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’84 2001 w/rust on the engine

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TheSpleen View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-24-2006 at 1:03pm
Hey all,
I just looked at a 1984 2001; I've sort of got my heart set on that model(not necessarily that year) and I've been looking for one for a while.
Stuff that looked good: guy said exhaust risers/elbows are about three years old, and he has the paperwork for it. The floor felt totally solid. It has a fresh water cooling system (I'll be using in salt, mostly).
The bad was: engine showed 1600 hours on it. There was a bunch of rust on the staarboard side of the engine, down low around the oil pan. Also, the transmission looked like it had been painted (roughly the back half). This was at night; I'll have to go again during the day to get a better look. The tranmission thing kind of throws up a red flag; I'd assume it was painted to cover up being rusted to hell, but I don't know...
About the engine, since it's got the closed cooling system, I assume the inside is fine (rust-wise), but should I be worried about the outside? Is that a big deal?
I'm going to go look at it during the day, do a compression test, and take it out on the water.
Just sort of wondering what people think about the hours on the engine and the exterior rust.
Thanks,
Jared
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82tique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 82tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2006 at 1:41pm
keep looking
Life is Good.
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scott8370 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2006 at 2:40pm
How much is he asking?
Scott
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Bob's2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob's2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2006 at 4:34pm
Exterior rust could be from a leaking stuffing box throwing water on the engine while running, or from condensation while sitting in the winter for 20 years. Th trans being painted could be part of an overhaul. I painted mune before I put it back in the boat. With that many hours you could be looking at a rebuild soon , but one never knows, do one?
Bob Ed
83 2001
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TheSpleen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheSpleen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2006 at 5:01pm
Ad said $5900 OBO, I'm sort of hoping for more like 4,000. The trailer looked pretty crappy,too.
I'm want to go look in the daylight, do a compression test, take it on the water, and see what he'll do about the price...
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81nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2006 at 6:16pm
Jared,

$5900 for that boat with 1600 hours, I think I would pass. $4000 would be ok because you'll probably put a couple grand back into it. I think there are plenty of decent 2001's around for $6000, don't jump at this one.

You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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TheSpleen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheSpleen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2006 at 4:35pm
OK so I took this boat out for a test drive, did a compression test, and looked it over a little better. The floor seemed totally solid, I checked the bolts in the stringers and they all seemed fine. In some places (like where the carpet hangs over the floor, under the engine box) I could actually pull the carpet up a little bit and see the floor; it looked fine. The boat ran really well, except:
1) With my hand on the wheel it felt fine, but as soon as you let go the boat would pull hard to the left. Everything on the bottom, visually, looks fine (as in, fins/rudder/prop lined up and pointing straight). Any thought on what could cause this?

The compression test was iffy. The cylinders read: 130, 125, 90, 122, 125, 122, 105, 112. Some of the spark plugs had what looked to be oil on them (but unfortunately, I didn't note which ones). I didn't try adding oil to the cylinders and re-testing. I'm guessing this suggests it's a problem with the valves' seating?

So... any thoughts on the steering thing, and should I expect to get a year or two out of the engine before having to do something major? If I took the head off, can I just take it to someone to check out/fix (is so, how much does this cost)?

Thanks in advance,
Jared
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Nautique2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2006 at 8:20am
90, 105 and 112 is very questionable. I wouldn't pay more than $4,000 in case you find yourself replacing the engine this summer. You might experience what's called "blow-by", when the compression is bad. Pressure builds up in the crank case and actually blows the dipstick out of its place. Then oil starts spitting out. Not a healthy site. I had four bad cylinders and I couldn't keep my engine from bucking and stalling. As far as the stearing, I don't know enough about it.

See what the other guys suggest.
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82tique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 82tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2006 at 9:13am
keep looking
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Rick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2006 at 9:15am
That Copmpression Screams Rebuild. My engine had seawater in it and I had it rebuilt without a core for around 2K here in San Diego. I also had the BW Transmission rebuilt by the factory for 1K. Hope these numbers help. I think I might keep looking a Closed water cololing system should be around 2500.00 so you could add that to a good 2001 used only in fresh water.
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