OIl/Trans fluid

Bringing this thread back to life after reading through while trying to decide on VR1 20w50 or SAE 40. I switched to 20W50 on the last change for the same reasons that everyone here has stated about lower viscosity at start up, but after taking a look at their site it looks like SAE 40 actually has a lower viscosity at 40*c (104F) as well as a lower temp. 'pour point.' Am I seeing things or reading this incorrectly?


http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf

I personally use Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil in my 351. It's better for the environment. I get it at any Piggly Wiggly or Kroger and it also makes great funnel cakes while out on the lake.

Hollywood wrote: Strange. What manual did you get those shots from? The 1999 Ski Nautique owner's manual here only says 50 hours. I have not seen that 60 day remark before, nor would I go by it. Hell, the 2003 PCM manual says to change the oil after the first 25 hours, then 100 intervals, or once per year. I understand GT-40s were gone by then but CCF does not seem to have a GT-40 maintenance manual.

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HW you gotta be a Saint. I started to reply to this thread and several others today but I quickly found myself turning into 79Nautique. Discretion is the better part of valor and I cleared every GD one of them.

WTF is going on here today???????????

Hollywood wrote: a0128 wrote: Disregard what your manual says regarding changing your oil every three months. OMFG. His manual does not say to change the oil every three months. crazy pills.

Mmmm . . . actually it says to change it every 50 hours or 60 days, whichever occurs first.





Taken from two separate PCM manuals, one from this site's reference section and one from PN's reference section. Although I think we can all agree that 60 days is unnecessary. .

a0128 wrote: Disregard what your manual says regarding changing your oil every three months.

OMFG. His manual does not say to change the oil every three months. crazy pills.

50 hours or once a year which ever comes first.   

Ive stuck to this since 1982. Never had oil related failure.

Gary S wrote: 6 people have given you the answer as to what they do and but you don't seem to listen or believe them. Do you have a Chevy engine in your boat, no you do not but you call the engine converter and ask them,but the last time they had a Ford go thru the door was before the EPA changed the oil specs. Call them back and ask when was the last time they or Ford has done tests on current oil formulations on engines that have been out of production for 15 years---

Exactly my point Gary! I just learned that by you telling me that just now. Forbid I come to this forum and not know that information before asking a question!!!!

I asked a separate question about shelf life of oil. All I was told was 50 hours. Granted it may be a stupid question to you, I would like to learn the answer. I'm a detail person, which I'm sure most of you guys are as well. However some of you don't seem to have tolerance for those who are less educated on this subject.

Glen,

Disregard what your manual says regarding changing your oil every three months. The magic number is 50 hours. If I were you I'd:

1) Change your oil every 50 hours or at the end of your boating season before you lay it up.
2) Use a brand you are comfortable with, but regardless of brand make sure the oil has a high level of zinc (ZDDP of 1400).
3) 20W-50 or 15W-40 seem to be the agreed upon weights. Pick one that is most compatible with your operating environment. For example, if you run in Lake Mead (Nevada) where water temps approach 85 degrees (and air temps are near 110) in the Summer, I'd run the 20W-50. If you run in cooler bodies of water and use the boat in the Fall use the 15W-40. You can't go wrong with either.
3) Use a quality filter. Ford FL1-A is perfect and inexpensive.
4). Don't let the old oil sit in the pan over the winter. Too many contaminates in there.

Don't over think this. It only oil

The guys on the forum are only trying to help. If a half-dozen guys tell me "Here is what I do and why I do it" I'd probably do it (unless it involved pulling a tube).

6 people have given you the answer as to what they do and but you don't seem to listen or believe them. Do you have a Chevy engine in your boat, no you do not but you call the engine converter and ask them,but the last time they had a Ford go thru the door was before the EPA changed the oil specs. Call them back and ask when was the last time they or Ford has done tests on current oil formulations on engines that have been out of production for 15 years---

Only on modified engines I suspect. That is why it's it's recommended to break in a cam with lighter seat pressure springs and then replace them with correct ones after its broken in but who actually goes thru the work of doing that? Not every owner of a CC,Mastercraft,Supra or insert name here read forums yet you don't see a bunch of boats for sale with bad engines. For the most part it's case of my brother in laws sisters collage room mates fathers great uncle

That sounds like the guy buying the Ski Tique with the automotive carb. It hasn't blown up yet why should he bother to change it? Proactive vs. Reactive.

I believe Joe & Pete are aware of a few documented cam failures...

Its a frikken ford, not a ferrari

Where the *************** did you read 3 months for boat engine oil? READ THE MANUAL AND THE POSTS ON THIS FORUM. Are you trying to be this dense?

a0128 wrote: Changing your engine oil every 50 hours is recommended.

Toertel wrote: Oil and filter every 50 hrs

JPASS wrote: I use Mobil 1 15w50 every 50 hours with Mobil 1 filter as well.

Nautiquehunter wrote: Mobil 1 15w50 every 50 hours on both.

quinner wrote: motor oil change intervals remain every 50hrs

Morfoot wrote: General rule of thumb for changing oil in our boats is 50 hours

*and

you wouldn't want 40 hour oil sitting in your engine all winter waiting for the next 10 in spring.