Prop key way is sheered |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Adam, I try to stress making a point that alignment starts at the strut. Many feel an alignment only entails the engine. Once the strut/shaft is aligned to the log, THEN the engine is aligned to it. |
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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ok thanks
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3620 |
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Maybe we should also ask how far off is he with his prop shaft as is? If it comes close as is maybe he just needs the engine adjusted. If his is way off like mine was you have no choice but to work on the strut.
I thought I had read that some Nautiques had far less than perfect alignment of the Log to the proper strut position? It has been two years since I had to do this so my memory could be off. Mine was so far off the prop would not rotate by hand if assembled, It bound up the shaft in the cutlass bearing. It did turn out perfect only due to great advice on this forum. Be patient do it right and you will be very happy with the results. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Ok I got my new cutlass bearing.
Questions: I am concerned that when I cut out the old one with a hacksaw blade that I may scrape the strut. Does this matter? ANy tips for pressing the new ones or is it straight forward with a threaded rod/nuts as you said? Don't lube or prep surface etc? If I adjust strut. Do the screws go into a threaded nut plate that is fiberglassed in or are there nuts somewhere on the backside that I have to get hold of? Do I cut the epoxy out around the strut before adjusting? What was the "hot wire" thing I heard about or can I do it with a blade. Is putting the epoxy back in something I put on the bottom of the strut or do more of a "bathroom caulk" style after it is in? Thanks for the help. i'm getting close and it's getting warm out so the pressure is on to get thsi done. |
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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You should do some searching here to get the basics figured out.
google "strut install site:correctcraftfan.com/forum" |
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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I believe I have in a way sufficient to not drop me in the bucket of "Annoying new guy who is too lazy do a basic search" I know those guys and I agree they are not being necessarily considerate.
Here is the specific context for my questions. In Pete's 101 video he instruct to remove the cutlas bearing by cutting it with a hack saw blade and the folding it in on itself. If I was in there I would have asked about how much caution I should take to not gouge the strut. It may not matter at all or maybe I should take great care to not cut through the bearing and try to pry it to split or something. This might add an hour to the job if I do and even going and buying a shim for the other side of the blade getting a new sharp blade etc. Just looking to minimize my newbie lessons learned mistakes. He described the strut adjustment and I also went through some other threads on adjusting etc. I learned that the 4200 epoxy is softer than the 5200. No one described exactly how to put it on. Do I put some where the screws go into the hull and under the strut or is that a huge mistake because I just made the strut unstable? I saw someone say "hot wire cut" is done with the 5200 and not the 4200. I can't find out what that is. and won't even do a search" I'll do more searching but I found everyone to be so helpful here and am eager to get the project done that I continued with the inquiry. I'll also on a personal note that It has been a great help to find a community to help me with this. It has taken it from a very frustrating new boat owner experience to a fun project with a big victory just around the corner. So thank you everyone for that. |
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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Haha, ok. I appreciate your concern.
The reason for the hot wire cut is because 5200 is harder to remove. Basically you're making a home made "hot knife through butter" kind of thing. 5200 is stickier than 4200, therefore I prefer the latter. I'm not sure the hardness is much different, if at all, or of any concern really. In either case rings around the mounting BOLT holes is sufficent and then a fillet around the base/hull edge would finish it off nicely. You might want to tape the tips of the threads so they don't get pooped up on the way through (if you happen to be generous with the adhesive). If some squeezes through while you tighten up the strut that is good sign. Too much though and the strut will be further off the hull, changing the alignment from before/after installation. There's plenty of meat on the strut don't worry about nicking it. I would cut towards the "web" where the most material is anyway. |
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JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5697 |
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And yes there are nuts on the back side of the bolts holding on the strut.. you should be able to reach them up under the gas tank .. definitely more fun of a job with a friend in the boat
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mbshaw88
Senior Member Joined: April-28-2013 Location: Chicago Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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I had those exact same questions the first time I did my alignment. Hollywood is right, I have a bookmarked Google search for this site only, I am in the middle of an engine rebuild so I say I enter a search like this 20-30 times a day. It is invaluable when it comes to working on these boats.
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4117 |
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If you do accidentally cut into the strut make sure to go in with a half round file or the like to remove any burrs before trying to press in the new one.
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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There is no cutting of epoxy and leave the bathroom caulk to the bathroom. No lube on the cutlass install either. Don't go overboard on the set screws, unless of course you want the next person to have to drill them out...
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Ok great input. I'll have at it!
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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DrCC
Grand Poobah Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
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And, put your new cutlass in the freezer.
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Nice touch. Thanks! |
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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In a ziplock bag labeled something like "penis collar" then let your wife find it.
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DrCC
Grand Poobah Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
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And, don't let the white stuff drip on your hair, wear a hat.
and have some rags for wiping-up with paint thinner (mineral spirits) not lacquer thinner. |
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Her only feedback would be on why I made it cold.
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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DrCC
Grand Poobah Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
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Freezing a cutlass will shrink it just slightly enough to make the installation much much easier.
I've spent years installing strut bearings via hydraulic press. The last two were via freezer trick. I will never install another one without freezing first. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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It's already frozen isn't it?
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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And the boating buddy of the year award goes to........ DayTony! I tried pressing in the cutlass bearing with a 3/8 threaded rod, did not work. Called Tony for some advice and he told me to come on over ( next town over) and he would have something I could take back home to press them in. He made this little beauty, a "Driveway Arbor Press". Thanks Tony.
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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DayTony
Gold Member Joined: June-30-2013 Location: Salem MA Status: Offline Points: 832 |
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Awesome, glad it worked for you.
I happened to find that threaded rod in my yard when i moved into my house 4 years ago, never found a use for it but i couldn't just throw it out. I'm sure glad i didn't, |
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1988 Barefoot nautique-454
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MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3620 |
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Nice install set up.
How is your alignment looking now? Hope it is near dead on. |
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Here is the update. Big victory this morning ( I hope) I put the strut back in. It did take two washers in teh back to get it centered top to bottom wen I did a dry fit. I had the coupling/shaft attached to the motor so it had the correct left to right when I did the final install.. Hopefully this leads to minimal motor adjustment later. I torqued (actually my wife did, she's awesome) the strut bolts to 50 ft lbs. I was underneath with the screwdriver. My only concern after is that I put a bead of 4200 around the edge of the mating surface of the strut. Did I just create a gasket between the hull and strut that will reduce the hard coupling of the strut to the hull to dampen vibration? God I hope not. I did put some on the base of the screw holes so it pressed up in there. I then put more on the outside bathroom caulking style. I'll align the motor tonight and see how it all turns out.
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3620 |
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When I pulled my strut off of my hull I noted the sealer 5200 or 4200 was under the strut gluing it to the hull. When I installed mine I did it the same way. I put a layer of 5200 on the hull and torqued the strut in place then wiped off all the excess. Hope I never have to take it off again. Could be very tough.
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Ok good to know
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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I can't believe I've already picked up two stars with just this thread. Talk about baptism by fire. So now that I'm at motor position adjustment. Up and down has those handy threaded blocks. left and right...not so much. Any tricks or tools that will help with breaking the frozen side to side? I have a 2 foot pry bar and a six foot. Their isn't an obvious super safe place to pry just some "hey it's my best shot" angles. Anybody found any other tools that work nicely? ball joint separator? hydraulic hand tool?
Thanks, |
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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4200 should be between the complete strut base and the hull.
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DrCC
Grand Poobah Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
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Side to side tools include: Your old prop shaft and a hammer.
I like the 2.5 lb hammer. |
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BaccoBouncer
Senior Member Joined: April-25-2016 Location: Essex MA Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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okie dokie
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'97 21' Sport Nautique
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