"Blown" Ford 351

I imagine that little hole you plugged with epoxy was probably about 1/2 inch in diameter. It was also probably an automotive pump since that hole is where the heater return hose on a car goes. another hole pretty close to that one is for the thermostat bypass on a car application and usually has a pipe plug screwed into it on a marine Small Block Ford circulating water pump

Good morning all, and thanks as usual for the support! I'm heading up to the lake this eve. I do have a Commander and the pump is Sherwood, I remember that. One thing, Last week I tried my version of testing the water flow situation by removing the thermostat and inserting a hose there. Started the engine and the water drained out of the intake under the boat. It didn't appear to go into the engine. Don't know if that says anything to you guys. I called the engine builder and he confirmed I have the RR engine. He said the distr would not have meshed with the cam gear if otherwise. I'm keen on eliminating the raw pump before I have to tear the top down AGAIN. I'll do the uptake in a 5 gallon bucket prolly tomorrow morning.  And just now a crazy thought has occurred to me. I may have installed the wrong water pump. The previous block came from an old Mustang. It came with a water pump. I used it with the last rebuild, to my memory I didn't have a temp problem then but there was a little hole in the top passenger side of the pump in the rear that water was pumping out of. I JB Welded it and went on my way. On this rebuild I used the pump from my original engine because I was concerned about the JB Welded hole. No such hole exists on the pump I have installed now. The hole was not damage, I looked like it was drilled for some reason when the pump was manufactured. By the end of this drama, I will have exhausted every possibility of ***************g up an engine swap, I'm sure! Jeez. Are water pumps interchangeable between RR and SR engines? 

William777 wrote: About the raw water pump being oriented the right way? Doesn't it only fit on the boat one way?

I didn’t go back to confirm if we were talking about a PCM 351w, but assuming we are, the answer is definitely NO.

I'm also a little confused when I compare the photos of Keno and Gary. In Gary's photo it looks like the tab is sticking out of the bottom of the head. In Keno's photo it looks like the tab would be sticking out of the top of the head, unless those gaskets in Keno's photos can be flipped to install? Or, my eyes are playing tricks on me again. I guess the main point is the front holes on both sides are blocked. One gasket bead up and the other bead down? Forgive me if I'm beating the dead horse.  

Look to see if this highlighted tab is out on both front corners. If you are missing one that is the side that is backwards

William777 wrote: I'm back!! Ha! I received the short block from Texas, new rebuild. Some help from a friend and an Oak branch the front yard got it out of my minivan and into the boat. Assembled all the other engine parts, had a hell of a time indexing the distributor this time. Got it tho. Put the boat in the water and it started and ran and then began heating up, and up, and up. Went through timing thinking it was heating due to retarded timing, was wrong there. Now I'm thinking I installed the head gaskets wrong. By the way, I broke two intake manifold bolts of torqueing them to spec, and one of the water pump bolts. Modern bolts are crap? They were replaced prior to the restart. Anyway, now I'm thinking I may have blown up the last engine cuz I probably put the last head gaskets in wrong as well? Overheated it. BTW, I've named her "Perseverance" , it just came to me, from somewhere!! So attached is a photo of an old thread. Can someone confirm this is correct? Thanks, William.

I'm back!! Ha! I received the short block from Texas, new rebuild. Some help from a friend and an Oak branch the front yard got it out of my minivan and into the boat. Assembled all the other engine parts, had a hell of a time indexing the distributor this time. Got it tho. Put the boat in the water and it started and ran and then began heating up, and up, and up. Went through timing thinking it was heating due to retarded timing, was wrong there. Now I'm thinking I installed the head gaskets wrong. By the way, I broke two intake manifold bolts of torqueing them to spec, and one of the water pump bolts. Modern bolts are crap? They were replaced prior to the restart. Anyway, now I'm thinking I may have blown up the last engine cuz I probably put the last head gaskets in wrong as well? Overheated it. BTW, I've named her "Perseverance" , it just came to me, from somewhere!! So attached is a photo of an old thread. Can someone confirm this is correct? Thanks, William. 

Greatest thread ever!

Duane in Indy wrote: William, I think you would be far better off by looking over someones shoulder that is willing to explain every step of a rebuild with you. It looks to me like you are about to go down an expensive road again if you don't reach out for some help.

William initially accepted, then politely turned down an offer for precisely that.
Seems pretty determined to figure this out himself.
I commend his efforts....

Hi Bill

You're doing pretty good for a hairdresser working on an engine

Better than I'd do giving somebody a haircut.

I'd probably practice on Pete's head full of long white hair.

Since you're spending some money I think I'd fork over the money for a Reverse Rotation 351W long block so you're starting with all freshly reconditioned parts and not bolting some old questionable condition heads on the fresh short block.

In the long run I think you'd be better off with the long block, maybe from the same place you're looking at the short block

William, Certainly not being critical and please don't take it that way but I think you are in way over your head. I think you would be far better off by looking over someones shoulder that is willing to explain every step of a rebuild with you. None of us were born mechanics or pro's in our field. We were taught. It looks to me like you are about to go down an expensive road again if you don't reach out for some help. Hope you can find some competent help to lead you along. Just my $.02 worth. Good luck

      There is a deep groove worn in on one side of the journal where the scewdriver is. It does not go all the way around the journal.

I'm unable to identify why it behaved that way, It was moving as your finger would if you twirl it by the knuckle. And then it wasn't after I tore it down. I don't see how I could have found out what was going on without tearing it down. I think your point is, I need to figure that out before I buy another crank but how do I do that?.