Faded Deck

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   Hi all,

Im the proud new owner of a '90 SN.  The side gel is in gorgeous shape, but the top deck could use some attention- it is slightly yellowed.  I have removed a few warning labels and the gelcoat underneath is a much brighter white.  I have tried on/off hull cleaner, color restorer, cleaner wax, and rubbing compound (by hand) and none have been able to get the whiteness all the way back- the outline of the sticker is still visible.

Is my best option to wet sand?  Or are there cut polishes or compounds that will get the job done when applied with a buffer or grinder?  

Thanks!

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TRBenj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21109	Post Options Post Reply Quote TRBenj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Faded Deck Posted: November-26-2005 at 1:48pm
	Hi all, Im the proud new owner of a '90 SN. The side gel is in gorgeous shape, but the top deck could use some attention- it is slightly yellowed. I have removed a few warning labels and the gelcoat underneath is a much brighter white. I have tried on/off hull cleaner, color restorer, cleaner wax, and rubbing compound (by hand) and none have been able to get the whiteness all the way back- the outline of the sticker is still visible. Is my best option to wet sand? Or are there cut polishes or compounds that will get the job done when applied with a buffer or grinder? Thanks!

stang72 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608	Post Options Post Reply Quote stang72 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: November-26-2005 at 3:04pm
	I am in the wet sand mode with a 72 SN...all by hand.I am only doing a small portion at the water line...the rest restored quite well using a heavy 3m cut with a high speed buffer. If you are trying to compound by hand...you won't get it! Before you try and wet sand, I would recommend purchasing a high speed buffer...the kind that looks like a grinder(6" wheel)with adjustable speeds.I use the thich foam pad.Cost you about $60.00.Start with a heavy cut and follow up with a polish to remove any swirls...and wax! The shine will be mirror! If the fade is still present...wet sanding will do it...and do it by hand.It will take some time.If you wet sand there are several posts dealing with that task. You can experiment in a small area...start with 400 move up to >>>600>>>800>>>1000 compound and polish. High speed buffer...really makes the job easier and will give you the end results that you are wanting!!!
	stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! The Super Air

TRBenj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21109	Post Options Post Reply Quote TRBenj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: November-26-2005 at 3:59pm
	I take it you are using a rotary buffer as opposed to an orbital buffer? I have heard that these can be tricky to master- I take it there is still the possibility of introducing swirl marks? Perhaps CC's thick gelcoat allows for a greater margin of error and makes this project less dangerous for a novice... When you say "cut" and "polish" are you referring to a chemical product to be applied with the buffer, or the buffer pad itself? Specifics would be great! Where did you find a high speed buffer for $60? The ones I see at Home Depot look closer to $200. Then again, maybe a quality unit is a worthwhile investment. I did search quite a bit here about wet sanding- specifically the post you started. Great to hear you are seeing good results. Lots of great info here- thank you!

stang72 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608	Post Options Post Reply Quote stang72 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: November-26-2005 at 5:46pm
	Rotary...yes. Mine is a Vector 7 " polish/sander...purchased at a local auto parts store for $69.00 (as I remember).On gelcote they are not hard to master..paint is a different story...you can burn paint. I do like the adjustable speed....it can , at the slowest setting,be easier to first learn.The foam screw on type buffing pad works well for removing oxidization and poishing...easy to work with too!Use plenty of compound...keep it wet!You will quickly have it down...and it's the only way to really make it shine! Cut and polish...they are compounding products (liquid paste)...best to buy on line or at an autobody shop...the heavy cut compound will remove 1000 grit scatches but leave a small amount of swirls...the polish is a light cut that removes the swirls...I compound with 3M heavy cut, polish with 3M marine polish and finish with 3M marine wax.Walmart carries the polish and wax.These products are easy to find. The end result..is a smooth mirror glassy finish!!!
	stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! The Super Air

stang72 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608	Post Options Post Reply Quote stang72 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: November-26-2005 at 6:02pm
	Oh...it you do try wet sanding...keep in mind , you will need to do the entire deck and all top surfaces...otherwise you will see a difference where it's not wet sanded(colorwise). If you compound it out...it may not restore all the color back...but it might look really good.On my orange SN , under the step pads , the gel is brighter...but ,it polished out so well , I don't feel any need to wet sand...getting a good smooth shine is all it needed to look nice. The 3M heavy cut is called " perfect it 3000 "
	stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! The Super Air

TRBenj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21109	Post Options Post Reply Quote TRBenj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: November-26-2005 at 7:40pm
	Great info- thanks! I think I am going to do some wet sanding. I want the color restored completely. There is one spider crack on the bow that will need to be repaired and I want the deck as white as possible. I will have to look into new decals for the stern. I think I will also invest in a decent rotary buffer to do the compounding properly after sanding. It looks like I should start with 600 grit and then move to 800 or 1000 grit before compounding. Ill hit the deeper scratches with 400 first. Sound about right?

stang72 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608	Post Options Post Reply Quote stang72 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: November-26-2005 at 10:12pm
	You will certainly need the rotary buffer...or your shine won't come out. Start with the 600...depending on how deep the fade goes ...if it's too slow move to 400 or even 320. Don't go lower than 320 though ..220 will start too cut a bit deep. I will warn you...it gets quite old after a while...I work on small sections for an hour or so a few times a week. Foot by foot, I am gaining on it! Best of luck and show us the results.
	stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! The Super Air

markb Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: December-24-2004 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 76	Post Options Post Reply Quote markb Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: November-27-2005 at 3:29pm
	I know one other person has mentioned it but it may be worth having a look at the island girl range of products. May be less hard and destructive work on your deck. I've had a good chat to the local distributor and sounds very promising and pretty inexpensive.

Faded Deck

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