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GT-40 bogs/lacks top end speed

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Bri892001 View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-31-2013 at 1:57pm
Nice!
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scooter t View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2013 at 1:47pm
Hey Brian - I did replace the plug wires back on 7-19, and have been out 5 times since then and the boat has run perfect. I had to go at least 3 times before I felt for sure it was fixed. I appreciate your help.
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2013 at 12:58am
Hi Shawn, Did you get a chance to try the new spark plug wires?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2013 at 5:55pm
Thank you for the advice. Wires have been ordered and I will let you know if that is the fix.
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2013 at 4:23pm
I would go with the wires specified for your motor to be on the safe side. I think it's more the length (to get around the marine exhaust manifolds) that makes them marine more than anything.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK120015

These are a nice to have to help organize your wires and keep them from hitting stuff: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-9-28150/overview/

I wouldn't say that hitting the block is automatically a problem... but if the wire insulation were to chafe against something moving like a pulley or melt on something hot... well like the block, then yeah, it could be a problem. Although, I think some contact is normal and un-avoidable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2013 at 3:45pm
The Distributor Cap looked ok. If I were to replace the wires, do they have to be marine grade or can I pick some up at the local part store? One thing we noticed is how the wires are bundled together and touching the block. There just wasn't a lot of slack there and I could see where if the wires were bad they might ground out on the motor. Is that normal for the wires to be tightly bundled and laying againt the block?
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Bri892001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2013 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by scooter t scooter t wrote:


...
Note that one of the plug wires arced on my hand. Wires are supposedly only a couple of years old according to PO. They are marine grade 8mm wires.
...
Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Very possible that a wire or wires is bad right out of the box.

I'd check the Distributor cap too.

Need to cross the simple things off the list. Basic tuneup items can cause problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2013 at 3:22pm
Hey CCF,

I am still dealing with the same surging issue that I've had for the past 3 summers with no resolve. Thought I would seek your advice again. Fuel pressure @ idle: ~37psi
Fuel pressure w/regulator disconnected @ idle: ~41psi
Fuel pressure @ WOT: ~39psi
Fuel Pressure w/regulator disconnected @ WOT: ~41psi

Motor would surge when under a load (typically between 35-40mph)
Fuel pressure remained consistent during surges

Motor continued to surge irregardless of whether or not the regulator was connected

Schrader valve on the fuel line gave us some issues. It was loose so we tightened it. However, once it was tightened the valve stayed partially open and leaked fuel. We loosened it and this stopped the leak.

Checked resistance in the TPS w/multi-meter. Needle made a clean sweep from idle to WOT.

Note that one of the plug wires arced on my hand. Wires are supposedly only a couple of years old according to PO. They are marine grade 8mm wires.

Not sure where to go from here. When we're at a cruising speed between 35 and 40 (it does surge at slower speeds but it's more noticeable here) the boat feels like it has lost most of its power for maybe half a second and then regains power. It is a very sharp, noticeable contrast. The motor doesn't sputter or sound like it's missing, it just sounds like the key has been switched off and the motor naturally reduces rpms but then instantly regains all power. Sounds like it would either be fuel or ignition related. Is it possible to have fuel problems but still maintain high pressures during the surging?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fly100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2011 at 6:19am
Originally posted by scooter t scooter t wrote:

Hey Guys,
It has been a while since I have updated the thread. Since replacing my HPFP the boat has ran so much better! I wish I could say there have been 0 surging issues but I can't. It has been very minimal though.... only a couple of times. I have been skiing trying to make up for lost time,so all is well.

Fly100, this is what I'm getting out my 1995 SN with the GT40 EFI: 45 mph @ 4800 rpm. Im running a broke mans 3 blade prop LOL.

I'm all smiles because we able to play in slick water.


Scooter T my 4100rpm is WOT and wont rev anymore.thats full tilt including the mirror folded in! :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2011 at 11:11pm
Hey Guys,
It has been a while since I have updated the thread. Since replacing my HPFP the boat has ran so much better! I wish I could say there have been 0 surging issues but I can't. It has been very minimal though.... only a couple of times. I have been skiing trying to make up for lost time,so all is well.

Fly100, this is what I'm getting out my 1995 SN with the GT40 EFI: 45 mph @ 4800 rpm. Im running a broke mans 3 blade prop LOL.

I'm all smiles because we able to play in slick water.
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fly100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2011 at 9:52am
Did a test on mine tonight SN 1996 196 351W. 39 mph @ 4100 rpm it has the Protec conversion dizzy and coil on it.I run LPG and the LPG carb is a very very basic unit.Also I think LPG gives 10% less power (its 60% the cost of petrol here)
With all the above in mind I think im not far off the mark.

Comments ??

FLY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-07-2011 at 12:26am
Walter,
Seems my problem was my high pressure fuel pump. I say that carefully because I haven't been out for a good 2 hour ski yet. The initial ride was smooth but I wont know for sure till maybe Thursday when I go looking for slick water.

What exactly is your boat doing?
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 9:05pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

I'm thinking you have a fuel pressure problem. The pressure should stay constant from idle to WOT.
I think it could be two things
1) HP pump going bad. (not maintaining pressure)
2) Fuel regulator stuck/gummed up, not fully closing. (Allows too much fuel to return to tank when accelerating. )
The fuel regulator opens with vacuum to allow the extra fuel not needed at idle and low rpm to return to the tank. As you throttle up the vacuum decreases and the regulator valve closes more, routing more fuel to the rails to maintain the 39+/- 3 psi

Since the fuel pressure starts at 40 then is fading with out the engine running I don't think its a vacuum problem.


