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Cutless Bearing R&R - tilt engine?

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Hollywood View Drop Down
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    Posted: November-04-2016 at 5:26pm
Has anyone ever disconnected their transmission mounts and tilted the engine forward enough to slide the shaft up under the transmission and out of the strut to change the bearing? I just don't want to dink around with baking the coupler on reinstallation. Option two is send it down to Duane and have it turned for an ARE coupler. Option three is to pull the engine.

Particular application in question is an 88 Barefoot with a PCM 454.

KenO, up for a challenge?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 5:29pm
Why are you so scared of the single taper removal and reinstall? Its not that hard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 5:35pm
I'm morally against it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 5:42pm
Hard to believe they ever fit as good again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 6:23pm
Interference fit = magic

Man up Kev
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 7:17pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Has anyone ever disconnected their transmission mounts and tilted the engine forward enough to slide the shaft up under the transmission and out of the strut to change the bearing? I just don't want to dink around with baking the coupler on reinstallation. Option two is send it down to Duane and have it turned for an ARE coupler. Option three is to pull the engine.

Particular application in question is an 88 Barefoot with a PCM 454.

KenO, up for a challenge?


You bet I am

Check this out



The guy had to take the oil pan off to change it. Same idea sorta

Actually this came from Team Talk, them MC boys do things a little differently. The guy whose picture I borrowed did it in the water.

I remember somebody else over there changing a pan this way too.

Myself, I'd pull the coupling off and then give Duane. the shaft for some of his magic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 7:50pm
Nice! My tilt theory definitely is looking good.

If the coupler comes off the shaft is going to Duane. I've got a nice shaft pile going down there already.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 8:57pm
Stop being a pansy.. Coupler removal is 10x harder than the reinstall. Neither is hard. 3 beer job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2016 at 9:41pm
Once you have the engine hoist hooked up, why screw around tilting it? Disconnect 2 more mounts, fuel line & maybe some wires & you can lift it up enough to clear.   You don't have to lift it entirely out of the boat.    Depending on how much slack there is in the wire harness, you might even be able to leave wires connected.

Will the pylon even allow it to tilt that far?

Edit - OK, took a couple minutes to realize the danger of lifting the engine. - I would be inclined to repaint it!
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2016 at 1:40am
Did I ever say it was hard Richard?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2016 at 4:23pm
The hub comes off pretty easy compared to many other jobs I have tackled over the years.
I used longer bolts and put a socket between the shaft and the tranny.   Tightened the bolts slowly, constantly turning to keep the pressure even as possible and it slid right out.
Done it this way three times. Simple and less than a half hour labor start to finish.   I would think much faster than any other option.   Once out you can install one of the new machined shafts you are having done and avoid the hot coupling install.   I did that once and it was no big deal either but I don't like doing it.    Unless your engine needs other work done like the pan gasket change shown.    Current boat now has an ARE Shaft thanks to great forum guidance, it is a much easier set up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2016 at 9:52pm
On my '89 I did the cutlass bearing when I pulled the trans to install a new damper plate. I would pull the trans before R&R'ing the strut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2016 at 11:33am
We should have done a cutlass when the trans was out a few years ago. Live and learn. This will be an automatic consideration on any boat from now on that has a transmission out.

We're going to proceed with the tilt and if it doesn't work put the engine back down, press off the coupling with the socket/bolt method and send the shaft to Duane. He already did the first round of inspection and straightening so I have a few to get out of his way.
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