New guy, Newish Boat

Treybizttu wrote: Also finally crawled back under since I didn't Remember seeing a paddle wheel for the updated speedo but sure enough there is one about mid way down the keel dead center. It's behind the plug and the farthest forward water intlet. It's in front of the back water inlet but offset from it somewhat.

would be curious to see a picture, if its offset you shouldn't have an issue with prohibiting water to the intake, but if its on the center of the keel I would assume they had to grind it down to fit the flat housing and that might have left it recessed behind the ridge of the keel. I wonder if that would cause a bubble and make your speedos read funny.

Stuck a battery in it tonight and the starting key pad lit up. Put in my code a few times and was rewarded with a steadyy green light. Bildge light came on when pressed as well. None of the motor wiring is hooked up so I couldn't try the start obviously. The horn worked a couple times but then just clicked. Part of that could be attributed to the battery just being one random one I had from who knows what that had not been moved in the warehouse for a few years. I stuck it on the charger for a few hours but I don't know how good it actually was..

Also finally crawled back under since I didn't Remember seeing a paddle wheel for the updated speedo but sure enough there is one about mid way down the keel dead center. It's behind the plug and the farthest forward water intlet. It's in front of the back water inlet but offset from it somewhat.

Haven't had much time this week to tinker but I should be able to spend a good amount of Sunday messing with it after chasing Bambi with stick and string this weekend.

Wooowooo for little bits of progress and figuring out what everything does on this pile. :)

Indeed, Brian. Pry bar on the flywheel is much preferred. Crank bolt works fine for an engine that isn't locked up.

Dreaming wrote: atf to acetone (50/50) or Marvel mystery oil are both good choices.   when you use the starter the first time, make sure you cover EVERYTHING, as the oil is sprayed out through the spark plug holes. (yes, I know from experience, and had to clean the carpet afterwards) fogging oil is not going to give the penetrating action you need to unseat the stuck rings.

Made that mistake with a jet ski in my garage..... ONCE

I've got some painters plastic and green tape im going to make the interior look like a scene from Dexter before I start in on anything further motor related.

Dreaming wrote:    I had to put some acetone/atf mix in mine, and it freed up after sitting for a couple of days. I had to use a 3' breaker bar on the front pulley nut to make it spin for the first several rounds.

Breaker bar was my next thought... I was curious what would work to pour in the cylinders. I thought about fogging oil.

So with no belts on and no spark plugs in the motor I can't spin it by hand at the crank pulley.

That was about all I did last night as my old lab decided he wanted to lose his dinner on the only carpet we have in the whole house....

jbear wrote: pictures of your 'little helper'...very cool. pictures of the wife buffing the boat after dark......even cooler! I may be in the minority but I have always liked the swoosh graphics. john

Thanks!

The Wife is quickly taking a liking to it and that's just with it taking up space at the house. Once it's a runner she will be on board... The boy was sold from day one.... The wife called me at the office earlier today with him on speaker and he kept telling me, "boat clean please". Made me smile after a craptastic day at the office. He loves the lake and it's hard to peel him off of his seat in our I/O and he loves jet ski rides.

I like the swoosh personally.. I think the year correct "AIR" graphic wasn't all that great but one of my designers has some replacement ideas drawn up. I'll post those once I have a few I like in PDF form

Trey

TRBenj wrote: Not every compound will remove 1000 grit scratches, but some will... It's all about using the right products and pads. I agree with HW, sanding sucks, ha.

I ordered some new 3M stuff and I'm just trying things in small sections at this point so I'll give 1000 and compound a whirl again too.

Hollywood wrote: There are compounds that will remove 1000 grit scratches. I find buffing easier on the arms than sanding. No sense sanding much past 1200. Even 1500 is overkill.

Interesting,

The last boat I did I started with just a compound after 1000 and felt like I could never get it the way I wanted. Following a friend's advise I went all the way up to 3000 grit wet sanding and then just used a finishing compound followed by glaze and wax. It was much easier for me and the end result is still looking great a few seasons and waxes later. But, that's just my (very limited) experience so I could just be making more work for myself.



Did make some progress on other items last night. Sanded the swim platform and started putting a few coats of oil on it.

Hello ..
Congratulation :)
I am new here and very happy to join such a group which is soo fond of boats.

Treybizttu wrote: Part of my business is vinyl so I can whip something up.

Be careful when you do, some people in the past have had problems with the curve of the hull. No part of that boat is flat, just keep in mind.

Treybizttu wrote: There are two "pitots" on the back of the boat.

I'm sure there are, but that doesn't mean they are hooked up to anything. I still have them on mine, I just didn't feel like filling the gel at the time I replaced them. Check the bottom of the hull, you should have a drain plug, a pickup for your water pump, and a seacock for your ballast, all relatively close to each other. If you see a paddle wheel too, that's connected to the speedos. Just check that its not in front of the pickup for the water pump.

Treybizttu wrote: And also a question... So my variable buffer is in vegas right now (long story) but I want to start wet sanding. Is there any harm in wet sanding from 1000/1500 to 3000/5000 grit and leaving the boat outside for a week or two before I get my buffer back and start compounding,glaze, wax?

Gelcoat is extremely hart and it took years for it to oxidize to the point it's at now. A couple of weeks won't hurt it in the least.

Dreaming wrote: I think I would wait until your buffer was close by.   The point of polishing is to remove the oxidation, so if you remove the oxidation and then don't buff/protect the surface, you may cause more sanding for yourself.   that said, I am pretty OCD about shininess on my vehicles, and a week or 2 to oxidize is really probably nothing in the grand scheme of things. wax once you polish so that the fresh finish is not exposed to the elements

I'm pretty OCD myself so i will probably wait. I wish I could pull the stupid thing into the garage but our Monday through Friday house was built in the 80s so even with no swim platform and the tongue detached I'm touching the entry door to the house. Luckily once this thing is done I'll move it to the lakehouse. My barn down there is 35' long.

And also a question... So my variable buffer is in vegas right now (long story) but I want to start wet sanding. Is there any harm in wet sanding from 1000/1500 to 3000/5000 grit and leaving the boat outside for a week or two before I get my buffer back and start compounding,glaze, wax?

Interior cleaned up decent after a lot of scrubbing... (Pictures make it look nicer than it is.. Lots of stains and little cuts).

Another of the interior:


The Mystery Motor: