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Sam B
Senior Member Joined: November-17-2007 Location: StevensPoint WI Status: Offline Points: 393 |
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Posted: November-17-2007 at 11:39pm |
Hello,
I have just purchased a 1973 nautique with a 351 and the boat runs great. But I took part of the floor up and found wet foam and soft secondary stringers. So Iam removing the foam and replacing the secondary stringers along with a new floor. Am I crazy? I bought the boat for 2k. Also does Acid washing your boat realy work and how long do I leave the acid on the boat? |
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Barracuda
Moderator Group Joined: November-17-2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 998 |
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Sam- Welcome to the site!
You're not crazy. Lot's of guys here have taken on that project. What are you trying to do with the acid? A lot of people use on/ off or slimey grimey to clean the hull. Acetone works very well and won't hurt the gel coat. Use it cautiosly around decals and pinstriping. Post some pics! |
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Sam B
Senior Member Joined: November-17-2007 Location: StevensPoint WI Status: Offline Points: 393 |
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I read on this sight that maratic acid (forgive my spelling)cleans gel coat good. Removing yellowing and stains ext.
This site is awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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The Lake
Platinum Member Joined: May-13-2005 Location: Lk Winnebago MO Status: Offline Points: 1157 |
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Welcome Sam B; you're gonna love that boat! Ask all the questions you think of. Someone here will have an opinion. (muriatic -- I think)
BTW, we love to see pictures of new old boats Chuck |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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I use Hydrochloric acid to clean the bottems, its nasty but it cleans, it also cleans the concrete under the boat, I havnt had a problem with it touching the glass, these of course are boats that sit in the water for the season, it also removes the grime on the sides too
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Sam, I would stay away from the straight acids and use products that are made to do the job. There are plenty of hull cleaners and even some specialty stain removers for gel coat. I would look at one of the marine supplies or if you have a problem finding something, tell us and we will help. You will find lots of help on this site, Welcome.
Stringer rot is the norm and not unusual. The opposite would be! Do NOT stop at the secondary stringers. You do not want to do this project again in the near future. I used the search feature and came up with the following thread on the subject but you can do the same and come up with plenty more!! skibums stringer project |
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behindpropeller
Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2006 Status: Offline Points: 1810 |
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If you have the floor out don't half ass the project and just replace the secondary stringers. Pull the eng. and trans. and do the main stringers too. In 5 years you will be kicking yourself for not doing everything.
Tim |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21130 |
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I dont know why you guys are so eager to multiply the complexity of a project. If the main stringers are solid and dry, why tear into them? If they survived several years being in close proximity to wet foam, what makes you think they'll be susceptible to failure soon after the water is removed and the floor is properly repaired? My take: Remove all water and wetness. Remove all foam. Replace anything thats rotten. Reinforce any areas susceptible to damage/water intrusion (bulkheads, sharp corners, etc). It wont hurt to put a coat of epoxy resin or even a layer of glass over the main stringers- but I wouldnt go through the trouble of pulling the motor and replacing them if theyre fine. Replace foam with new closed cell stuff (or none at all, if you prefer) and seal the floor up properly. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Tim, excellent point but you forgot to add checking the existing wood with a moisture meter. The wood spores that cause rot can't live or develop when the moisture content is below 20%. If it below that level the great. If not then do it now and not later.
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Pete - How do you get the moisture meter into the stringer? Do you drill core holes? Where is the strategic place to drill them?
I would like to investigate without tearing everything apart. Chris |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Chris, I would use a small hole saw just wide enough for the pins of the meter to fit into. Drill low on the stringer. You should be able to get a drill into the bilge around the pylon and then under the floor to the rear of the engine.
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Pete - thanks for the tips. A moisture meter just went on my Christmas list.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Chris, It's in Woodworkers supply's catalog but being new, not on the web site yet. A stud finder and moisture meter in one for $34. I'm sure it's not the best but unless you are going to become a pro and make a carrier out of checking moisture content and looking for studs, it will work. Give them a call at 800-645-9292 and ask for part 150-722 for the "4-in-1 meter
Here's a link to a $42 moisture meter only:woodworkers supply moisture meter |
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