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351 w/ Holley Carb 4160 - fuel inlet leakage

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    Posted: April-25-2018 at 6:13pm
Don't know. sometimes I see the profile picture of the boat and think it is someone else. there are a few GA members.   
Ive actually never had MD20/20 or Boons Farm.   I am told that I missed out.   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 5:48pm
Hey Steve

What made you think I was from Jawjaw, do I have a drawl in my posts?

Way to hot and not enough of that white stuff for me.

How about we meet in the mountains of North Carolina with a couple bottles of Mad Dog 20/20?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 5:24pm
Steve,
Maybe the picture you found is a bad example?? Note it says "Japanese" style plus as Tim noted 3/8", this one is metric!

Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

umm no it does not.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 5:00pm
Likely too cold for me. Been to KBP Main in August, not cold then.   

Well I guess I will "recalibrate my eyes" now and have a beer here in Central FL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 4:34pm
Trust me you don't want to go there, too cold....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 3:31pm
Well, that's just too far for me to go and see the standard flare tube and fitting of course if there is beer involved then.................................
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 3:16pm
Wow, I come home for lunch and find a good disagreement going on, my name in it and Pete's not involved

Since I took the original picture and I still have the piece of brake line. (there's a bit of a clue right there), I figured I'd take a picture of the end with the label too.

Here it is



And here's a link with info Click on the picture on the left in the link and you'll find a good cutaway of the double flare on the ends of the tubing.

link

And one last thing, here's an outline of the state I live in

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 2:28pm
When did KENO move? I’d try him in NH.

You can also walk into most auto parts stores and look at their 3/8 brake line, which will likely be double flared.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/making-brake-pipes-flaring-tool-bender.4522/page-4

http://www.allmetalssupply.com/product/hydraulic-tube-flaring-tool-kit/


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 2:19pm
Well I guess id have to see the inside. looks too thin though.   Well I not need to calibrate my eyes. I guess ill fly to GA and take a look at Keno's fuel line since this is his photo.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 1:57pm
On a 3/8” line, it sure does. Better go look at your boat again and calibrate your eyes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 1:55pm
umm no it does not.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 1:17pm
Yes it does
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2018 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

OK, so I took my own picture

Here's what you should have with a 351 Ford fuel bowl

If you have more pieces than that, somebody must have made changes over the years

A gasket, the adapter fitting and the fuel line with the flare fitting and it's nut.


This doesn't look like a double flair.............................................
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-26-2017 at 1:10pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Float bowel


Well, Gary, I seem to be having trouble with my bowel these days too...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-26-2017 at 9:48am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Ken, I bought one of those a few years ago and have not had it work out. I have not tried it on a 351 or 302. We originally bought it for a Chrysler with an AFB and it would not fit and I recently tried it on a FE Ford and due to the water jacket on the Wiend intake, it would not fit.   


Save it for a 302/351 with the Holley Ford marine style fuel bowl and it's a perfect fit with the stock manifold height.

These days the ad from Skidim says it's for a 302/351

link to fuel line and fitting page
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-26-2017 at 9:17am
Ken, I bought one of those a few years ago and have not had it work out. I have not tried it on a 351 or 302. We originally bought it for a Chrysler with an AFB and it would not fit and I recently tried it on a FE Ford and due to the water jacket on the Wiend intake, it would not fit.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-26-2017 at 8:56am
Chris

Skidim stuff is always good quality.

Speaking of good quality you should probably consider getting their flexible fuel line kit, part number 80113 in the link below

A little pricey but when you consider that quite a few of those dollars are for the aluminum carb fitting, the fuel line itself isn't a bad price.

It's rubber that's USCG approved, It's a whole lot easier to work with and install and it has all the right adapter fittings for both ends.

You'll never have to screw around with that metal line again and your newly ordered flare wrenches will still come in handy with this line.

link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnelson0641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-26-2017 at 1:12am
Pete - (audible sigh). You're absolutely right, as I learn the basics of this fine engine I need someone a little more mechanically inclined to walk me through some of the finer details. I apologize in advance for the idiotic terms, descriptions, and questions; I understand that there is a TON of basics that I don't know. I appreciate the skepticism and advice to bring in help. That being said, I learn well by establishing my understanding of a system and having others poke holes in it and point out where I'm wrong. With this particular issue, I could not find any manual or descriptions of the fuel line and adapter fittings (SN owner's manual, 351 PCM manual, and the Holley 4160 manual: neither had a description of the fuel bowl, gasket, flare nut, and fuel line), so I resorted to the "Bolt A / Bolt B" description. I now know the proper terms and how the system is assembled.

Todd - You mention Quickfuel install instructions... I couldn't find any Quickfuel parts for the 351, could you link to some? The instructions as well would be nice. I also checked the owner's manual for the pre-start instructions, and all it said was "check the fuel system", but nothing on what to actually check. What I've gathered is: make sure there is no fuel in the sight tube, and no visible leaks. What else should I check?

Could someone give me some background on Skidim? I noticed all of the parts recommended for the fuel system do not have a brand; are they produced by Skidim? Can I trust that Skidim has quality products and if they say it fits my engine/boat that it will?

As for flare wrenches, I just ordered one from Amazon so I don't muck up the flare nut any more.

I'm also going to purchase a gasket and new fuel line since the flare nut on my current one is very mangled and I fear that much more tightening/loosening will strip it completely so I have no grip.

Thanks for the healthy skepticism! I'm here to learn and you guys certainly help.

--Chris N.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote outerbanked Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 10:28pm
Cool Carburetor Tool and Fixed Fuel Line Leak - CorrectCraftFan.com Forums
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27143

What a fuel leak can look like:
https://imgur.com/a/MdGvw

Check out youtube and the reference section of this site. I happened to be looking at the Quickfuel install directions last night. I can't remeber exactly, but the wording was setting like "until tight". Reread the prior posts. You can break the fuel bowel if you over tighten. A blue paper towel is helpful at test fire to look for evidence of a leak. You could take the coil wire off and crank the starter (make sure you have water to your cooling or are in the lake). Your line will be pressurized. I think most would just try not too tight and observe. Keep watching it. Thermal expansion can make it fine at idle but leak once warm. There is a prestart check in your manual. Checking the fuel system is a part of it.
You will get it. You need to get it for you to be self sufficient out there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 8:49pm
Chris,
Maybe it's time to ask for help from a friend who may be more mechanically inclined. I started worrying about the fix when you where referring to "bolt A and bolt B" and now with the Teflon tape it pretty much confirms that help would be a good thing. Honestly, a fuel leak is not something you want to back yard hack!!

BTW, regarding tightening the flare nut, Tim mentioned way back using a "true fuel line wrench" or more commonly called a flare nut wrench.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnelson0641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 8:04pm
HAHAHA well at least we have consensus!

Very good point about the flare nut not needing teflon - that should have been obvious. As for the adapter, my initial reaction to "... the gasket should be enough" is "should be, but apparently isn't." Is there any harm in having teflon on the adapter where it connects to the carb? I'd like to employ this until I can get a new flare nut (because its brass and very close to being stripped) and gasket (because it "should be" enough and I bet a new one would help tremendously).

How tight should the flare nut be? As tight as I can get it with a normal wrench set or should I break out my torque wrench and do it to spec?

--Chris N.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Another NO TAPE ON THE FLARE NUT!!!!
Have you checked to see if your fire extinguisher is charged? Maybe you should get another one as well!!

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I think this might be the first time that Pete, Tim and I all agreed on something, I'm not sure


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 6:37pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

You do NOT want teflon tape on the flare fitting to adapter connection. The threads are not the sealing connection there, and adding tape will more likely cause a very large leak by preventing the flare from bottoming out. I would not add tape to the adapter to bowl connection either- the gasket there is sufficient.


I'm just agreeing with Tim here, like me, Pete and Tim said no sealer or teflon tape...........nothing.

The flare nut threads into the adapter with no gasket or sealer or anything,

There is no gasket because that is a flare fitting and the nut tightens down on the flared end of the tubing to provide the seal with the mating surface inside the adapter.

The seal is the nut squeezing the male and female flares tightly together.

That sounds a little kinky

It might not leak at first, but it will and it won't be pretty.

I think this might be the first time that Pete, Tim and I all agreed on something, I'm not sure
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 6:23pm
You do NOT want teflon tape on the flare fitting to adapter connection. The threads are not the sealing connection there, and adding tape will more likely cause a very large leak by preventing the flare from bottoming out. I would not add tape to the adapter to bowl connection either- the gasket there is sufficient.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnelson0641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2017 at 6:13pm
Hey guys

Just got done re-assembling everything and I completely forgot to take pictures .

In any case, My setup is exactly like the picture Ken provided. The adapter just needed to be tightened onto the fuel bowl a little more, but the connection between the adapter and the flare nut was so tight that any attempt to tighten the adapter would twist the entire fuel line (which would twist back as soon as I removed the wrench).

So I disassembled the adapter and flare nut, put teflon tape on both sets of threads, tightened the adapter to the carb, then the flare nut to the adapter.

We'll see how she does next time I take her out.

--Chris N.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2017 at 12:21pm
Originally posted by cnelson0641 cnelson0641 wrote:

Hey guys

I'm having some fuel leakage where the rigid metal fuel line (connecting the fuel pump to the carb) is leaking carb-side. Before I mention where it's leaking,
--Chris N.


Ha Ha. You already did    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnelson0641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2017 at 11:11am
Ken - you're a life save with those pictures.

I'm going to use this opportunity to outfit myself with proper wrenches, and to get a little more intimate with my baby. I'll inspect the leakage, and in the process check out the rest of that fuel line.

I'll update again Sunday evening and take some pictures while I'm at it.

--Chris N.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spiralhelix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2017 at 2:04pm
I totally concur with all of the above, especially TRB's wrenches. I too had a leak like yours because I couldn't get it tightened properly. Bought a set of Flare Nut Wrenches (i have one for each connection) and took care of the leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2017 at 12:14pm
Every now and then somebody overtightens things and cracks the fuel bowl in the threaded area causing a leak, so that's something to look at too.

TRB's 2 wrenches suggestion helps to prevent this.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2017 at 12:00pm
I like using the nylon gaskets too- Fuel inlet

Float bowel
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