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JoeinNY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-02-2011 at 12:05am
They were 450, that was 4 engine builds ago so it has been a while.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 9:58pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

I have used tristatecylinderheads.com before and was happy (however since then they have become thier number one seller and gone up $150 in price) others have used clearwater http://cylinder-heads.com/products.cfm..


Either they gave you a deal or you got them awhile ago Joe,I just checked their site,they are the same price as I paid 2 years ago. Anyway they are a good deal,I had that much tied up in a rebuilt set 20yrs ago
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 3:29pm
Tim, you were right...called the wrong place. For future reference this is the place to find the gt-40p heads. 205 a piece and 50 bucks shipping.

I talked with John back in parts who said it would be 2 days to work the heads and 4 to ship so I should see them sometime wednesday. I'm going to have them sent right to the machine shop since I'm scheduled to be out of town next week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:51pm
The square fiberglass motorbox that CC started using in 1970 (though '81, I believe) should fit a 351w under it just fine. It was the earlier (through '69) swoopy glass boxes that arent wide enough for the larger block. I agree that starting with a 351w would be preferred IF you can source all the other parts (block, distributor, etc) for cheap. Since Chris had already started putting money into cleaning up his 302, then sticking with the smaller block makes sense- it will weigh a few lbs less too.

I have yet to see a stock 1st gen Mustang hit 50, though Ive seen a few 2nd gen Mustang/Skier/Tiques do it. The hp difference (~10hp) isnt big enough to blame... I think that, on average, the 2nd gen hull is faster. There are a few slow ones out there (like my Skier and Reid's '73 Stang) that plow or underperform somewhat, but Ive actually yet to see a Tique that doesnt bounce at high speeds without requiring weight in the back. Reid has measured the hook on both and says the 2nd gen has less... so that may be why.

I think the Tique with the single tracking fin tracks and turns 100% better than the un-finned boats (1st and 2nd gens alike), though Id never change the way the earlier boats handled... thats part of their charm. The 1970+ rudder may not be the best out there, but its certainly better than the "lillipad" rudder that came on all 68 and earlier Stangs. The recessed strut also seems to be a better design on the 2nd gens.

Chris, I just sent you an email. Clearwater (cylinder-head.com) should have the heads youre looking for. I believe you forgot an important detail. Youre not looking for "GT40" heads, you want the "GT40p" heads. Theyre not the same. The P heads flow better, are cheaper and are more readily available. Tristate has them too (at a $200 premium) though they come with better valvesprings and supposedly a better valvejob. If going with a cam with more than .500 lift (which a 331 might not mind) then the better valvesprings are probably advised anyways. I dont think Reid's Speedpro is that aggressive though- so youre ok with either set when paired to that cam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:39pm
thanks yes i meant outside dimensions
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:36pm
If you are talking about external size for chevy blocks like small block vs big block.. then no ford is not the same. The 302w block is a different external size than the 351w block. The difference is not hugh and many parts can be shared with some work but don't assume anything will swap directly. The 351 cleveland block is not commonly found marinized but it is actually in the big block family.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:30pm
so in other words you could need new supplies of underwear in either hull.

Joe does ford only have 2 block sizes like chev?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:23pm
A fresh 302 bored .030 over with the aforementioned gt40ps, mild cam, and intake will walk all over a 351w with stockish heads. The stroked 302 will also still fit under the doghouse.

As for what hull's are fast, and which ones handle better.. no real winner between the earlier (mid to late 60's) and later ( early 70's) mustangs/skier/skylark as far as I can tell. Neither handles worth a darn compared to any of the ski nautiques, and both could use considerable rudder improvements if you are actually going to see the mid 50s IMHO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:16pm
seems like a lot of work and $ when you could freshen a 351? i know i am not a ford guy so enlighten me . oh and the gen one hull? faster seems to come at a cost . the way it handles causes a steep rise in underwear costs. if i could do it again i would leave that one stock and build your style hull into a 55 plus
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:14pm
I have used tristatecylinderheads.com before and was happy (however since then they have become thier number one seller and gone up $150 in price) others have used clearwater http://cylinder-heads.com/products.cfm..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 2:09pm
Your right Eric! I should have had them look at making me a 351 but we already had the block done and it's sitting waiting to be built.

Called Cylinderheads.com today to order some gt-40's, said they didn't have any in stock. I looked around a bit this morning but haven't really had a chance to dig into search. Anyone have any leads?

Once I get the heads we'll be ordering a stroker kit and then starting the build. Hopefully we can find something soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 10:05am
if you look at it this way, "347 is only 4 cu in's away from a 351"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 10:11pm
Chris sorry to hear about you grandfather. It is good that you have such a close family and you can be there for each other.

Looks like the motor is going to be a good one!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 8:31pm
This must be the intake?



