Damper Plate Question

Sounds like a damper plate, probably a lose spring. While you're in there, check the teeth on the flywheel and depending on the number of hours, rear oil seal.

I'm going to add some additional questions to this post that I've come up with as I read more and more about this. Looks like this post is going to require some of Eric's expertise.

I've read through a bunch of posts about the damper plate replacement and it is apparent that the best method to tighten up the plate is to tighten the bolts finger tight, then reinstall the tranny/bellhousing to center the damper, then tighten the bolts through the starter hole. In looking my motor over, I've realized that I don't have the traditional starter that I had hoped to have, instead I have a plate attached to the top of the bellhousing with a solenoid or something attached (I don't know the correct name for this). With that in mind, would the next best method for tightening be to leave the bolts finger tight, slide the BH/tranny back on to center, then slide it back out, hoping it's all still centered, then tighten? I'm at a loss since I don't have a traditional starter.

drill a 1" hole on the belhousing at the bolt location and sneak a socket through the hole, your local hardware sells plastic plugs to cover the hole....its well worth doing it this way if you cant sneak through the starter hole

Thanks for the info guys. I had my local Nautique dealer order the Damper Plate yesterday through PCM, so I should have it within a couple of days. I'll try to tackle this project next week or weekend, depending.

I'll probably do a good tranny draining while it's out since I'll be able to access the drain plug. Also going to check the alignment when I get it all back in.

Anything else I should do while I've got it out.

SN - thanks for the heads up.

Eric - I guess I was having a blonde moment when looking for the starter because it was right in front of my face. No need to drill a hole in the bellhousing now. Can I just sneak a socket with an extension through the starter hole to tighten the bolts or does it require a special tool? Trying to make sure I have everything before I get into it.

6, it will be round instead of triangle, I was told you didnt have to space just simply pull it in with the bolts, I decided to space them with hardened washers of the same thickness, the round damper will line up with your bolt circle and you wont have to modify

When I unbolt the tranny for removal, is it better to unbolt the tranny from the mounts or unbolt the mounts from the stringer. Didn't know if one would keep the alignment better than the other.

Thanks SN-

I'm definitely going to align everything once I'm done. Just figured I'd make sure that one way wasn't recommended.

MN - Another trick is to loosen up the mount adjustments while the tranny is up on the bench. It's much easier to break them loose there. I did not do this but wish I had. Breaking them loose in between the stringers was not fun.

Ps - Sorry for my tone above, didn't mean to be critical.

I was able to get everything taken apart, new damper plate off, new damper plate on with 2 Grade 8 washers on each shoulder bolt between the flywheel and new plate, and tranny back together. I left shoulder bolts finger tight, as recommended, to center the new plate.

I am trying to tighten the bolts now through the starter hole, but am having a hell of a time finding the right tool to do it. I bought some crows feet, but they aren't long enough to reach around the OD of the flywheel and damper plate to get to the bolt. Any recommendations on a tool I can buy and where to buy it to finish this job?

or, you can drill a nice hole in the bellhousing which wont affect the integrity of the housing, and you can find plastic plugs at the hardware store, if you have access to the correct tools you could drill and tap th housing to 3/4 npt and pipe plug it.......thats if you cant find a suitable wrench that will work. i use a 90 degree swivel box end gear wrench.
now if you run into problems aligning we will also help you with that, i feel mis-alignment is one of the most important overlooked maintanance requirements on a boat and when aligned you will notice a difference if it was out of align.

I think if you dont shim the damper out, we are going to see early failures on them.
i have no idea what knucklehead designed and put his stamp on the PCM Damper. it simply does not fit and is the only one in existance that will work with the 10 spline PCM trans. I called and was told to simply pull the damper in until its flush, nofcnway, thats wrong, doing it that way loads the plate and puts stress on it
these simple alignment checks and adjustments are what keeps the boats in the water for the short boating season, the weekend warriors always seem to have thier boats at the shop....writing with a smerk

if you run into a problem, even though its the day of the lord and im praying all day you can call my cell phone 330-322-8817
eric

Up/Down is with the jack screws. There should be a square on top of them to turn. You might have to tap on the mount to get it to seat if you lower it. For side-to-side, I used a prybar between the mount & the block, or wherever I could get a bite. It doesn't take much force, at least mine did not.

Mark it with a pencil before you move it, so you don lose track of where you started from. it is easy to go the wrong direction!

Eric - here are the pics. I put one of the front mounts, 2 of the rear mounts, and one of my current alignment. I knocked it out a little yesterday while pulling the transmission...

Current Alignment


Rear Mount 1


Rear Mount 2


Front Mount