2 Questions for the boat boys

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   In replacing my shaft (stock 1/40) I discovered 2 things: the original seemed to have drilled indents where the set screws fell on the coupling and I had a castle nut on the prop where the new method is to use a nylock with cotter pin on the end of the shaft.  I replaced the stock federal with a new 1210 ACME. The new ACME's hub is 2 3/4" wide and the federal is 2 3/8".
To make a long story short, should I pre-drill indents into the shaft for the set screws and how do I get a cotter pin hole to end up where the new nylock ends which is quite a bit further out on the shaft thread than the castle nut ended.

The shafts are exactly the same length.

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MustangMadness Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: April-15-2014 Location: Seacoast NH Status: Offline Points: 114	Post Options Post Reply Quote MustangMadness Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 2 Questions for the boat boys Posted: October-10-2014 at 5:28pm
	In replacing my shaft (stock 1/40) I discovered 2 things: the original seemed to have drilled indents where the set screws fell on the coupling and I had a castle nut on the prop where the new method is to use a nylock with cotter pin on the end of the shaft. I replaced the stock federal with a new 1210 ACME. The new ACME's hub is 2 3/4" wide and the federal is 2 3/8". To make a long story short, should I pre-drill indents into the shaft for the set screws and how do I get a cotter pin hole to end up where the new nylock ends which is quite a bit further out on the shaft thread than the castle nut ended. The shafts are exactly the same length.
	I like a 6' beam on a small lake... My Muscleboat 1975 Mustang 225 307RH

SNobsessed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102	Post Options Post Reply Quote SNobsessed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: October-10-2014 at 7:15pm
	I doubt very much that you will find the indents while pushing on a rapidly cooling hot coupler. If you really want them, I would drill them after you have the shaft & coupler assembled. (carefully drill through the threaded holes). It doesn't take much of a drill point to hold the screws, they are kind of redundant anyway. Supposedly, you don't need a cotter pin with nylock nut. Just don't use the nylock nut too many times, it looses a little grip each time.
	“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin

MustangMadness Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: April-15-2014 Location: Seacoast NH Status: Offline Points: 114	Post Options Post Reply Quote MustangMadness Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: October-11-2014 at 8:42am
	So I don't need the set screw indents or a cotter pin? Thanks!
	I like a 6' beam on a small lake... My Muscleboat 1975 Mustang 225 307RH

SNobsessed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102	Post Options Post Reply Quote SNobsessed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: October-12-2014 at 12:17am
	Cotter pin is not needed on a NEW nylock nut. On the coupler set screw indents, I was wrong to imply you don't need them at all - as the OEM design came with them.
	“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin

2 Questions for the boat boys

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