Tired Interceptor - Block Cracks Everywhere!

Glassdog, no problems. We do debate on occasion. I'm surprised those engines aren't easier to find as Ford made so many of them. I really like ours, but if you told me 20 years ago that I would someday own a Correct Craft with an old Falcon 6, I'd have told you that you were crazy.

8122pbrainard wrote: Christopher, Steve (wood) had some cooling issues with his 6 and if I remember correctly it came down to a wrong T stat. I'm sure he'll be by and correct me if I'm wrong.

Pete,
now your asking me to go back a "while". I think it was around 6 years ago I was replacing the head, so Green Lake was probably 7 years ago.

I did replace the t.stat with a 160 automotive one at GL that year. From what I remember, I had already replaced the water pump impeller, so the stat was next in line to try. That was not the problem either.

I ended up replacing the entire pump with another one from a donor motor I had around. I think the cover plate on the original pump had minor grooves in it, and I'm guessing it wouldnt prime. I do remember if we could get it out and on plane, it would work.

I since then replaced the stat with a marine 140.

mannnn, I need to get that old girl out of storage this summer. She hasnt been wet since I got the 73.   
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Please forgive guys, the "fun debate" comment wasn't meant to disrespect anyone's experiences, insights or professional perspective. I probably should have iterated that the discussion has been very very interesting.

I'm very appreciative of everyone taking their time to provide insights, experiences and knowledge. I view all discussions as useful and I can definitely say that all of your input and knowledge of vintage Correct Crafts is helping me to make better decisions, shorten my restoration curve and provide me very valuable knowledge of the the purpose of design.

So, please accept any apologies if necessary your perspectives have been invaluable!!!.

Glassdog wrote: Sorry guys but fun debating.

No debate. Just telling you what I know from owning the same engine as you. That tube barely drips at idle. Maybe Steve 62Wood will chime in as he's had his engine all apart. Other than general maintenance and replacing all the hoses, we haven't needed to do much to ours.

Riley wrote: Pete, there's not enough water that comes out of that tube to cool anything. I've had it off with the engine running.

How much water does come out?

Pete, there's not enough water that comes out of that tube to cool anything. I've had it off with the engine running.

Chris,
Bruce's idea of the in and out for the engine cooling being the same isn't the case. He just missed the small out at the flywheel end of the block.

I including many here run the VR-1 in their engines. I run 20-50 in all of mine.

Regarding the importance of running an oil with the ZDDP in flat tappet engines, I too have seen first hand what happens running synthetics. Cams with barely any lobes left and these too were on flat head Hercules (Chris) engines. Yup, the owners thought they were doing the correct thing to put the Mobile 1 in their engines!!

Hey Pete just saw your latest after I posted. I kind of surmised that regarding the 1/4" cooling line and plan on retaining that. My laymans assumptions also were that since the motor is standard rotation and drives off the front of the motor it was a needed feature to also ensure air got out of the head and hot spots were reduced or eliminated.

I don't make it to your neck of the woods, however when I get this project done maybe I can get to a lake near you. Thanks again your help is very generous and much appreciated.

Riley wrote: This is how our 170 is plumbed. I've never quite understood the water route as the inlet into the block is also the outlet.

Bruce,
Take a look at the forward end (flywheel end) of the engine. You see that small water line running to the exhaust manifold? It doesn't take much water to cool the engine. More is actually needed to cool the exhaust manifold.

This is how our 170 is plumbed. I've never quite understood the water route as the inlet into the block is also the outlet.

Thanks Pete for your comments - much appreciated!

Before Pic of my Paragon Model 1xe


And the after pic!


Still awaiting the return of my block from being hot tanked. So in the meantime I got busy getting the drive back into order. Pretty horrid mess inside and I'm very pleased that after alot of cleaning, complete disassembly I have what should be a working drive with little more expense than new seals, paint stripper and a fresh coat of paint.

Fotunately, it didn't look so bad. Some wear on clutch discs however evenly worn and a fair amount of adjustment left. I thought early on that new bearings were going to be on the project list but happily after a good bath in my ultrasonic cleaner they run free and have no debris left within to cause rough spots.

Pete if your following I have a question regarding the exhaust manifolds. Mine was completely trashed when I got the boat and very little left to compare to. Could you or anyone else with the 170 Interceptor describe how the cooling circuit works? I know that sounds stupid, however the set up is a little unorthodox.

My question is this, Am I correct in assuming there is a ventury action set up by the where the cooling water enters and bypasses the thermostat housing and exits out to the riser and through the block simultaneously?