Thoughts? It's in Ames, Iowa. I've got a buddy up there who can snag it for me an bring it back over the weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 8:24pm
Reid, You are the man! Let me know where you spotted the intake, I'll do some searching as well. I'll be sure to stock up before GL11, just let me know your favorite. Looks like we are going to be able to attend this year as long as nothing pops up! Or better yet, I'll keep you posted on my tentative trip to Raleigh to see my buddy who just moved out there!

In unfortunate news, It's not looking like we got the house with the shop. This is a blessing in disguise as my grandfather's health is quickly declining and they're giving him hours/days. I was out visiting him this morning and he was the witty/cleaver man I've known for so long. We're all hoping for the best and planning for the worst. As of now, It looks as if I'll be taking care of the farm and horses when the time comes. Grandma will be living with mom and dad until we decide what will happen to the farm. Everything happens for a reason, just another example how the big guy upstairs works things out.

So hopefully I'll get to put a little more time, energy and money into the motor now that I am pretty confident my wallet isn't going to be tied up over the next few months.   

I did get to stop by the machine shop over lunch and look at the broken heads and the newly bored block. Everything looks great...well, except the old heads. I talked with John and he's going to wait until we see the heads to order the stroker kit and then we'll go from there! I would have snapped some pictures but my camera was dead.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2011 at 7:29pm
Chris, when's your birthday? Oops, saw where we just missed it in Dec, but what the heck, if you stick with the stroker route and I'll give you one of those Speedpro-type cams, in exchange for all the beer I can drink at our next outing we both attend. And I saw a brand new intake on ebay for $109.00, IN IOWA, of all places. 331 vs. 347, I'll stay out of that one for now.       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 2:32pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

In his opinion, stroking with out a cam wouldn't utilize the $ spent in the stroker kit as much.

Chris, that is absolutely 100% correct. With 331ci and P heads and the stock cam and intake, you'd be way underoptimized. Probably ~270hp @ 4000-4200 RPM. Add a cam and intake and youre looking at 300-320hp@5000 RPM.

The only reason to not get a cam and intake now is cost. If youre looking to save $400, skip the cam and intake now since they can be done later relatively easily. Dont trim the stroker from the budget, as that cant be re-done later.

If you can stretch the budget a little now to do both, you'll get the best results, obviously.

Reid may have a line on other good RH cam vendors. He may even have a few Speedpro cams on the shelf that would be a big improvement over stock. That being said, for a custom grind, Cam Research is your best option, IMHO. Dont let them talk you into being too conservative, but their grinds seem to be very good. Theyre only marginally more expensive ($50) than an off the shelf grind from Comp- which has been shown to leave a good amount of hp on the table.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 2:17pm
Tim, I'm going to try and get the prop pulled and check everything out next week. Was busy finishing up a trailer for the Chris Craft this week so I can drag it up to Wisconsin today.

I talked to Reid last night about his Mustang and 347. His opinion was to go with a stroker, heads and a cam to get the most bang for my buck. In his opinion, stroking with out a cam wouldn't utilize the $ spent in the stroker kit as much. He also mentioned there are other options for good cam's at a cheaper rate, I'm going to do some looking outside of Cam Research just to be sure. If anyone has any good leads I'd appreciate the heads up or a better description of what I should look for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:40pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:


With these upgrades would I still be looking at an ACME 1210?

Actually no, I dont think so. You'll want something steeper with the extra hp. Even my sisters 302 with a hotter top end needed more prop. With extra cubes, you'll definitely need to go bigger. The new 12.5x13 Acme would be interesting to try- the only person I know who has run one is Reid (on his 347 Mustang). That would knock the revs down the most, Im guessing. A 12x13 OJ is probably best if you stay at 302ci. If you go to 331ci, both the 12x14 and 12x15 OJ's should be considered along with the 12.5x13 Acme. Do you have a 12x14 Federal now? That would have been the original prop... if so, you may want to baseline your performance before buying something new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:34pm
That sounds very appealing to me as well Tim. Since it will be used as a workhorse when it's at our home lake towing kids and visitors around....and efficiency is always a plus. I'd really love to just dive in and do the whole thing right now, but the responsible side of me is saying to take it one step at a time.

If I can get this thing dialed in like it was before I think I will be in great shape. It fired up faster than any boat i'd been in and was smooth as silk, just a little noisy!

With these upgrades would I still be looking at an ACME 1210?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:24pm
While it would be far from optimized without the cam, I would guess you'd be pretty comparable in hp with the bigger cubes and P heads vs. a H/C/I upgrade. While your hp peak would be a bit lower (4000-4500 rpm instead of 5000), you'd have a bit more torque with the extra cubes.   If you wanted to, you could run a steeper prop and cut RPM's at all speeds.

