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Swedish Ski Nautique 1969

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axelg89 View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:43am
Can anyone tell me if mechanical pressure gauges are the same for air and fluids. Found this in my local hardware store at a good price but it's in the compressed air section... does it matter?
http://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/tryckluft/kompressortillbehor/tryckluftsbehandling/manometer-018028/

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 11:02am
Yes, a 47 year old pump is always suspect. Best check the pressures.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2016 at 5:06am
Well I didn't change the pump which was maybe my mistake then. Insspected it visually and it looked clean from scratches, burs or chips and felt tight in the pump housing.

Is it common that the pump decays?

I'll hook up a pressure gauge and check the pressures!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2016 at 1:36pm
Best to put a pressure gauge in the NPT pipe port and see what it says.

think its NPT 1/4" pipe, if not 1/8" pipe, have both. There is a port each for pump, fwd and rev, and they are not all the same size.

I leave a gauge on mine all the time.

If the pressure is high, could be an indicator of restricted flow. Low, could be bad pump. The best picture would be to sample all conditions.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2016 at 1:17pm
Axel,
You didn't mention if you checked out the pump. If worn and out of spec, it won't develop the needed pressure to apply pressure to the clutch pack and keeping them from slipping. Unfortunately, pump specs/clearances aren't published. I don't feel it's a cooling problem since the cooler is doing it's job - hot in cold out.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2016 at 11:45am
Hey everyone!

So last season was a bust due to transmission slipping and despite flushing it and changing fluid it wouldn't get better. During the winter I rebuilt the entire transmission changing clutch discs, bearings and gaskets and installet the trans back into the boat.

Test drove the trans this weekend and the problem somehow remained exactly the same which is extreamly strange considering all my work on it.
Symptoms include:
- Transmission slipping when warm
- Oil cooler lines hot on one side but completely cold on the other side. Entire outside of the cooler is sea cool.
- Trans case gets hot quickly.

As it's the only thing I havn't checked I'm starting to think that the trans cooler/lines are blocked/not flowing enough, anyone had that problem? Any other thoughts? Eveything in the tranmission looked good, I cleaned everything etc.

I will take the cooler out and check that it's not blocked and I guess that the next step after is to monitor the transmission oil pressure which I'll try to do next weekend. Does anyone here know what threads/size the main pressure line tap is so I can get the correct adapter/gauge?

Thanks
/ Axel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2015 at 12:14pm
Very cool. Congratulations!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote terminaldegree Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2015 at 7:58pm
Good work, Axel!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2015 at 6:59pm
Originally posted by 74Wind 74Wind wrote:

A Vette...Stars & Stripes on the wall...if it weren't for the license plate it looks like an American garage. .

+1

Nice job on the rebuild.

Nice garage too. Still.....it pains me to see a hitch on a vintage Corvette. Good entry for the "Show Us Your Tow Vehicle" thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2015 at 9:27am
A Vette...Stars & Stripes on the wall...if it weren't for the license plate it looks like an American garage. .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2015 at 2:56am
Super nice all around!

Beware those wrenches on the dash; sore toes, scratched gel coat...    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2015 at 8:01pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

i
Didnt know that cc used glass no core stringers on some older models.   wonder y they started using a core?   My 1967 hatteras had glass stringers, no wood and not core in hull.   built like a tank and thats y she is still riding proud at 48 years old.   

As Gary stated, CC didn't back then. The stringer replacement is discussed in the thread. It's interesting use of pultruded glass structural members.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2015 at 1:06pm
They didn't,that was a job done by a PO. CC did not start to use glass stringers until most 93 models
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2015 at 12:53pm
i replied on this not seeing second page so missed that he had already done it.
Didnt know that cc used glass no core stringers on some older models.   wonder y they started using a core?   My 1967 hatteras had glass stringers, no wood and not core in hull.   built like a tank and thats y she is still riding proud at 48 years old.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrahots Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2015 at 2:52am
Joe is absolutely correct. I have seen several a lot worse than this done in exactly the way he described. Glad to see you are out having fun with It !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2015 at 5:58pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

you will have to get the crank machined and get new bearings for it..   



He didn't have to, and he won't it is perfectly acceptable to use an appropriate stone in that situation to debur and go on with life. It will have no negative effect what so ever on that bearing life.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2015 at 5:20pm
you will have to get the crank machined and get new bearings for it..   

Wow you boat has glass stringer and no core, that makes the job easier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chevy350 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2015 at 4:00pm
Glad to see your having a blast with your boat! I love the Vette also!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2015 at 3:30pm
Hello all,

Sorry for beeing absent for so long. Have had a lot to do and had my hands full getting the boat ready for the summer and as everything has been going smooth I've havn't had any specific questions.