Reason being I jumped off a cliff earlier this summer. I had seen through other sources on the web and in a thread somewhere here regarding a Barr replacement. Well I got a boat shop buddy to look into it and he found online they had a replacement (FC- 1) described as a manifold for a Ford comet engine.

Well no one at Barr knew anything about it even though it was listed in their inventory. So I called them directly and talked to a stock guy and he verified they had one but couldn't confirm fitment as he said "I have been here 20 years and never sold one"

So I was on vacation and on the way back to PA from the beach I stopped at Barr in VA. and got them to physically show me it. So as it sits it's set up for starboard exhaust. I noted in pics that the end and header caps were symmetrical and bolted on and on the phone he couldn't advise if they could be swapped. So when I visited I verified they could be reversed to make it a port side exhaust. I then got my friend to get me it at his cost plus a little beer. I then got from ebay in "new" old stock a 15 degree water cooled riser and the adaptor plate to join everything.

It will look close to original, however im going to have to work on the routing of the cooling circuit and it will press my motor further to a "one" off than I had hoped for. I am planning to and can use the original arrangement of the 1/4" cooling line from the rear of the head to the manifold. Im just trying to get it right so the flow works properly through the manifold and block.

Hopefully I can get the results from it I desire and I will put it up in the forum for everyone to check out. The manifold I got was one of four remaining in existance, once they go no more. So if anyone else is experiencing the same hurdles with an exhaust manifold for one of these beasties it may be of help.

Hi guys! I thought I would post a long overdue update on the progress of my 1963 American skier. So after, my engine probelms became a critical issue I turned my attention to the hull. Ill post some pics when I find what media card they are on. Anyhow, while I was searching for a solution to the engine I elected to step away from it for a while and get into the hull.

So sporadically over the summer I opened up the stringers for inspection, happily they weren't compromised. I did find a crack in the transom noted in earlier posts. I laminated a new transome from plywood and a new bow cross as well. Re-glassed everything with a mountain of 1708 and repaired a bunch of holes on the top side and stress cracks. I covered the whole topside with a vail of 3/4 oz. mat ust to make sure I had stabilized everything and used around 20 some gallons of resin.

So hopefully I'm not premature with my winter's progress. I had found a 170 cu. in. inline 6 (running, not well) that matched all castings and codes and actually came off the line 2 months after my interceptor had been manufactured. I let the engine sit for awhile and finally got the courage to tear into it.

I didn't ask the guy enough questions. Happily when I disassembled it I found that everything was identical, flat tappet solid lifter cam. It had been bored .030 over and was
literally new inside, no gunk. Only problems I noted was (1) slightly bent pushrod and #'s 5 and 6 connecting rod bearings had alot of wear and were begining to score the crank.

So, off it went down the street to a performance engine builder (Kriner's Racing Engines if any of you guys follow short track racing) and they were able to polish my crank and I escaped grinding. I think the guy did a reasonable job trying to rebuild it he just wasn't thorough enough. Oil passages were completely blinded with sludge and the mentioned journals and block. So I think he tried to get it done or whoever hot tanked it (if done) didn't clean the passages out. and when he re assembled it he didn't loosen the rocker arms during disassembly, he just wound up tight on a push rod. My guess is he knew he had a problem and got tired of it and decided to put a 289 in it he had.

After a good cleaning up, I cleaned all passages, checked the deck and cleaned up all mating surfaces and gave the cylinders a good honing. It appeared the rings had barely set. Waiting now on the block to be returned hopefully without any other problems identified. And I can get pics on to everyone and have it built back to a long block witha pretty coat of alpine green on it. I do have several hurdles yet with it which I hope 62 wood or Mr. Brainard could enlighten me on and Ill post those questions over the next day or two I've gotten too long with this post.

Any input or questions from the community would be greatly appreciated!

Christopher,
Great to hear you found a block..
With the layup, if you haven't already,take a look at the FAQ thread in the maintenance section. There's some links to stringer job that reference the layup. However, it sounds like you already have a plan and it sounds good. There really isn't a set layup.

Are we going to see some pictures of the stringer work????

Christopher,

I just about didnt buy my AS because of the 6 banger. I would never give up my 73 SN, but I kind of have a soft spot for the old "bacerds" Ford.    

I lucked out and only had a couple of weak spots in the secondary stringers. They really only hold the floor, so I sistered new along side the old.

I was NEVER planning on "going all the way" with this old girl... but can honestly say I have never been sorry I did.   

Yep,,, sounds familiar. I bought mine "just to use" for the summer... PO had put a "new" floor in. looked like he used ten pcs of scraps. And so began my journey.