MV-1: Step-by-step teardown, clean and assemble.

Tim:
Correct as always - Non-OEM for CCs...... They are sold as replacements.... the guts are almost identical ...but the MV-3 has the swooshy look on the throttle arm and faceplate...... See above!

Steve, PM sent.

Edit: My eyes were playing tricks on me. I thought your post said MV2.

I need to do an update to my post above. In the last two weeks or so I discovered that when I installed my MV-2 into the boat, the leverage I was able to put on the throttle was easily able to over ride the safety on the throttle. If you look at the photos of my breakdown you'll notice how very worn the "TOP" piece is on my throttle. Since we can't seem to find a source for these anywhere I was considering just machining one of my own.

Then, I found something on eBay and last week I won a NOS MV-2. It arrived in it's original box yesterday and included an original set of pins, cotters, and mounting screws (this was a surprise since the auction only mentioned the mounting screws). I won't give away the price I paid, but it was a very good deal. I think this likely was because the seller noted it was set up for a left-hand installation. A quick check of the MV-2 owners manual confirmed that all that was needed to change to a right-hand configuration was to remove a set screw, flip the throttle over and presto - right hand configuration.

I sure wish there were a way to restore the "TOP" pieces, because that is the only thing needed to fix these parts to brand-new functionality. Well, that and the springs that break all the time.

My eBay win is below. I've since flipped around the throttle arm to the correct configuration. It also came with a neutral sensing electronic switch that is not needed, which I have removed:

I am not an expert but I'd say that your cam looks oddly worn. My MV-2, which is similar but not the same, didn't have that wear pattern at all. I do not believe that there are parts available for these controls unless you find a used one somewhere to scavenge for parts. I would grease things up with a good amount of white lithium grease, put it all back together and see how it works. You might be pleasantly surprised. If it is not satisfactory you may just need a new unit.

That arm you think is shortened looks relatively normal to me.

Super. Thank you, Chris. Added this thread to the FAQ.

Chris - What happened to the photos in this thread?

Does anybody have pictures of how the shift and throttle cables attach to the back of this.

When I bought my boat, the throttle cable was not attached, and before I tear it apart, it would be nice to have a better idea of how to proceed.

Thanks!

Its hard to tell, but here's what happened. I took the silver casing off and things popped out on me...nervous feeling :). I couldn't really tell how many things came out, but when I cleaned up the area I was working in, I found one ball bearing. The small spring was still inside (not the larger one underneath the sliver plate like you mention, but rather the smaller one stuck in grease) but I thought perhaps two bearings popped out on me. I thought that I placed the bearing back in the correct place, but am not sure. I must not have put it back in the correct place, hence the "slide" I mentioned.

The problem I had was that at about the 10 o'clock position when you put the throttle down it was VERY hard to push down to go faster. This made it very hard to control speed while wakeboarding. I think the problem was that the nut came loose that connected the throttle. It wasn't until I had it all apart and read your post that this made sense to me. Anyways, after I put it all back together that problem was solved.

I might need to tweak the distance that the cables have; meaning how you can screw the connectors up and down before they connect to the throttle (bad description, I know). There is probably an art to it to get it just right.

I think the bearing now isn't catching the hog-out area. It seems to function fine, it just doesn't catch the hog-out so it is easier than it should be to go in and out of neutral.

Again, thanks for the step-by-step. It should probably be put in the forum hall of fame or something!

What holds the neutral button in neutral? Is it 2 ball bearings within the silver case? I took mine apart today, and now the button just slides in and out with no real "pop" like it used to. There is nothing to keep it from going in and out except engaging the transmission.

Thanks for the informative post! This was awesome! I couldn't believe it

KRoundy wrote: Some questions for the CCF gang: The brass pins that go to the control cables are very worn. Can I get new ones somewhere? Kevin

Kevin, THESE old things ?

   And these go with it

All You Have To Do Is Ask and YOU Shall Receive

Update: I don't need a new "TOP" piece, it just needed a new spring. I got one at a local hardware store for 0.60 cents (thanks for the advice, Marty!). The remainder was just cleaning and new grease. It works like new! I referenced this page a lot and also took lots of pictures along the way (which is always a good idea).

All apart on my kitchen table:


The completed project, with my beautiful new blue throttle knob!


If you'd like all the gory details:
WordPress blog

When are we going to create a "How To" forum on CCF?

Took mine apart tonight (it is a MV-2, but essentially the same ideas) and this was SO helpful! Thank you.

Some questions for the CCF gang:

The brass pins that go to the control cables are very worn. Can I get new ones somewhere? Also, the "latch" that you move by lifting on the plastic seat below the throttle to push the throttle forward or back is very worn and is not functioning as intended. Can I purchase one of these somewhere?

Kevin

To change a cable you don't have to remove the control. If you want to make it easier you can remove the lever that the cable attaches to with one bolt.Get your self a mirror and when you replace make sure you mount that lever back in the position it was in.

excellent post, my throttle cable broke so i need to replace it and I'm having a hard time with the three Philips screws on the outside of the housing, i got one nut off from the back, but even after that i couldn't move the Philips screw at all.. but I'm guessing that it will be near impossible to get the swivel bracket screw for the throttle cable off without having the control taken off it's mounting but this post shows me what needs to be taken apart to get the control off

Just thought I'd document the process since I'm probably not the first one to tear into once of these without knowing what they're getting into.

It's all back together and functioning properly on the boat now. Still not as smooth as I'd like it to be, looks like I'll be replacing the shifter and trans cables as well.