So I followed Joe's advice and put the engine back together being very careful to do everything by the book. I then went on fixing the interor with a new seats, some beer holders, a good stereo and so on.

Last weekend I could take it to the lake and fire it up in water for the very first time. So far everything seems to work perfectly which is great. I even did some wakeboarding behind it without any trouble at all

Finally I've installed a tow hitch to my car so the '69s can travel in style :) . Does anyone know how much a 69' barracuda with a 351 weights?

Now on to a few pics:

Engine back together


Engine back in place with accessories


Put a new gascap on the boat, the small details that matter


In water!


That great feeling






The tow car got hitched!


Hope you're all having a great summer!
Axel






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2015 at 5:16pm
I would carefully stone it to remove anything riding higher than the surface then I would run it and forget about it. Use a couple pieces of hose over. Those rod bolts to prevent doing it again on the other ones. I use relatively long hoses to help guide the rod.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2015 at 2:59pm
This weekend was to be the big engine rebuild weekend as all the bearings and gaskets finally arrived.

Everything began wel untill it all of a sudden went to ***************. No I'm desperate for good advice.

I started by honing out and hot pressure wash the block to perfection and everything looked nice. I then clearancesd all the bearings using plastigauge and got results that I was very happy with. Kept on changing the rod bolts into ARP and filefitting all the rings which also went nicely. Then when putting the first piston into the block I somehow managed to do this:


What do I do now? Running this crank I guess is impossible so:
1. Get the crank machined to undersize and get new bearings
2. Get a used stock crank (if so do I need to rebalance it?)
3. Get a new aftermarket crank (I'm guessing that one would need to be balanced?)

Please let me know which way you think would be cheapest/best. This really wasn't what my student economy or skiing summer needed and I'm so mad at myself right now. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Best Regards
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2015 at 9:24pm
I'll do so

Have now ordered a rebuild kit that I'll be waiting for. Have been trying to read up on the bolts in the engine. I've understood that no bolts in the old 351 are TTY bolts, do you reuse the bolts or buy new (heads, mains, rods)?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2015 at 5:31pm
Looking good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2015 at 3:36pm
Just go with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2015 at 7:13pm
So I worked a bit on the boat today taking the rest of the engine appart and removing the floor of the boat to check the condition of the stringers/foam (I was so nervous about the stringer condition...)

The engine looked good and to my surprize all the bearings were in good shape and ford original and the pistons were std size too. I don't think this engine has seen many hours, at least not since rebuild.


The stringers.... Well someone has absolutely been there before me and removed the old stringers and foam replacing it with much thicker fiber glass beams (1.5cm thick material as seen in the first picture). The job lookes very well done and there is no delamination, cracks or other things. When I stuck the phone into one of the stringers from behind I got a big surprise, in top of each stringer a 1 cm thick steel plate has been put in all the way from the front to the back of the boat. The engine mounts and so on are then tappered to the steel plate.... i hope my pictures below make my description a bit more clear...

Thickness of the "stringers"


Indide the "stringers"



What do you think about this? Any good? Anyone seen anything like it before? The job looks nice and like it was done by someone that had been working on boats before...

We then took the boat out and high pressure steam washed it before taking it back into the garage nice and clean




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2015 at 2:58pm
I have been looking at exhaust manifolds which is a big pain in the a-- as the Swedish market for 351 manifolds is next to none driving prices up. Shipping a pair from the US is also pricey. However I found an acceptable deal on a pair of new HGE-1-81 with HGE0082 risers, anyone hear used them? Is the shorter riser model ok to use on a skiboat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2015 at 3:55pm
Great, looks like we have reached a common answer:barracuda :)

Mojo, I like the platform too.

Anyone have experiace with Sierra manifolds/risers?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2015 at 3:25pm
Yep Cuda for sure...

Boy, I'm glad there is a swim platform on this beauty...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2015 at 2:51pm
Axel,
You have a LH prop confirming the engine rotation.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axelg89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2015 at 2:38pm
wow, I didn't expect this kind of response :)

There is a small raise on the back of the boat where your red stripe is 81nautique:


My garage is located 180 miles from where I am ATM so I have a hard time measuring and taking pictures right away but I believe that:
* The engine cover came of a later SN as it sais so on top of it (why I fought it was a SN)
* The engine is a STD rotation as timing order is 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8 (counting counterclockwise on top of distributor) and the prop look like this:

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