Floor maintenance time

1993R wrote: You have to get this done before I visit my relatives again in Irvine. You have had a good summer there so I know you are itching to get the boat back in action Seriously keep pressing on. Cheers Larry

I'm only about 3 miles away from Irvine...…… Bring your tools as i'd imagine this will still be a work in progress when you visit lol

After 3 YEARS sitting in the garage im finally getting somewhere 👍👍

Graeme
Yes it can be done on a hand router using the old as jigs… if you get yourself a half decent jigsaw and good blades and finish to shape with a hand belt sander 40 or 60 grit your find the nose wheel on the sander will sand the big rads your soon get the feel of it…do a few practice bits on off cuts, this may be better for you if have low woodworking skills.

Good luck with the build Roger.

I bet this has been on the back of your mind for a while. Good luck getting her done.

Getting somewhere now !!

Still to level the boat up and start cutting, but that's all the cables out the way now!!


]

Doing it in your garage Graeme? Nice winter project!!

Hollywood wrote: yuck

Yeh I'm really not looking forward to it

Finally got the engine out today !!!Been putting it off and off and off. But got it lifted out in 5 mins with a forklift.

Now the real work starts!!!

I think its the angle of the picture making it look light. I was thinking of putting another cross beam on top of that one to double up for more strength.

Thanks.
I'll get some eyebolts sorted out this week and get it lifted out.

Eventually got a frame built to remove the engine!!

Are there designated lifting points or can I just sling right round the engine?

a cherry picker works good for removing the engine... check craigslist and find one for a hundred bucks or so.   you'll need to keep it around to put the engine back in, so find one that is "folding".   the legs come off of these versions and store in the base of the hoist.   You'll need to take the tire off of the trailer to get the engine over the gunnel, so don't forget that part before you start lifting

edit:   I didn't check your location first...   hopefully Scottland has a craigslist of sorts

gmars70970 wrote: UK1979 Your a star mate! Another question........ I can get my hands on Monothane SA90A Resin. I was thinking of making the extra floor supports i'll need from this. Anybody any experience of using this instead of wood?

A few ideas on stringer material in the UK.

Yes you can go with Douglas fir up in Scotland should be some around home grown... no need to be all planed up straight off the saw is good will give a better key when bonding.

Here in the UK we have Accoya treated wood ( it’s a type of pickling of wood ) that can take glue/epoxies to bond, has a 50 + year warranty against rotting but it’s not cheap soft wood is around the cost of oak.

We also have lots of Jarrah laying around which we plundered from OZ back in the early 20th century most was used as rail way sleepers and come in at 10ft long which is a bit short but you can find longer ones used at points...
The cool thing about this wood is its ability not to rot as the tree sap/wood has a mild antiseptic that rot hates, the down side is its very dense so hard to cut so you would need to have someone with a band resaw to size, should get 2 stringers out of one sleeper @ 11’x6 inches 10ft long ones go for around £25.00 the outside may look bad but its only the frost over many years inside the wood is good.

Composite can be made here too, last I checked Coosa is not here in the UK, but high density foam sheets are,..rule of thumb if an engine bed is on the stringers you need 30 Ib + for core foam do it in two layers so you can run a fibre glass roving /or biaxial cloth down the middle and stagger the foam joints side to side as foam come in around 8x4ft sheets.

I would research the fibreglass system you have at work... I think your Idea of Cloth/biaxial and spray would be just fine you just need to know what you can use with the work system polyester, vinyl , epoxies I’m all for using what’s to hand with a few tweaks.

Keep us posted Roger.

8122pbrainard wrote: I don't feel a chop system is the way to go. To get the same strength out of it, I understand you need twice the build thickness compared to fiberglass cloths. It's the way cheap boats are made!!! .

Pete

This must put Correct Craft in the "somewhat cheap" category these days since they use a combination of hand layup and chopper gun construction according to info put out by Correct Craft themselves

KenO

8122pbrainard wrote: Making the molds to cast the Monothane would be more work than replacing the stringers! One thing I found out, is the molds need to be air tight. Next is the strength. Have you looked at any of the statistics? Compare it to Douglas Fir. I don't feel a chop system is the way to go. To get the same strength out of it, I understand you need twice the build thickness compared to fiberglass cloths. It's the way cheap boats are made!!! Graeme, "bite the bullet" and do a traditional job on the stringers.

This is exactly the sort of advice I'm looking for!
I'm totally new to working with fibreglass and didn't realise the chop system was different to the traditional method. Since I'm as far into the project I don't want to cut corners for a sub standard refurb.

All advice is appreciated