The HP pump was the first of the two original problems I felt it could be.
As for RPM's you should be able to get 5,200 and around 47-48 mph with the right prop. I have the 1442 on mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 5:53pm
I didn't suspect it would. So its actually better than candy, cause after you lick the red off its not as good. Ha
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 5:05pm
Nope, I always get excited too. I've recently converted some friends and relatives to slalom/wakeboard nuts and that keeps the fun going too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:59pm
No.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:57pm
The weather is not favorable for a ski today but I will run her first chance I get. I will pay attention to my RPM plus carry my GPS to see exactly where I stand.

This whole boat deal has been crazy. I'm 41 and I'm like a kid in a candy store when it comes to going for a ride/ski. For you guys with more ownership time under your belt, does that ever change?
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:42pm
prop can be a determinant factor on wot speed...
anyway I was just kidding! lol...
Oh I´m getting 47-48mph(gps) wot @4700rpm (not sure if my tach is accurate) with the acme 1442.
I have a fresh carbed 351w with gt40p heads, perfomer intake, CR cam, 310 hp...
<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:41pm
That does seem to be a little on the low side, at least for an early GT40 in a fast No Wake Zone hull. You should be pulling all of 4800 RPM, if not closer to 5000. Speed will vary depending on how fast or slow your particular hull is, but I would say that 46-48mph would be more typical.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:39pm
Oh, I think it was the angle of your avatar picture that made me think it was a sport. It kind of makes the front look longer.

Sounds like you're in the right range for RPMs. Yeah, I'd bed the difference has something to do with the prop then.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:31pm
I think she was turning about 44-4500 RPM.... Some where close. If I'm not mistaken spec's are 4600 at WOT. Bri you mentioned the Sport, I have a 95 Ski Nautique Signature Edition. Some where earlier Gun-Driver said he is running 48 at WOT and we have the same boat, but he has a different prop. I have the factory 3 blade prop for now.
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 3:51pm
Do you know what your RPMS are at WOT? Are they close to spec for that engine?

45mph doesn't sound bad to me. The Sport Nautique is a little bigger/heavier than a Ski Nautique, so I would think it wouldn't go quite as fast with the same motor.

That doesn't sound like a lot of weight but it is some weight and if they were in the front, that could matter too. Do you have the stock 3 blade or an ACME?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote waltmagfire Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 3:36pm
on which fuel pump?
I'm having similar problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 3:02pm
So what should my speed be at WOT with a 95 GT 40 that has 350 hours and a 3 blade prop? How much does weight matter because I had 280+ pounds in the boat plus my 170?
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 2:32pm
45 is in the low side though....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 12:15pm
That's good to hear. Glad you found it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-05-2011 at 12:28am
Hello Guys,

Want to update on my surging issues. I spoke with Vince from Ski Dim on Thursday and told him my situation. He called PCM and talked with a tech there. At that time I was ready to order a new FPR... but PCM said based on what I had told them that it was probably my HPFP. So I ordered one, but before I installed it I did test the fuel volume from the LPFP to rule it out. It was good to go, so I put the new pump on this afternoon and went for a quick splash.

I am happy to say she ran like a top!! My top end went from from 38 to 45 and I didn't notice any surging. I only had 30 min of daylight, so I can't say for certain it's a done deal. But I'm felling pretty good about it

Thanks a million those who shared their knowledge!! If the surging haunts me I will let you know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scooter t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2011 at 4:43pm
Gun-Driver I know exactly what your saying. Down here in the south they would tell you.... "sho you right" (sure your right).

Bri892001.... that has been my gut feeling all along. That's the direction I am going. I have to order it, so maybe in a week I will have some good news.
I Love to ski, but what I Love more is watching my children learn to Love it too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2011 at 1:34pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

...
2) Fuel regulator stuck/gummed up, not fully closing. (Allows too much fuel to return to tank when accelerating. )
The fuel regulator opens with vacuum to allow the extra fuel not needed at idle and low rpm to return to the tank. As you throttle up the vacuum decreases and the regulator valve closes more, routing more fuel to the rails to maintain the 39+/- 3 psi...


Originally posted by scooter t scooter t wrote:

...
I was not getting 39 psi while just turning the key on even though the FP was pressurizing. I would have to switch it on and off 2-3 times before it reached 39 psi. Cranked and in neutral I have 34, in gear up to 2000 rpm I have 34. I pulled the vacuum hose from the FPR and I got 40 psi and the rpm increased.


Just connected the dots here, it looks like it could be related to your fuel regulator.

Think about it, by removing the vacuum line, you are removing all vacuum. This mimics a throttle full opened condition and therefore puts more throttle to the rails and sends less to the tank.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2011 at 12:19am
The problem with these GT-40 EFI/MPI is that even though they're strong and efficient running motors they are hard to trouble shoot on descriptions. The computer monitors and controls everything from spark advance,fuel/air mixture,temperature,oil pressure to a self preserving knock sensor.
So lets say you get some bad gas its hard to pin point the problem because if the motor starts to detonate due to the poor quality fuel the motor protects itself with the knock sensor. So to diagnose a simple fuel problem it's harder with out putting the motor on the computer box to check codes and so forth.
This was a rough explanation but I hope you get the point I was trying to make.
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