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HELP!! Transmission swap with PCM V-Drive |
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KENO 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10717 |
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 Posted: September-02-2020 at 6:31pm |
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One other thing, I think I should mention that you have a double tapered shaft and it'll pop just like a prop does on the other end of the shaft. Nothing, nothing, then bam it pops.
You just don't have much room to whack the center bolt on the puller with a hammer when things are tight
When the time comes it's a lot easier to put the coupling back on the shaft with the tapered shaft setup. |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10717 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 6:17pm |
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Here's wishin at ya kid
 Are you using a puller with 4 bolts to distribute the force evenly around the flange. CCF phones and photos don't get along too good at all. |
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Liquiddreams
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Joined: September-02-2020 Location: Georgia Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 6:07pm |
Yep, that is me and that is the picture of the devil. Lol Couldn't figure out how to post the pic from my phone. That is the video I watched and got me to where I am. I sprayed some penetrating fluid on it last night, so I'm about to head out there to see if it helped. Wish me luck |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10717 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 5:55pm |
 Here's a picture of a coupler that probably looks a lot like yours. Matter of fact it is yours (or somebody with the same screen name and problem on PN ) Here's a link to a You Tube video down below. Maybe your harmonic balancer puller wasn't strong enough, you're going about it the right way from the description you gave. They can be on there tighter than tight. The method Pete and JQ talk about won't work with your coupler, you're doing it right though
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:49pm |
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William,
Pictures have been lost when CCfan was hacked a couple months ago but I found a old post that may help:
One thing you mentioned that concerns me and that is you said the coupling moved slighly and then locked up. It shouldn't have moved at all. Again, the coupling to shaft is a heat shrink interference fit.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:33pm |
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I'd like to add to the above method. Use fine thread bolts or even grade 8 threaded rod. And then use some "never-seize". Both make it lots eaisier. I like to use threaded rod since you get more threads rather than switching to different length bolts.
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Liquiddreams
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Joined: September-02-2020 Location: Georgia Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:32pm |
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I appreciate the reply and that is the scenario I am use to in my old boat. However, this 2012 has a PCM v-drive so the coupler set up is different. This is my first v-drive setup so I am still getting familiar with it. I am going to try to post a picture later for reference.
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Jonny Quest
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Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2863 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 4:09pm |
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Here is how I removed the coupler from the shaft In my direct drive. First, I removed the safety collar from the driveshaft. Then I removed the bolts connecting the coupler to the transmission flange and separated the coupler from transmission flange. I was able to get 2” To 3” space between coupler and transmission flange. Then I inserted a large, shallow socket between the coupler and transmission flange. I then inserted some grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts through the coupler bolt holes and through the transmission flange. Then by tightening down on the 4 bolts/nuts in sequence, the coupler on the prop shaft was “pressed” off the shaft. Easy Peazy. Hopefully my description makes sense. A V-drive maybe different...
JQ
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2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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Liquiddreams
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Joined: September-02-2020 Location: Georgia Status: Offline Points: 34 |
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Posted: September-02-2020 at 2:04pm |
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First, I hate that my first post is a request for help. Second, I am taking picture along the way to aid others that attempt this down the road. I just found CorrectCraftFan today. A member of PlanetNautique recommended coming to this forum. This job has been fighting me for weeks now. Just bought the boat a few months ago (2012 SAN TE 210) and the transmission cooler went out which got water in the transmission. It started slipping before I caught it. Decided to upgrade from the 40 series to the 80 series instead of rebuilding. Since then It's been one thing after the other. It took weeks to get the transmission due to the Pandemic. The prop was stuck on the shaft when I went to take it off. The previous owners must have never taken off, because it fought me. Even heat wouldn't make it pop off. I ended up buying one of the ACME C-clamp pullers (which is not easy to find in stock right now). Got the prop off finally and started on the inside. Got the transmission cooler changed out to the 12" one with no problems. When I went to remove the shaft coupler it moved about 1/4" inch and now it refuses to let go. It literally bent the puller trying to get it off. Scared to use heat due to the gas tank be in such close proximity.
1. Any ideas on how to get that coupler off? I can pull the shaft forward so the two couplers are separated, but the shaft one is still on there. I have been using a harmonic balancer puller.I thought about trying the ACME C-clamp on it, but I am not sure there is enough clearance. 2. I thought about just putting some wood blocks under the v-drive to support it and then removing it's mounting bolts to slide it back enough to get the transmission out. Not sure if this would work and I am kind of afraid that I am going to mess up the shaft or the strut. Any thoughts on this approach or has some done this approach. I am open to any advice on this swap. I have worked on a lot of straight shafts, but this is my first v-drive. I really didn't think it would be that bad and if it wasn't for the shaft components I don't think it would be. Any one with experience swapping a transmission out that had a v-drive I would love some advice or tips. Anything else I need to worry about? I have been taking pictures with the hopes of uploading them in the end to assist anyone else that does it in the future. |
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KENO wrote: