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Winterization

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ricekent View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-07-2006 at 2:47pm
I purchased a beautiful 2001 Sport Nautique last year and had the local marina winterize it for me. What a disaster! No one cares for your boat like you do. I want to winterize myself at the end of the season, I have always winterized my own jet skis and boats, but this is my first inboard. What is the best source of information for winterizing that will ensure that I do it right? Any feed back is very much appreciated. Thanks
Kent
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bmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-07-2006 at 3:47pm
Drain the water from the block,change the fluids.Use fogging oil an shoot it down the intake while the engine is running then shut it off the engine.Pull the plugs an shoot it down the sparkplug holes,then it the key to circulate the fogging oil.I also pull my impeller out of my water pump,put the water pump back together.Once you have done all this then pour RV antifreeze into the block of the engine an water pump system.
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stang72 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stang72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2006 at 12:51am
No need to pour antifreeze...it won't hurt anything ...some folks do it. but it's(imo) overkill....if water is drained from block,pump, hoses, manifolds etc...you are fine! You should have drain plugs on the water pump,manifolds,strainer and maybe a few other spots..look around...each boat is different.

Add stablizer to the fuel.
stang



Face plants are not that funny when it's you face!



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93SNautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 93SNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2006 at 10:06am
ricekent,
did you get the original owners manual with the boat? I have bought 3 used Correct Crafts and always had the good fortune of having the owners manual with them. There is a good step by step procedure with diagrams and pictures of the winterization process. Even if you dont have the manual, you probably could get Correct Craft to make a copy for you of the winterization section for that particular boat.

stang--i agree that if you drain the engine that you dont need antifreeze to protect from freezing, but i have heard that its a good idea to keep the seals wet....? i dont know if that makes sense or not, what does everyone else do?
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2006 at 12:46pm
I use anti-freeze in the block. Not so much for the freeze protection but for corrosion protection. The water passage in the block tend to scale up when left dry.
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bmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2006 at 7:48am
Read the manuel,it tells you to put the antifreeze in the block.In fact in my manuel it illustrates it right in the book,thats the reason I called Midwest Correct Craft an asked if I could use the RV antifreeze.
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1970 Mustang View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970 Mustang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2006 at 3:17pm
Using antifreeze keeps the moisture of the air and the oxygen off of the metal. Bare metal and moisture with oxygen = rust. Antifreeze will make it last longer and not rust inside as much.
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Munday View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Munday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2006 at 9:51am
If you have pcm motor and most others,

5 pipe plugs to remove

    2 on block sides
    
    1 each exhaust manifold

    1 on the u bend by circulation pump

Pull the impellor

Dump sea strainer

Also bottom of trans cooler



I read somewhere that 1/8" layer of rust
had the same R value as 3" of cast iron
so like David I refill w/antifreeze now
but I didn't for along time and never had
any overheating problems.
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ricekent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricekent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2006 at 11:53am
Thanks everyone for your input. I feel more comfortable already. Sounds like something i can handle with enough confidence to do it right. I will look for my manual this weekend. Forecast here is sunny and 96 degrees this weekend! Enjoy. Thanks again.
Kent
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93SNautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 93SNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2006 at 11:54am
another idea since Munday brought it up...

Last time i had my boat in for service, the dealer loosened the raw water strainer and turned it upside down. Now it "sticks up" instead of "hangs down". The result is that it self drains when on a trailor or lift.

i still check it when winterizing, but it never has any water in it when i winterize it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2009 at 3:00pm
Originally posted by 93SNautique 93SNautique wrote:

Last time i had my boat in for service, the dealer loosened the raw water strainer and turned it upside down. Now it "sticks up" instead of "hangs down". The result is that it self drains when on a trailor or lift.


I have been thinking about this all weekend. I am going to do this on my boat. My main reasoning is that taking off the bowl is a PITA really, especially when it's cold and wet. Maybe I'm putting it on too tight but it is really hard to get off by hand. I bought some adhesive backed traction tape to put on, but I think I'll be returning it.

There are other benefits to being upside down as well.

-The o-ring stays wet, prolongs life.

-A poorly sealed o-ring (missing, dry rotted, pinched) will not suck air and overheat your engine as easily. Since it is upside down, gravity will keep whatever water you are able to get against the o-ring and seal they system from sucking air. You will get water leaking out obviously, which makes a bad strainer seal obvious.
-Example, this would have diagnosed the Orange Crush overheat instantly.

-Already mentioned self draining for winterization

-Easier access for removal.

The only drawback I can come up with is possible flow impedence if you are indeed sucking up a lot of garbage. Mixed up sand would make it though to your RWP instead of sinking in the bowl. I've never found more than 1 tiny leave in the strainer bowl anyway, and I beach the boat often (usually kill the power and coast in, push back out). I suppose the "safety" factor is more important to PCM/dealers and which is why the mount it the way they do, but if you don't have much need for the strainer, but want to keep it, flipping it upside down would make maintenance much easier IMO.

It is my goal to reroute the cooling system hull pickup -> RWP feed so I only have to pull the RWP feed hose and be drained all the way back to the hull pickup.
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