Boats For Sale:
PROP CAME OFF AND SANK |
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abolton 
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Joined: September-07-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
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 Topic: PROP CAME OFF AND SANKPosted: June-30-2008 at 1:37am |
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Ok this sucks; My #2 son hit reverse going 25mph and the prop spun off the shaft?
I can only wonder what else? The tranny is working; so far, but the prop is gone. I have a 78SN with the 351W 1:1 tranny, we tube and wake board. Need suggestions on what prop to buy, where, or maybe one of you guy's have an one for cheap? |
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ABE
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stang72
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Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 2:14am |
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Paul Waters has a Federal 13X13 in the parts for sale section....that one will do just fine for ya at a good price.....make sure you put the cotter pin behind the nut so ya won't loose another one!
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davidg
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Joined: January-07-2008 Location: NW Chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 2239 |
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 2:15am |
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Sorry to hear of your problem. Never dropped a prop, but, I did drop a rudder off of an '87 Martinique because I forgot to put the safety wire on the bolt that holds the rudder on, and it vibrated out. Not a good day!!!
On your prop, my '76 Southwind has a 13"X13"X 1" diameter shaft. Not sure if your SN would take the same size or not. I could use a spare one myself. The guys at Discount Inboard Marine suggested going with a nylon-lined locking type nut vs. a castle nut. Supposedly much harder to back off in case the clip comes out of the shaft with the castle nut. Thats what I am running right now. No issues yet. You may want to give them a call on the prop they would recommend as well. I would be interested in hearing what they recommend, and the cost. Dave |
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stang72
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 2:34am |
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The 13x13x1 prop is the right prop for a 70's SN.
You can spend a tad over $300.00 plus ship for a new Acme 540 or an OJ...both are great performers! OR...save a few dollars and buy the one Paul has for $150.00. Of course you are needing a new nut...I still like the old castle nuts with a stainless cotter pin...never lost a prop....dinged hell out of a few 
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 7:56am |
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Abe, When you get the new prop, make sure it's installed correctly on the shaft and fully seated on the taper. It's not a bad idea to check the taper to the new prop with machinest blue and then lap if needed. A prop should only come off with a puller. Also do NOT put a stainless nut on the stainless shaft. You want to go with a brass. With the stainless to stainless you take the chance of galling the threads and locking up the nut to the shaft. I had to cut one of mine off last year due to the PO using a stainless. If you need any help with the install procedure, we're here! Also, the other day I was looking for some reference back up for NOT putting any lubricant on the taper. Did a on line search and found some very nice detailed instructions on prop installs.
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Tim D
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 12:37pm |
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Start listening for noise from the damper plate, throwing one in reverse is a good way to mess it up.
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Tim D
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stang72
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 1:41pm |
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Brass nut...stainless cotter!
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M3Fan
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 2:18pm |
I'm sporting the nylock nut as well- another major bonus of the nylock is that you can snug it up as much as you need to, rather than trying to match up the castle nut to the cotter pin hole. |
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2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
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Luchog
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 2:37pm |
safetu wire??? |
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davidg
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Posted: June-30-2008 at 11:41pm |
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As far as I know, all inboards (or at least the older Correct Crafts) have a piece of stainless steel wire that goes through a hole in the top of the bolt holding the rudder on and also through a nearby clamp bolt. The wire keeps this critical nut from backing off. You should also find the same safety wire on the two bolts holding the shaft inside the transmission coupler. Keeps the bolts from backing out and allowing the shaft to back out.
Dave |
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The Dude
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Posted: July-01-2008 at 12:20am |
M3, how often do you have to snug it up? |
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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abolton
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Posted: July-01-2008 at 1:43am |
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[QUOTE=davidg] As far as I know, all inboards (or at least the older Correct Crafts) have a piece of stainless steel wire that goes through a hole in the top of the bolt holding the rudder on and also through a nearby clamp bolt. The wire keeps this critical nut from backing off. You should also find the same safety wire on the two bolts holding the shaft inside the transmission coupler. Keeps the bolts from backing out and allowing the shaft to back out.
I bet if that happened more than my prop would have sank to the bottom! I found a 13x13x1 thanks to all of you guy's... I am going to try to get it to me by this 4th of July weekend. Thanks for all your help and I'll hope this is all of my trouble. |
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ABE
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abolton
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Posted: July-03-2008 at 11:01pm |
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Ok, another question; I got the new prop on and the brass nylock nut, but nylock nut covers the cotter pin hole. The old prop must have been on with a castle nut. I like the nylock because you can snug it right up, do I need a cotter pin? Should I drill another hole behind the nylock nut for a cotter pin?
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ABE
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davidg wrote: