1972 SN Promo Project

That carter afb is original and appropriate. I'd soak it a bit to see if it comes back. Otherwise note the model number and start searching for another. Modern edelbrocks still use the AFB castings, a 600cfm would likely drop right in place if the budget allows. Alt looks like a newer replacement.

Pushrods, not lifters (those ride right on the cam. A little corrosion on these doesn't mean much. You'll need to spin the engine over twice to see all of the valves move once (it's a 4-stroke engine after all). The lifters are hydraulic and may have bled down from sitting. Priming the oil system would allow you to better assess. I still don't see any imminent signs of needing an engine rebuild.

I've seen several engines from that era with the corrugated radiator hose on the front. Not sure if original but wouldn't surprise me. It probably handled tight bends better than the hardwall stuff from 40+ years ago.

Trans likely has oil in it (as opposed to dirty ATF). Normal, and you can convert over to ATF when you're ready.

Tap that bolt holding the pylon in the cup glassed to the hull (the hole in the pylon pin is not threaded). Doesn't look like the flange at the floor will hold you up, lol. Then the only thing holding the pylon in the boat is corrosion between the pin and cup. Soak with penetrating oil then use a large breaker through the ring/finger to twist free if necessary.

I see several pieces of '73 hardware, ring/finger style and rear rope clearance bar are 2 obvious ones.

Might want to check the videos. Might be just me though.

One word:

Wet Lyfe

63 Skier wrote: I think the swim platform should match the tower. Black anodized tower, go with black fiberglass platform. Chrome tower, go with teak platform. Also keep in mind teak is less likely to scuff up the tube.

I was thinking that I would try to find either an orange tower or one that I could Piant orange. The platform will go based on what size orange underwater transom lights come in. Maybe I could just fiberglass over an old teak platform. I just need to make sure I save money in the budget for the subwoofers and surround sound.

Hollywood wrote: Which platform makes a better tree bumper, fiberglass or teak?

Reading between the lines, looks like we need to find a set of extended towing mirrors for a Cadillac to put in Hollywood's stocking this year.

I heard fiberglass works pretty well....

63 Skier wrote: I think the swim platform should match the tower. Black anodized tower, go with black fiberglass platform. Chrome tower, go with teak platform. Also keep in mind teak is less likely to scuff up the tube.

Bwahahaha

phatsat67 wrote: FamilyManCCF wrote: Cool Project and cool thread! I really like the videos. Boat looks pretty complete. The platform does look like it is off a MasterCraft. Like the others suggested, I would remove it. If you want to restore it to period correct I wouldn't put one back on but if you are going to use the boat as a ski tug, I would look for teak platform. Very excited to see updates! Good luck! Just hang a rope ladder off the back. It will look all tree houseish and no holes in the boat!

Zach,
+1!!! I'm with you keeping it original! Swim platform?

Cool Project and cool thread! I really like the videos. Boat looks pretty complete. The platform does look like it is off a MasterCraft. Like the others suggested, I would remove it. If you want to restore it to period correct I wouldn't put one back on but if you are going to use the boat as a ski tug, I would look for teak platform. Very excited to see updates! Good luck!

Frankenotter wrote: 1. Remove starter and see if noise persists. 2. Varify the trans is in neutral!.

Chris,
If you are verifying the trans is in neutral to find that noise, the shift lever position doesn't matter. Without the engine running, there isn't any hydraulic pressure developed by the trans pump to engage ether the forward or reverse clutch packs.

I'll get to the boat in Friday and try to accomplish the following:

1. Remove starter and see if noise persists.
2. Varify the trans is in neutral!
3. Disconnect the alternator and water pump.
4. Oil change............I'm assuming this is a flat tappet engine and VR1 is recommended?
5. If the priming tool arrives, prime oil system and spin engine.

Hollywood wrote: So you have one to sell?

I'll totally buy it

I agree with Tim 100%. Ditch the platform!

Why rebuild it if it'll run with some TLC? Get it spinning and do a compression test.

Every promo (including ours) that I've seen in person has a platform that someone added after the fact. Never seen one with evidence of having had a ladder. I hate it. Removing the platform is a PITA but I'd consider it nonetheless. I would never add one.

After reading the posts about priming the engine oil it started getting me thinking about the future of the engine. I'm totally willing to do it and prime the oil. however, given the general condition of the engine and the fact that it's missing two freeze plugs, is it worth doing this before I pull the engine apart for inspection?

I'm not opposed to doing the work, but do you think A compression test is worth it even if the engine has to get torn apart for inspection? I'm not being a smart a$$ here, I'm just asking lol.

Zach, I ordered the part that you suggested just because it seems like a good idea to have regardless.