To add a cam and intake later would be minimally invasive- no need to pull the motor. Youre talking an easy 1-2 day project, tops.

Once you catch the speed bug (and you will) then youve got an easy way to add power down the road. If somehow you lose interest (ha!), you still have a great performing boat for the same amount of money- with a fresh bottom end that should last a long time. The extra torque will be very nice and being able to underturn (mph vs. rpm) at all speeds is pretty darn luxurious- and probably more efficient.

If money is tight, slap that old distributor back on for now- that can be changed later too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:54pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Chris, congrats on the house (and shop!).


Thanks Tim, we'll see what happens. Could be a great situation if it ends up happening, if not I'm in no hurry to take on any debt!

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Tom makes a good point- you want to fully understand exactly what youre getting. What services will be included, what parts he's using. Then you can figure out where your money is best spent.


351w with upgraded top end = 320-330hp
331-347 stroker with upgraded top end = 300-330hp
302 with upgraded top end = 260-280hp
302 with head upgrade only = 240-250hp
stock 302 = 220hp    


If you all think that heads and a 331 are my best option with the stock cam and intake then I am open to that option although I would really like to have this thing done and not have to tear into it again. (I have a Skier that is dying for my attention!) If my math is correct, I would be around 270hp with the heads and a stroker kit, basically the same as a stock bottom end and an upgraded top end?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kytom2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:49pm
If the block been hot tanked then its completly apart. The crank, rod bearings and main bearings have been removed.

New bearings will be required during reassembly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:42pm
Tom, as stated above, the rods and bearings are in great shape, this motor only has 400 hours. They've already had everything in the hot tank and cleaned up. Yes, the cylinders will be honed as well as bored. Not sure about the crank, I'll have to check with John on that one.

I'm going to go ahead and call on the Gt-40p's today so we can hopefully see them next week? Intake and cam will follow shortly after.

One thing we haven't touched on yet is ignition. I know some like to stay with points but I am open to suggestions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:34pm
Chris, congrats on the house (and shop!).

Tom makes a good point- you want to fully understand exactly what youre getting. What services will be included, what parts he's using. Then you can figure out where your money is best spent.    

If I were in your shoes, I would prioritize my wants/needs as follows:

1. Fix things that are broken. Heads, pistons.

2. Freshen the bottom end while youre in there. New bearings and seals at a minimum.

3. High performance top end (cam/intake).

Things that are being replaced or refurbed, you need to look at the extra cost associated with replacing with better parts. Look at the heads, crank, rods.

I said it before and Ill say it again, if that $400 is critical, put it into the bottom end now because you cant do it later. You'll still get a good power boost with 331ci even if youre running the stock cam and intake for a year or 2. Do the heads now since your old ones are junk. If and when you finally decide to upgrade the other pieces, you wont have to undo any of the other work you did on the bottom end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kytom2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:15pm

What new parts are part of this (new rod and main brgs)? What machine work is a part of this (Crank polished or turned and polished)? It's apart is it going to get hot tanked? When its bored is it going to get power honed for the correct fits?

I guess what I'm saying is I'd be asking for an itemized list of of parts and services I'm getting for my thousand bucks.

Whatever you decide to do, get the most you can for your money, and get it done right. If not it will cost you more in the long run.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:44pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

What is your ballpark estimate for the rebuild if you don't mind me asking?


Keegan, the quote I had from the shop to put it back together using stock parts was 1,000 bucks. With gt-40's cam and intake I'll be expecting to be around 1500-1700.

At this point, I have a lot of options and I just need to weigh whats the best one for me at this point. I haven't gotten too caught up into speed and more HP (yet) so I am leaning towards a more mild upgrade on this boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:39pm
Tim, what should I expect as far as a price range for what they are doing. I thought it was pretty fair considering they have time in taking the motor down, cleaning everything up, will be boring the block 30 over, magnifluxed and putting everything back together. The estimated labor cost was going to be about 700 bucks to do the entire thing.

Only reason I am price sensitive to the 400 is that I literally just put in an offer on a house not more than 10 min ago! Not sure what will come out of that but it may effect my thought process on this project. Good news is, it's the one with the big shop I told you about!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

Well, since the bearings, crank and rods are all in great shape I think I am going to stay with the stock bottom

Chris, Im afraid I dont understand exactly what your machine shop is charging you for if theyre not going to refurb the bottom end... install new pistons and assemble the top end? If so, youre getting hosed! I'd be making sure the bottom end was fresh if I were in there that far, unless youre very budget sensitive. If there is a $400 difference for all new parts (stroker at that!) then thats a no-brainer.

As far as speed potential goes, that Ski Tique hull should be faster than the gen 1 Mustang/Skier, FYI!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 4:21pm
What is your ballpark estimate for the rebuild if you don't mind me asking?
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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