 amp so your voltage will be reduced. If you were to unhook the purple wire from the inlet to the ballast resistor and read the voltage on the wire it should be higher like you're expecting.. Probably not a bad switch 
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hotrod5337
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Joined: June-22-2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 69 |
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Posted: June-17-2019 at 11:41pm |
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I rewired my dash recently with new gauges and pulled new wire etc. I have a 10 gauge wire from solenoid to battery terminal on switch. another 10 gauge white wire from start post on solenoid to start on switch and the purple wire from ballast resistor to ignition post on switch. problem is the volt gauge (and apparenly the rest of the gauges) is only seeing a little over 11 volts. which is the same voltage I'm seeing at the resistor.
shouldnt the ignition terminal on the switch be seeing what the battery terminal is getting (which is 12.5 v) when the switch is in ON position? it's new but maybe bad switch? thanks in advance |
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TRBenj wrote: