Best way to replace cutlas. |
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Frankenotter
Platinum Member Joined: August-26-2012 Location: Milwaukee Status: Offline Points: 1072 |
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Pete you probably work at a good one. My neighborhood HD is on the fringe of a few different neighborhoods. The isles look like they got hit by a tornado and you're hard pressed to find an "associate" that speaks passable English.
However, you're correct in the assumption that i didn't look very hard. |
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1999 Ski Nautique 196
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Chris, We (HD) carry grade 8 fine thread bolts and nuts. We also have never seize. You must not have looked had enough or not asked an associate! Don't blame HD for you're not getting the hardware from a "good source". |
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Frankenotter
Platinum Member Joined: August-26-2012 Location: Milwaukee Status: Offline Points: 1072 |
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Chris I dropped both shafts off at the machine shop today. I spoke with the guy that took care of my manifolds back from when I bought the boat. He showed me the V-blocks and his setup. He pointed out that both shafts need to be cleaned up before they can be measured due to the corrosion and build up left over from the couplers.
This little project could cost me $200 or $900........so fingers crossed. |
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1999 Ski Nautique 196
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Frankenotter
Platinum Member Joined: August-26-2012 Location: Milwaukee Status: Offline Points: 1072 |
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Duane I will absolutely look into getting the shaft converted into a taper if it's still good. First I have to find out if it's still usable.
I got the shaft removed today. I went with Joel's method of using a small impact drill to carry the load. I can't even imagine doing that job without it. Even with power tools it took me 3 hours (with a lot of that removing striped bolts). *******word of advice to anyone thinking of attempting this. Get good bolts and nuts to create the press. I used regular zinc hardware from Home Depot because it was what was available to me with short notice. If I had to do it again I would go get much more sturdy hardware from a proper source and not worry about stripping and cutting bolts. Interesting side note, when the shaft came out of the 176 it measured 43 inches. When I put it side-by-side with the shaft from the Promo, it was considerably shorter. The Promo measured 50 inches. |
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1999 Ski Nautique 196
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NCH20SKIER
Grand Poobah Joined: December-16-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2207 |
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The real answer to the question of this topic is..................
Host a Mini, have all the parts and cold beer on hand and watch those with experience jump in to show you. It is a special kind of pay it forward with this bunch |
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'05 206 Limited
'88 BFN |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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When they measure runout, I would have them use v blocks at coupler end & also at strut area. (as opposed to end centers). That way they are duplicating the boat geometry.
Several members have had success straightening a shaft. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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.003 would certainly be within tolerance. Have them "chart" where they are out and how much. That will give you a good idea of whether to use them or not. Why not purchase a tapered coupling and have them machine the shaft for it?? Then you will have a double taper shaft which is much easier to service now and in the future. They will need a reference dimension to work to. Meaning end of shaft at the prop end to the face of the press on coupling. That way the new coupling will measure the same as the old when assembled. Or go pay a ton of $$ for a new ARE shaft and have basically the same thing. Your choice of course. Other opinions will surely differ. Duane |
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7952 |
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If you have a shaft that is out, say .0045" and you straighten it back to say .0015", is there any negatives such as weakening, assuming heat was not used in the process?
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Chris,
The runout at any point in the shaft should not exceed the .003". They should also check aft of the strut on the prop taper since this is a spot that is a frequent bend. The shaft is supported forward at the trans end and aft were the strut normally is and then they indicate the prop taper. Yes, Duane confused things talking about alignment with the .003 between the coupling faces when we've been talking shaft straightness! |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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Believe that is correct... .003" max for both shaft runout and coupler face alignment. Pete will confirm.
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Frankenotter
Platinum Member Joined: August-26-2012 Location: Milwaukee Status: Offline Points: 1072 |
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So when I drop these shafts off at the machine shop today, what is the max runout that I'm having them look for along the length of the shaft. I know I've seen the .003 number in reference to the coupler, but I've also seen it in posts instructing people to check forward/aft of the strut with an indicator...... looking for .003" or less.
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1999 Ski Nautique 196
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Pete, The .003 figure that I was referring to was the feeler gage used to set the alignment to. And yes, the coupling assembled should be near perfect before attempting to align the shaft to the trans. The taper per inch is the same on both ends of mine, just shorter not steeper. Terminology here is misleading. 1" in 16" taper is S.A.E. Specification J755 spec. Anyway, whoever machines the shaft should fit it to the supplied coupling. Duane |
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Duane, The .003" is the TIR on the shaft! When facing the coupling face, I sure hope whomever is truing it up to it's bore can et it closer than the .003! I'd like to add that the ARE taper at the trans is very short (steep) since many of out boats do not have the room for a regular taper between the trans and stuffing gland.. |
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Not to confuse things, but the .003 figure is on the FACE of the coupler not on the shaft. That being said, the shaft should be as straight as possible, especially in the last 12" or so. The site sponsors would be a source.. Also check "DeepBlueYachtSupply.Com" Can't locate the receipt for my tapered coupling but I paid about $65 for it, not sure where I bought it. Have fun sawing it out |
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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Frankenotter
Platinum Member Joined: August-26-2012 Location: Milwaukee Status: Offline Points: 1072 |
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Pete I made a post a while ago about getting a dial indicator on the 176 shaft. I fillowed the procedure and checked the recommended spots. the problem was there was too much play in the cutlass to get good results. I was getting north of .1" which didn't seem possible. I know I need a new cutlass either way so I'm going to take the shaft to a local machine shop to have them test the runout on both the promo and 176 shaft. I found the posts with the coupler removal using a socket and bolts. Does anyone know what size (width) bolts will fit in the coupler? If the shaft is within tolerance..............( .003?????) then I will just replace the cutlass and try the heat method with the coupler. If I cant save the shaft, I will order a new A.R.E. and be done with it. I checked the alignment when I bought the boat 4-5 years ago What place has the best deals on cutlass bearings? 1" od |
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1999 Ski Nautique 196
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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I think the OP has left the building . . .
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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SWANY
Senior Member Joined: August-12-2014 Location: batavia Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Good catch Pete, I should note I mocked it up first with shims and found the happy spot in the log before I buttered it with 4200. That would be the key.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Joel, FYI and to others, I'd like to mention that putting the strut back to were it was isn't always the best idea. It could have been bent at one time plus, it may not have been installed correctly at the factory! Always check it by using the shaft through the center of the log and making sure the shaft is happy (turns freely) in the struts position. |
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Any competent machine shop can make your single taper shaft into a double taper. I think I paid $65.00 for my tapered coupling. If your shaft is good or can be straightened to within tolerance then that seems like a viable solution. Turning the taper and threading the end is not too big of a chore if you have the equipment. Good luck which ever way you go. Duane
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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SWANY
Senior Member Joined: August-12-2014 Location: batavia Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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I actually like the way Jody's described. I ended up needing to pull the strut anyways for an alignment. Could have loosen the bolts and shimmed put I need to re-bed the 4200. I made marks where the strut was on the hull before I loosened it, put it right back where it was.
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M3Fan
Grand Poobah Joined: October-22-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3185 |
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A little walk down memory lane on this topic : Shaft coupling removal with an impact wrench.
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2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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Ah so there is a name for that tool? Ha.
I've used one of those before... tweaking a strut that is snugged down but sealant is still uncured can be done with a BFH as well. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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No not the Meloon version but the commercially available version is called a 36" pipe wrench with the accessory cheater pipe extension handle. Both work very well for the advanced back yard hack that wants to adjust a strut position and or and twist or bend. |
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Fl Inboards
Grand Poobah Joined: January-20-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2066 |
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Oh no! Chicken little say's the sky is falling the sky is falling!
Alternative process is always hard for the archaic mind to comprehend! Have done a number of struts in the manor described above in most all brands of inboard boat and never had any issues realigning. The Correct Craft Nautique 176 actually has a pretty precise mounting platform for it's strut assembly. There are many way's to accomplish the same outcome and have done the strut bushing/cutlass refit both way's in many different boats and will in the future assess direction of the that job depending on the boat. However in the case of that generation Correct Craft I will continue to remove strut and proceed with what I described above and would recommend it to the DYI hobbyist as an alternative to the potential can of worms that is otherwise discussed. Do any of you own a Meloon Crafted Strut Tweeker??? |
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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.
1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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Joel, I haven't done a 2001 but the '09 and '72 I did in the last few years didn't require rudder removal to get the shaft past. This may vary by model/year... definitely repack the rudder if it's out!
Pete, the ones I've done had more than *just enough* slop to create massive misalignment if you weren't careful. Test fitting, and then double checking alignment to the log after applying sealant and snugging the bolts (and adjusting as necessary) is required... and of course aligning the engine afterwards. Not exactly rocket surgery but a little more involved than leaving the strut on the boat (and more work than people may realize). |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Tim, I agree. There's just enough slop in the 4 hull holes and strut base to kick it out of alignment when you tighten it up. Then at the very minimum you need to unbolt the shaft coupling at the trans and make sure the shaft is happy at the position of the strut. If not, then you need to go mess with the strut again or leave it as is and blow the new cutlass bearing in a relatively short time!! , |
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Fl Inboards
Grand Poobah Joined: January-20-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2066 |
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Actually when I replace the cutless in a strut like the one on a 176 I leave the engine in the boat. pop the prop off, remove the four 3/8" fastener's on the strut. pry the strut loose and slide it off the shaft. remove the two hex head set screws in the strut. set it up in my press and press out old cutless unit. clean and press in new unit. Clean old sealant from bottom of strut insert, Apply new sealant on strut base and bolts slide it back up on the shaft and reinstall fasteners. Check engine alignment put the boat back together and go skiing!!!
Takes about an hour and half for that install.. |
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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.
1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Chris,
Dial indicate the shaft both in the middle and especially at the end of the prop taper. If it's bent as you suspect, cut it out and go with the ARE. If not, then as mentioned you have the choices of ether pulling the engine, pulling the trans flange or just cut it anyway and go ARE.. No, there isn't enough room to get a puller on the flange and the reason the spacer and bolt trick is used. Even if there was room for the puller say if the engine or the shaft was out of the boat it's not the best idea. With the arms of the puller being on the outside diameter of the flange, there's a strong chance of bending/warping the flange. With the bolt trick, there's less of a chance since the bolt holes are closer to the center of the flange. Yes, it's an interference fit and they can be a real problem getting them off. Then, there's the issue of getting it back on with the heat shrink process! BTW, when was the last time the alignment was checked on the 176? |
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SWANY
Senior Member Joined: August-12-2014 Location: batavia Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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If my memory serves me right I had to pull the rudder to get the old shaft out and new one in. I only cut it once by the log. That SS sucked cutting. I'm sure many would have frowned upon it, but I actually used a cutting wheel, but I was extremely careful. My theory is your ordering and paying for shipping on packing for the shaft nut why not do the rudder nut as well if the rudder is pulled. I did my shaft log also. Buck Algonquin. My boat is 10years older than Chris's though. If I remember right he has and puts on alot of hours a year.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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You're still losing me Joel... why repack the rudder when the driveshaft is out? Other than maybe having the floor panel off, what work are you saving by doing them both at once? Unless the rudder is leaking or maybe if it's loooong overdue, why not leave it be? |
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