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PVC y pipe gt40 muffler delete

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DayTony View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2015 at 2:18am
I have a y pipe that might work for you, what exactly are you looking for?
I have this pipe which you could probably modify.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-marine-muffler-XT-TPD-3504-Centek-Industries-1200442-surge-tube-3-/121693132400?hash=item1c5579d670&vxp=mtr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2015 at 1:33am
Have you thought about gutting the muffler?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NAUTIQUEjunky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2015 at 1:06am
Well guys this got much discussion as I hoped it would.. I built the y-pipe to see if it would work.. which it did.. will it work without failure?? Probably not! So I've come to the conclusion the added sound and unknowns is just not worth it using this method.. And the PVC has kinda a weird exhaust note .. So the Hull hugger muffler goes back on until I decide to purchase a Centek y-pipe in the future.."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marlo14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 9:52pm
Great idea if you are only looking for a test method. NOT a permanent solution. The pvc will fail and boat will sink. The resins used on the exhaust components are different, if you try to patch one of those using standard boat resin, it will not hold together over time. I agree with the idea of if you like how it sounds, spend the money and get the proper setup to avoid a catastrophe. My $.02
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 8:29pm
I respectfully withdraw my earlier suggestion. Got curious & looked this up on US composite site:

9. Do you sell high-temperature epoxy?

No. Our marine and commercial use epoxy systems can only withstand temperatures from 150 to 195 degrees. Most high-temperature epoxies on the market will require autoclave or oven cure cycles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 7:57pm
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

How much more resistant to heat are the fiberglass/epoxy components such as the hull hugger muffler, Invertaflo muffler, or in the case of the hull hugger, the fiberglass sections that go from the riser to the muffler? I've already had to replace one of those due to overtightening and probably heat from the PO years ago.

Joel,
You can NOT compare a thermoset to a thermoplastic. They are two completely different types of non metalics. Go back to your BMW!! It was not heat that busted up your hull hugger. Vibration and a cheap build/poor engineering if you ask me.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 7:33pm
uhm i was being sarcastic   ha ha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 6:57pm
STFU = Shut The Freak Up. I have seem the word Freak replaced with a more colorful alternative.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 6:39pm
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

cpvc cement is for cpvc.. please dont give bad advice. solid core pvc is generally rated for 180 deg but i would never use is (lowes home depot sells foam core) foam core is not for exhaust either i guess you could try sch 80 but it is only really used for 95 + venting exhaust on newer high eff heating /Hw systems .. i completely agree with above posts   dont trust the pipe dont trust the joints and def dont trust the glue..


Bad advice? Jesus H Christ what the hell is wrong with you? You allergic to sarcasm or so wrapped up in plumber tech you cant see over the sprinkler heads? STFU

what does stfu stand for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 12:22pm
How much more resistant to heat are the fiberglass/epoxy components such as the hull hugger muffler, Invertaflo muffler, or in the case of the hull hugger, the fiberglass sections that go from the riser to the muffler? I've already had to replace one of those due to overtightening and probably heat from the PO years ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 11:38am
His pipes are 3.5 in and 4 out. He needs a [4"] plug as Tony mentioned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 11:31am
Was just something I read once, but it seems plausible in theory. A tennis ball diameter is 2.7 inches, not sure what exhaust tip inside diameter is exactly, maybe wrap in a rag first. Anything would be worth a try to not go down without a fight.

Mine has a transom ladder and no platform so they'd be easy to get to, not sure I'd wanna try it with a platform boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 11:31am
I made a cover frame out of PVC pipe for my Jet Jon. Not only did the material distort badly in summer sun, some of the properly primed & glued joints let go.

Don't know if it is economical, but you could wrap the PVC in epoxy resin-ed glass, then it would be safe. Put in hose clamp bumps while you are at it.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scootdogydog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 11:13am
this isn't the place I'd try to save a buck -- and usually when I can save a buck, I would. If you're purely removing the muffler, you'd need what, 3' per side of 3" copper? ~$200 total? so why try to save $150 on something below the waterline. my $.02
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 10:58am
That won't keep the boat from sinking
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 10:35am
Keep 2 tennis balls in the boat,. In the event of an emergency they can be stuffed into the exhaust ends.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 10:24am
meh. the late eighties budget centurians came with PVC pipes from the factory and are still going.after 25+ years. They are the dull ones with the fiberglass engine cover with a tiny apolstered pad on top of it.

Agreed, offshore, not even a consideration. I just don't buy most the doom and gloom.

They sound like blue man group on meth, don't like the sound one bit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 10:06am
Originally posted by NAUTIQUEjunky NAUTIQUEjunky wrote:

By the way this is what the inside of a exhaust hose looks like after someone overheats the *************** out of there motor   
[/IMG]


EXACTLY!!!!! And this is designed to withstand that heat for short periods of time. Wait till you overheat the s**t out of that PVC. You won't have delaminated hose that simply needs replacing. You'll have a three inch hole directly thru the hull after the PVC has completely melted away.
This is no different than somebody putting an automotive rated carb, dizzy, alternator, starter or fuel pump on their boat. Sure, it'll probably work fine maybe for as long as you own the boat, but all it takes is that "one time" when it goes boom and your boat is up in flames or sunk and people can potentially die all in the name of saving money.

By all means let us know how that works out for you when that "one time" does happen.

When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2015 at 3:44am
I'm no plumber but i have built some pretty good potato cannons. and some not so good.
But knowing what the pvc looks like after a good range day I would have to say i wouldn't trust any bit of it below the water line on my boats. especially with the exhaust gasses which are extremely corrosive. i wonder what it would do to the pvc.

also do you have any idea how quickly you will be swimming with the fishes with a 3" hole under the waterline of a boat that small? I just finished safety drill training at my local coast guard base which covered this specifically. And just to give a little perspective, an open exhaust pipe below water line left unnoticed can leak roughly 150-200 Gallons per MINUTE, becoming exponentially more as the hole gets deeper in the water.
So play on the safe side and if you are going to be a test hamster than bring a hammer and some exhaust size wooden plugs if you don't already have some in your ditch bag. Because time to get towed in may be too long.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 11:56pm
Down in my part of Florida Pete the inspector wants to see primer slopped all over,don't see it,it don't pass
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NAUTIQUEjunky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 11:47pm
Lmao! You got me on that one Pete!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 11:40pm
Originally posted by NAUTIQUEjunky NAUTIQUEjunky wrote:


And you won't see the primer I used past the fittings Pete because I measured how far to apply it on the pipe/fitting so it wouldn't show.. my OCD kicked in [

Your OCD is flawed. You still have the alignment marks on at the joints!

Peter,
I'm not aware of any ruling about having to use the purple primer in this area but, it sure is a good one. The other big problem with primer is not using it at all (typ. on DWV with plumbers cutting corners) or letting it dry before applying the solvent cement. I'm proud to say that after running close to 2000 feet of sch 80 10" and down to 3" and then hydro'd to 250 psi we didn't have one joint push apart. BTW, we have been back up and running for over 6 weeks now after the repair.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NAUTIQUEjunky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 11:23pm
[/IMG]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a0128 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 10:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 9:54pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

cpvc cement is for cpvc.. please dont give bad advice. solid core pvc is generally rated for 180 deg but i would never use is (lowes home depot sells foam core) foam core is not for exhaust either i guess you could try sch 80 but it is only really used for 95 + venting exhaust on newer high eff heating /Hw systems .. i completely agree with above posts   dont trust the pipe dont trust the joints and def dont trust the glue..


Bad advice? Jesus H Christ what the hell is wrong with you? You allergic to sarcasm or so wrapped up in plumber tech you cant see over the sprinkler heads? STFU
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 9:01pm
Pete we have a new code here for gas exhaust venting we have to use the purple primer   in your neck of the woods too?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NAUTIQUEjunky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 8:59pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by NAUTIQUEjunky NAUTIQUEjunky wrote:

I did use hight quality Oatly pipe cement for the fittings.. .

What about the primer? I don't see any evidence of it in the pictures!

And you won't see the primer I used past the fittings Pete because I measured how far to apply it on the pipe/fitting so it wouldn't show.. my OCD kicked in
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 8:55pm
Originally posted by NAUTIQUEjunky NAUTIQUEjunky wrote:

I did use hight quality Oatly pipe cement for the fittings.. .

What about the primer? I don't see any evidence of it in the pictures!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NAUTIQUEjunky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 8:42pm
By the way this is what the inside of a exhaust hose looks like after someone overheats the *************** out of there motor   
[/IMG]
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1986 Ski Nautique 2001
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2015 at 8:42pm
good idea i would never listen to a plumbers advice either
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