Stuffing Box ID and Adjustment

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   You could use a parting wheel to slice thru the safety collar in 2 places.  You will probably gouge the shaft a little.

You may not want to hear this, but cutting the shaft thru & getting a new ARE shaft would be the easiest route (but most expensive).

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SNobsessed Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102	Post Options Post Reply Quote SNobsessed Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:29pm
	You could use a parting wheel to slice thru the safety collar in 2 places. You will probably gouge the shaft a little. You may not want to hear this, but cutting the shaft thru & getting a new ARE shaft would be the easiest route (but most expensive).
	“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin

Duane in Indy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578	Post Options Post Reply Quote Duane in Indy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 10:56pm
	Even if you get the two broken screws out I doubt you will be able to pull the collar off the shaft. Takes a lot of effort and a pulling device to free it. They are shrunk on with heat and a lot of interference fit. No the shaft won't go forward without pulling the engine/trans assy.
	Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified)

Poorhouse Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: November-11-2013 Location: Whitefish, MT Status: Offline Points: 187	Post Options Post Reply Quote Poorhouse Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 10:24pm
	Took a look after work and noted a couple issues. There is a flap loose in the stuffing box seal. That warrants taking things apart to either replace the seal or the stuffing box with a traditional style. One hurdle to that. The heads for both lock bolts on the safety collar are broken off. I attempted to drill a pilot hole in the bolt shaft to use the EZ out. That didn't work, the drill bit didn't get purchase. I was tempted to put it off but I don't want to hurt the shaft. I have 2 ideas at this point. One is to use a cut off wheel to cut a notch into the shaft of each bolt and try to back them out with a screw driver. If that doesn't work I have a better start to drill a pilot hole for the EZ out. The second idea is a variation of the first. I'm wondering if I pull the prop can I pull the shaft out through the engine compartment. I'm guessing the strut won't allow enough angle to clear the transmission. I'm open to ideas on this one.
	Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong.

Poorhouse Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: November-11-2013 Location: Whitefish, MT Status: Offline Points: 187	Post Options Post Reply Quote Poorhouse Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 6:16pm
	I love this place! Never considered the PVC elbow. Will get brass on order and double check for anything else. So much to learn as a new boater. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll slip off the hose off the log and slide the assembly up tonight and report back.
	Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong.

8122pbrainard Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040	Post Options Post Reply Quote 8122pbrainard Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 6:05pm
	Jake, If the grease doesn't slow down the drip for awhile, I would suggest getting a complete traditional gland. With the Glenwood design relying on grease for lubrication and easily washed away with water, I can't see where the seal would last very long. The retrofit dripless seals that are available, use a mechanical spring loaded seal the same design used on pump shafts and they have a continuous water supply. Big difference from the Glenwood! The Glenwood seal is also riding on the prop shaft surface. Bottom line is I don't feel it's a good design. I also notice the PVC elbow on your thru hull. Get a brass one on there before the PCV gets broken. It's below the water line!!!
	54 Atom 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete <

lcgordon Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Gold Member Joined: June-24-2014 Location: Denver Status: Offline Points: 500	Post Options Post Reply Quote lcgordon Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:39pm
	Personally I would atleast loosen the clamp on the hose that connects the hose to the log. Then slide the stuffing box and hose up the shaft and look if the shaft is rubbing bad on the log. You dont want to have to replace the log when the shaft wears through it is not fun.

Poorhouse Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: November-11-2013 Location: Whitefish, MT Status: Offline Points: 187	Post Options Post Reply Quote Poorhouse Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:27pm
	I see what you mean about the kink. I think it is exaggerated in the photo but worth investigating. I have never checked the alignment. Quickly glancing at the strut I didn't see any issues. No vibrations when running. Boat is new to me as of this summer. Maybe I'll grease it for now and order a new seal. Then take it apart and investigate further.
	Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong.

8122pbrainard Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040	Post Options Post Reply Quote 8122pbrainard Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:06pm
	Jake, Your link came up bad so here's a good one. It doesn't look like it's been greased in awhile? Pump some marine grease in it and see how long it lasts. It may not last that long since I feel the seal is bad from an alignment problem. Looking at the kink in the hose between the log and the "stuffing box", it's not good!! I'd say there's even a good chance that the shaft is rubbing on the log ID. When was the last time you checked the alignment? How's the strut for straightness?
	54 Atom 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete <

Poorhouse Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: November-11-2013 Location: Whitefish, MT Status: Offline Points: 187	Post Options Post Reply Quote Poorhouse Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 4:58pm
	Appears it might be this type from Glenwood Marine. http://www.glenwoodmarine.com/Catalog/SHAFT%20LOG.pdf
	Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong.

Poorhouse Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: November-11-2013 Location: Whitefish, MT Status: Offline Points: 187	Post Options Post Reply Quote Poorhouse Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: July-26-2016 at 4:27pm
	My stuffing box is leaking a bit. I'm getting a drip every couple seconds when stopped. I've read how to tighten and repack them. Seems straight forward. My issue is that the stuffing box in our boat does not look like anything I've found pictures of. I'm not seeing the adjustment nuts anywhere. Hoping someone here is familiar with what this is and how to adjust it.
	Sold - 1986 Supra Sunsport Skier Current - 1996 - MC Prostar 205 I keep doing this wrong.

Stuffing Box ID and Adjustment

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